Daily Wire Tip Dec. 16: Crimp Beads & Bead Covers
Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
December 16, 2009
Question:
I am having a horrible time using crimp beads. I have tried just about everything. I have 2 crimping tools, I can get a good solid crimp using those but then it just looks HORRIBLE, even after I use the second part to round it. I have tried crimp bead covers but I just can’t get them on correctly. Any help would be great.
Answer:
I have to tell you that I do not bead at all! (Unless it is on 24g or larger wire that is.) But I just did an Internet search for ‘using crimp beads’ that turned up some great results, including links to videos on youtube! Give it a try and choose your own favorite sites to bookmark as the experts who ‘bead’ on a regular basis host them. (I am wire and rocks with occasional bead accents.)
Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong
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crimp beads, crimp beads covers, how to use crimp beads
Filed under:Daily Wire Jewelry Tips‚ Gemstones & Beads‚ Project Help‚ Technique Tips
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Holding the crimp with my nondominant hand, I lay the crimp in the first notch (larger one) and squeeze the pliers with my dominant hand. Moving to the second notch (smaller one), I place the crimp with the creased side up (I lay it on my nondominant index finger so I can see it well) and give a firm but not hard squeeze. If you squeeze too hard, it will over-flatten the crimp. You just want to fold it. Then use the very tip of the pliers (no notch) to give one final squeeze (firm, not hard) to secure the whole thing.
I have had the best luck with crimp covers when I lay the completed crimp into the cover with the open side up and use my bent nose pliers to close it, slowly, a little squeeze at a time. This allows me to slightly adjust the way the cover is closing.
Good luck!
Thanks for the help Vicki! I have had lots of folks tell me that I need to learn to bead – but it’s just not my thing. I appreciate your help with this question.
Dale/Cgr
Beadsmith sells a special pliers called a Magical Crimping Tool. Sharemycraft.com has a video that shows how it works pretty well, although I’m sure there are others.
There is a round hollow ground into each jaw. The basic premise is to swage a 2mm crimp tube onto beading wire, then rotate the tool & smush (technical term) it into shape ’til it won’t smush no more. It reshapes the tube into a round bead right on the wire. I think it looks a LOT better than just flattening a crimp with those hoopdi (another technical term), ordinary crimp pliers.
The .019″ size is the one to use with 2mm tubes and easily found online or a good bead store. A. C. Moore also has them, but whether the employees know how it’s done is anyone’s guess. It retails for about $13. Pretty good quality, too.
There are other sizes, but I’m told just the one will be just fine.
Word of warning. Use a good quality sterling or gold filled tube. The cheap ones will just disintegrate, although you could use them for practice, I suppose.
Happy Beading!
Another tip for getting nice looking crimps is to make sure you are using a crimp that isn’t too big or too small. You want to get all your wires through the bead or tube, but if it’s too big, you’ll have to squeeze down too hard to get a grip and you’ll just get a flattened mess of a crimp. If the crimp is too small, you won’t have enough room to get the “fold over” that makes it nice and round. This tip comes from experience. It’s a good idea to have several sizes of crimps on hand.
As a long time beader, woodcarver and NOW wire sculptor I can tell you for certain, Dale, that if it doesn’t really ring your chimes just don’t do it. LOL
You have to love it to do it well. We beaders are here to help answer any question that isn’t in your experience.
Casey, Thanks so much! I will look forward to your and other beaders input when it comes to ‘beading’ questions. Although I really admire the awesome work of my friends Tatiana Van Iten, Lana May and others, it’s really not for me. (Besides, my husband might panic if I got into something else and all of the lapidary equipment in my studio became dusty.)
Dale
I have been, (like the one who submitted a question about the crimping of beads on 12/16), having trouble for years with ugly looking mangled crimp beads. When Vicky refers to a “notch” I’m still not sure which area you are talking about. And you said put the crimp bead “UP” which depends on how you are holding the crimper at the timne. Is there a way you can show a diagram of the process? I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you so much for all the help you’ve given me.
Sincerely, Dean Andrews
Great info. I have a little problem with crimp beads so the info is appreciated. I don’t use them much so don’t get much practice. Thanks!
I LOVE CRIMP COVERS.I USE A LOT OF CRIMP BEADS IN MY WORK WITH DICHROIC, THAT I PUT CHANNELS INTO , SO I RUN SOFTFLEX AROUND THE GLASS IN THE CHANNEL AND USE THE CRIMPS TO TIGHTEN AROUND THE GLASS. TO FINISH THE LOOK I PUT CRIMP COVERS ON AND NOW I USE THE FRONT PART OF THE APPROPRIATE SIZE CRIMPING PLIERS TO CURVE THE COVER OVER THE CRIMP. IT TOOK A LOT OF TWEEKING ON MY PART TO GET A CLEAN LOOK, BUT NOW I USE COVERS TO HIDE WIRING THAT ISN’T QUITE PERFECT ON EARRINGS, ETC.
‘Magic Crimp Tool’ is a crimp plier that actually forms it into a round shape just like a bead. Works great! No affiliation just a happy customer who was also once frustrated about those horrible looking crimps!
That`s good information. Thank to all of you. Juan
I often crimp wire for my wife, who beads. I am mostly a wire and rock guy myself, though I use a lot of drilled stones in my work.
When crimping, I use standard crimping pliers. They have a slot that puts a groove in the bead, then another slot that rounds it. I want to try the Magic Crimpers; they sound a lot better. I often get ugly crimps!
It’s great to read all of the contributions! Crimping is a technique that improves with practice. Vicki (12/16,7:52) gives a very good technical description. As Cynthia (12/16 10:51)notes, plated crimp beads will not hold up as well as sterling or gold, but in my experience, even sterling silver will disintegrate if overworked (i.e., if you keep trying to round it out–it’s getting harder and more brittle as you put pressure on it.) A nice, clean crimp with standard crimping pliers will give you a rounded cylinder with a crease–or seam– on one side. It is possible to control which side of the wires you are crimping together that the seam will show on. BUt be patient with yourself and master one step at a time.
The “idea” of the magic crimpers is cool, but there are a lot of conditions to satisfy. These crimpers will turn a crimp bead into a sphere instead of a cylinder; however, for them to work at their best, they require specific gauges of wire, and specific sizes of crimp beads. You can purchase these crimpers in different sizes, too, if you want to spend the money AND keep track of which pliers you use with which size wire and which size crimp bead, and IF you have enough of the latter in your inventory. I have a pair or these crimpers that I’ve only used once for this very reason. If you try to use magic crimpers on a crimp bead that is too big, you’ll get…well, it’s not pretty!
Crimp bead covers are a lovely way to make a crimp “disappear” into a perfectly round bead with a barely discernable seam. Here, too, you must pay attention to the mm sizes you are working with. The catalogs I use will tell which size crimp bead the cover will fit. So far I’ve found that standard crimp pliers will work on different size crimp beads as well as different size crimp bead covers.
Perseverance pays! Don’t let crimps cramp your style!
Wow Marcia! Thanks so very much for all of your great comments and advice regarding ‘crimping’.
Dale/Cgr
Thank you so much for all of your help with this crimping problem, I ‘ve beaded in the beginning of making jewelry, and then was very inspired to take it to a higher level, not that beading is a lower level, because I have seen some of the most awesome pieces, just me wanting to find my nitch, I call it the (DCL)Dale Cougar Level, I am not quite where I want to be at Dale’s level, but I am patient. I can’t afford the classes just yet, but I do buy the DVDs. Once again thanks for your help, and keep on Making Jewels.
Thanks for bringing this challenge up again, Gigi. And many, Many thanks to all of my beading friends for coming to the rescue!
Dale/Cgr
I don’t see it mentioned in the responses, but if it is, I apologize. I am an advocate of using the correct tool for the correct job. Therefore, first and foremost, start by using a beaders crimping tool. It will make all the difference in the world.
I’m not a beader, but I use lots of crimps with some of my chain maille creations. There are two steps to crimping a crimp. The crimpers I use have two “holes” when closed. The back “hole” has a little “tooth” or notch in it – that’s your first stop when crimping. I have found that if you lay the incoming and outgoing bead wire side by side and flat, you’ll be more successful. Lay the crimp and wire in the back “hole” and squeeze. The “tooth” leaves a little notch in the crimp bead. Now turn the crimp and bead wire 90 degrees (a quarter of a turn) and put it in the front hole and squeeze gently to fold over the crimp and round it out.
I agree – use good crimp beads. Another lesson learned – make sure you have the right size crimper. When I first started using one, I used on for a 3mm bead (I had not clue there were different sizes) on a 2mm bead. Guess what? It kept rounding on my and not securing!
Celeste, thanks so much! Your directions read like sound information to me. (Folks, Celeste is an amazing fellow instructor, of chain maille and beading. If I were having issues with this ‘crimping’ method, I would definitely try her directions.)
Number one rule with crimp beads – use sterling! I used to have the world’s worst problems with crimp beads – nothing ever went right – they didn’t fold properly, they wouldn’t bend, and if they did bend, they broke. It was very fustrating to me. I was at a bead show talking to one of the vendors about it and he told me to use sterling crimps. And you know what? Everything worked perfectly after that. I found out that it was not me, but the crimps themselves. Do yourself a favor and use them. All of the above messages give you the correct technique but without using the sterling crimp beads it will not work proberly for you.
Depending on the style and size of crimp bead and wire I am using, there are 2 crimping pliers I use…The Micro Crimper Pliers work for most of my wire crimping designs…You do have to pay attention to the grooves you are using, making sure to crimp in the 1st hole, then angle the crimp bead into the back hole to finish the crimp for a rounded finish…I also have the Magic Crimpers and love them…It takes so me getting used to but try practicing on little leftover wire pieces and plated crimp beads, you’ll get the hang of it…I do agree that if you making jewelry for gifts or sale, use only Sterling or Gold crimp beads…Use the smallest size crimp beads to fit the wire tightly…I have used crimp bead covers but feel it’s a unnecessary added expense to my findings…I only use the crimp bead covers for my custom designs, it adds a finishing touch that really makes a big difference when I am selling my designs…I sell a great number of one of a kind pieces at my Comedy shows…T Shirt for the guys and jewelry for the ladies…I have some nice men’s designs that sell well…Like all jewelry making techniques, practice, practice, practice…And be patient…Crimping gets easier with time…
Also make sure that the beading wires are side-by-side inside the crimp bead, not folded over each other. You get the best crimp when you go up inside the bead and come straight back down side-by-side. Then when you use your crimp tool, make sure the “notch” in the back jaw goes BETWEEN the wires. That will ensure that when you fold the crimp with the front jaws the wire will not “roll” and cause the tube to open back up.
Hi, I’m surprised no one suggested just using flat-nose plyers to squeeze the crimp flat. My good friend, who has been designing/making jewelry for 30 years uses this method along w/many other beaders. The crimping tool and the 2-step process is not necessary. We use the “just squeeze flat” method and have been quite successful w/it. Of course, crimp covers always make for a better “finished” look. Hope this helps.
I started doing bead work last year and learned a lot on line. On-line, many places have videos to show how to use crimp beads and crimp tools. Since then, I found wire-sculpture on line and I bought the small business course. I have learned a lot since last July. I also bought Your book, Dale and I have made almost all of the projects in it. I am having a ball learning wire sculpture and I see no end in sight. Debby in Arizona
I do use crimp beads and crimp covers, and have relied on web info and classes, but only use them on less expensive items. I have started using bead tips. They look like little clam shells. There is a hole on one end–slide your wire(s) through and tie a knot, then touch it with a bit of glue and clip off the ends. Then gently close the clam with your flat nose pliers. The other end has a little scroll that you can open and insert your clasp, then close the scroll..again, gently! Gives a very professional look.
Even with perfectly executed crimps, I was never happy with the visual of a finished piece, until I discovered crimp covers! I highly recommend them for the perfect finished look.
All great suggestions for the proper use of crimp beads and covers, however, one trick I use to make sure that the cover stay secure is to put the littlest dab of glue on the crimp before you place the cover on it. Crimp covers can be very uncooperative, but a bit of glue will help hold them in place before they are closed…and, you can use the front of your crimping pliers to give them a nice, round finish.
And yes, practice makes perfect! Good luck.
When I first started using crimp beads my wire would slip out (and my beads would fly everywhere) because I wasn’t flattening the crimp bead enough to grip the wire. Now when I do the first crimp I also flatten the crimp bead with my chain nose pliers, pull on the wire to be sure it is gripped tightly with the crimp, then I finish the crimp in the larger hole of the crimp tool to round it nicely. I have not lost any beads since doing this extra secure step.
I use a lot of crimp beads in my work, and I do love the way crimp covers make them “disappear” into the design. But like everybody else, I had problems with crimps, especially with cheaper crimps that bend and fall apart. I have found – much like everything else we do – by trial and error, that the better more expensive crimps and covers work much better. Gold filled and sterling silver have proven to make more perfect looking crimps the first time, so that I don’t have to keep trying to get the shape right till it breaks.
I use the crimping tool to do the 2-step process because I have had beads fly everywhere after just flattening the crimps. I just don’t trust that method any more, even though I know it has been succussful for many people.
Hope this helps.
I find it easier to work with crimp tubes rather than crimp beads–they are slightly longer and therefore give you more coverage area over the wires. I expect the problem you are having is due to using a crimp tube or bead that is too large for the wire you are stringing with. It is absolutely essential that the crimp beads or tubes be sized correctly for the wire you are using. You should be able to find which size of crimp tube/bead by reading the label on your wire. Surprisingly, most of the craft stores do not carry the correct crimp tubes/beads to match the wire. You may have to look several places to match up correctly
The crimp covers just need practice to use correctly. They may be sized to suit the look you want–as long as they are larger than your crimp bead. I try to leave just enough wire past my crimp bead so that the crimp cover fills the space attractively and there is little or no wire showing. I use the flat tips of my crimping pliers to put pressure along the front of the crimp cover. Before the cover is completely closed, stop and evaluate whether you need a little pressure from the side or top or bottom of the cover to make the edges meet smoothly. Take your time and use gentle pressure–you will finish with a rounded crimp cover that accents your jewelry attractively.
I’ve never been happy using crimp beads.don’t like the look of flattened bead and rarely stay in place.i see others use crimp covers on too of them but why use the added expense? Just use crimp tubes.they always work and have small to large ones.i only use crimp covers to make a nice finished look as I’d its a bead.
Hi, I had problems with closing crimps also. I came up with a way – not using the crimp tool. I asure first that the in/out wires are in the right place, then I use the split ring opener to place the bend in the crimp – can’t press too hard, as it will cut the crimp. But, after you place the bend in the center of the crimp, (Tight enough to hold wire in place.) use your flat nose plier to tighten it. Hope this gives you another idea of how to use the crimp. Can’t say this will work for everyone, but, it does work for me. Remember those tools are out there for you to use – in what ever maner you deem necessary. What works for you??
I do some crimping: I purchase snake chain in bulk (I honestly haven’t seen a lot of factory work that will hold as well as my work but I have arrived at this through much trial and error). I do wirework–just for a few years. I’ve been into metal-smithing for a long time. Furthermore, I do beading, but only in Native American products (in finer products I do use sterling or 14 k beading wire for strength), but I use the traditional sinew as I do all other pieces in the traditional fashion.
That said (meaning I’m not a “beader”) I have to make my crimps very strong. I have a three-step method. First, use the same metal as your wire. I’ve already seen sterling tubes recommended. Avoid beads–you’ll have a squishy mess much of the time. They are good to keep on hand when you don’t have room for the longer tube. Those who say to get the right size crimp tube are spot on! The crimp beads are okay, but I have yet to find any in fine metals that work well. If I can hold a magnet to something, it does not go on my jewelry. Unfortunately, the cheaper ones seem to close better and not dent.
I first take a tiny spot of E6000 on the end of a scrap piece of 26 gauge wire and run it around the inside of the bead. I know it seems like brain surgery, but I’ve never had one of these come loose (knock on wood). Then I crimp. I saw that someone uses a method bending it slightly first, then crimping, then finishing. In silver-smithing, I learned that the rule of thumb is that a piece of silver cannot take more than four bends. Two bends are plenty–you must account for wear and tear. Crimp slowly (and do ensure wires are not crossed–that is an instant failure). Squeeze to secure the wire but don’t mash your crimp! Then, once it’s secure (check and crimp a bit more if necessary but it’s better to work slowly) then do a quarter turn (so the side with the crease is toward you) and move up to the rounded part of the crimpers. Squeeze GENTLY. Again, you can squeeze a bit more if necessary but if you mash it, you’re done–start over. The glue is especially helpful with the beading wire and snake chain as they are porous. If a bit oozes out, let it dry for a couple of minutes and pick out any extra bits. I use the same method for crimping tubes with ends. I’ve even had success, with E-6000 and letting it set 72 hours, of using glue and not crimping (this is for two ends into a tube with an end–tight fit (for earrings, as an example. I use binder clips as a vise–perfect amount of pressure. As a last ditch method to save the day, I’ll grab a little piece of EZ Solder and do what I have to do (on top of a loosened crimp).
Dale, I don’t blame you one bit for not beading. The only beading I really like to do is that which my ancestors did. Sinew lasts forever (I have some very old pieces that are holding well–and I mean older than Columbus . . .!)
The only time crimping gives me fits is with beading wire. When I use the proper materials (proper size tubes, proper size crimpers, and that little spot of backup glue for my own peace of mind), a good snake chain can be a lot of fun to work with. I have a cool opera-length piece made of large (very) beads with some small semi-precious beads in between and a bit of Swarovski for bling. I’ve wired a few of the large beads for interest. I used snake chain and a LOT of crimps with holes on one end. I haven’t put it up for sale yet–I’m still keeping an eye on it to see if it withstands my crimps (I do warranty my work but I haven’t had a piece fall apart yet and this is an experiment). I’m amazed that I’ve tugged on it and it’s still holding! Good luck, crimpers! Just practice and don’t let it faze you. Embrace it!
Hello Serene Doe, I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to explain, in such wonderful detail, your methods for these seemingly little challenges that plague a lot of our readers. I really appreciate your time!!
Thank you, Dale, for all the help you’ve given me–and all of us. Your instructing techniques are fabulous–you teach the techniques and we can take it from there (and make a piece of jewelry in the process. You turned me into a wire nut.
I am no expert in crimping. I was just mentioning what works for me–and I have that necklace with about 40+ crimps in the snake chain with heavy stones and it’s still holding strong!
In fact, I should have proofread my comment because I mention putting glue inside the “bead” when I mean the “tube” because I think beads should be avoided. I wanted to point that out!
Thanks again!
Hi
I have been making jewelry for many years and recently started to use crimp beads. Every bracelet or necklace I make looks great but after several times of wearing them, they break off. The crimp bead (2mm) does not seem to keep it together. I have closed most of them very tight (pull on them several times and they do not break off). Any suggestions? Thanks!
Depending on the weight of the necklace or bracelet you are working on, Tiffany – maybe try a larger crimp bead and do not crimp them so they damage the cord.