How is wire gauged? Since 1857, the United States has been using a standard system in measuring the diameter of wire. This system is known as American Wire Gauge (AWG), or the Brown & Sharp (B&S) gauge, and was invented by J.R. Brown. A customary wire gauge is circular or rectangular in shape with grooves along the outside. The size of the grooves represents the diameter of the wire. The higher the gauge number, the smaller the diameter and finer the wire. The lower the gauge number, the bigger the diameter and thicker the wire. When wire is manufactured, thick wire is progressively stretched to thinner and thinner wire, until the desired gauge is achieved. This process is recognized as wire drawing or die casting. The wire is pulled through one or more drawing dies (a metal mold consisting of larger to smaller holes) to acquire a number gauge. The wire gauge measurement refers to the number of dies that the wire had to be pulled through to achieve the specific diameter. In other words, higher gauge wires are pulled through more dies than the lower gauge wires.

AWG measurements can be found from a 000000 gauge, which is ¬about a half an inch in diameter, down to a 40 gauge, which is equivalent to 0.00314 inches or .07986 millimeters in diameter. Typical telephone wire is 22, 24, or 26 gauge, household wiring is 12 or 14, and electronic wiring is commonly a 20 gauge. In the AWG system, when the measurement of the gauge decreases by six, the diameter of the wire doubles. For instance, a 24 gauge wire is about .02” in diameter, an 18 gauge wire is about .04” in diameter, and a 12 gauge wire is about .08” in diameter.

Note: Great Britain and Canada do not use the AWG; they use what is known as the Imperial or British Standard Wire Gauge (SWG or BSG). Under the SWG system, the thickest wire is 7/0 gauge, which is about 12.7mm and the thinnest is 50 gauge, which is equivalent to 25 µm. Just to give an example of the difference between AWG and SWG, wire gauged at 1 in AWG has a diameter of 0.28997 inches; in SWG its diameter is 0.3 inches.”

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Many of you jewelry makers may be concerned about the price of gold, especially in the current economy, because it directly has an effect on your business or favorite hobby. The purpose of this article is to review the basics of fluctuating gold prices so that you can be prepared for an unforeseen soar or plunge.

Before 1900, the U.S. relied on a bimetallic standard. Under this system, a certain amount of gold and a certain amount of silver were equivalent to one dollar. In 1900, the U.S. moved to a gold standard. Under the gold standard, certain amounts gold, and not silver, were equal to the dollar. This monetary system caused the price of gold to remain relatively stable, although problems prevailed. In 1975, the U.S. began to float the dollar, adopting the fiat standard, respecting both the value of gold and foreign currency. This standard, which is still in place today, allows for more fluctuation in the price of gold.

Although the price of gold is subject to change, the value remains the same because the price fluctuates mostly due to the condition of the dollar. The price of gold typically reflects the U.S. economy. During inflation or a crisis, gold prices are high; the opposite is true when the economy is thriving. Gold prices also indicate the value of the dollar. On average, whenever the value of the dollar is low, gold prices are high; when the dollar is high, gold prices decrease.

Presently, the United States economy is definitely facing its challenges. And the fluctuation in gold prices has shown just that. In just 18 hours, gold prices went up $75 dollars in March of 2009. Some experts predict that gold prices will reach $1,500 an ounce by the end of 2009, though others beg to differ.

So how does today’s economy affect the jewelry maker? As the economy worsens, and gold prices rise, supply prices are also rising. Gold wire and findings will be more expensive to purchase than in the past. This may result in higher purchasing prices for the designer’s consumers.

On an upbeat note, there are many companies that are offering great bargains for their customers, even in the jewelry-making industry. One such company, wire-sculpture.com, offers a 25% discount after becoming a gold club member. This is a great way to save on gold wire, findings, and chain! Another alternative to the high gold prices could be to consider using more sterling silver and copper. This option may keep the tag price down, resulting in happier customers.

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Did you know that both the modern and traditional birthstone for the month of April is the diamond?  “April-ers” are the only ones that have the lucky privilege of receiving the “King of Gems” as a birthstone.  Additionally, diamonds are valued extremely high and its demand is ongoing.  Today, the diamond is viewed as a symbol of love, courtship, and marriage, and is the most widely purchased engagement ring.

Faceted diamond prices vary, and are valued according to four main determining factors (known as the 4 c’s): color, clarity, cut, and carat.  Diamonds can be found in many colors, although the white or colorless is most popular.  Other natural colors include yellow, orange, brown/cognac, pink, light green, lavender, deep blue, and dark green.  The deep blue and green are the rarest and most expensive of the colors.

Over half of all the world’s diamond production and distribution is controlled by a cartel known as “De Beers.”  Although white diamonds unquestionably remain as the most notable gemstone in the jewelry industry, they are not in actuality “rare”.  Diamonds are mined on a massive scale, but the distribution by the cartel is controlled in a limited manner in order to keep the price of the diamond high. Because of the high cost and appeal of diamonds, many imitations are available on the market.  The cubic Zirconia, Zircon, YAG, Moissanite, and Fabulie are commonly used as such imitations.

The diamond is a 10, according to the Moh’s hardness scale, and is the hardest mineral on Earth.  Major sources can be found in South Africa, Zaire, Russia, Canada, Nambia, Botswana, Australia, and Angola.

The more famous diamonds include the Dresden, Hope, Cullinan I (or Star of Africa), Cullinan IV, Nassak, Tiffany, Sancy, Florentine, and the Shah diamond.

Interesting facts:
•    Over 250 tons of rock is blasted for every finished diamond carat

•    Folklore/Metaphysical properties:  The diamond is considered a stone of innocence and promotes purity.  The diamond is also known to enhance trust and loyalty in relationships.  In ancient times, it was used to guard against cowardice.

Click Here to learn other interesting facts about common jewelry making gemstones!

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Don’t be Fooled!
COMMON GEMSTONE MISCONCEPTIONS

There are many misconceptions in the world of gemstones.  This is partially due to dishonesty, uninformed customers or sales representatives, and contradicting information.   Often times, one may purchase what they think is a natural gemstone, but is in actuality, man-made or dyed to appear like a certain mineral.  If ever in doubt, ask–or do a bit of your own research.  The following examples are only a few misconceptions that can be found within the jewelry market:

•    Cherry Quartz:  Cherry quartz is quite lovely and is well-liked by the fashionable and trendy jewelry designers and consumers.  However, many confuse Cherry Quartz as naturally occurring.  Cherry Quartz is not quartz at all; it is glass.  The faceted and polished glass contains red and pink inclusions to make it appear as a quartz variety.  Even so, just because it is glass doesn’t mean it’s not beautiful!

•    Black Onyx:  Black Onyx is another popular stone used for jewelry making.  While the natural occurring onyx has a black base layer and white top layer, “black onyx” is a term used to describe a one-colored chalcedony and is always dyed.

•    Flower Sugilite:  Flower Sugilite is a stunning purple stone in its true form.  Yet, it is not a “sugilite” variety.  Flower Sugilite is another common name for lepidolite.

•    Zircon vs. Zirconia:  Avoid the confusion of the difference between zircon and cubic zirconia, because they are different!  Zircon is zirconium silicate and Cubic Zirconia is zirconium dioxide.  Both can be mistaken for a diamond, as they are used to imitate the precious gem.

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Finally – some brand new, unique jewelry making patterns! And the best thing is that they are available to EVERYONE for FREE!

We are pleased to announce that the winning designs of the jewelry making contest are now available for your use! You can access the free jewelry pendant patterns by clicking on the link “2009 Pendant Contest Winners” and then by selecting which piece you would like to view.

This year’s challenge was themed on pendant making for the amateur, intermediate, and professional wire-sculptor.  All entries were based on four criteria:  Originality, Skill-Level, Creativity, and Detailed Instructions.  There was a tremendous response and we received a great deal of skilled, stunning, and artistic entries.  Thank you all who entered!

Again, allow us to mention our grand-prize winner, Joe Rushing, who won $500 for his pendant entry!  Joe created a lovely piece, using gold-filled wire that was wrapped around a mahogany obsidian ladder pendant.  He also used the coiling gizmo for this project and, as a result, created a unique wire- dangling look that compliments the pendant.  These “danglers” can also be used to construct a matching pair of earrings.

Indeed, you will be impressed with the end-product of the award-winning designs and you can obtain ALL of these patterns for free by clicking on the Contest Winners link.  Each pattern consists of a materials list, step-by-step instructions, and detailed pictures, complete for your utilization.  Enjoy!

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