by Rose Marion, Wire-Sculpture.com

Wire Jewelry Idea for
November 30, 2011

Some time ago, Casey Willson left a comment on this popular tip of the day, Prevent Tarnish on Copper and Nickel Silver, mentioning she had a great method for preserving copper wire’s shine, using a generic of Mop N Glo, called Mop N Shine. It wasn’t long before we were flooded with requests for Casey’s secret method!

Casey was gracious enough to share her method with us. While I personally haven’t tried it yet, Casey’s spent the last 9 years developing and perfecting this method. I hope it helps you find a good method of protecting your base metal wire jewelry, too!

Please test this method on scrap wire and spare beads before using this method on your finished jewelry. We cannot guarantee results will be the same for everyone.

Protective Coating for Wire and Base Metal Findings

by P. Casey Willson

Set up items needed:

• Product: Mop N Shine (generic form of Mop N Glow floor polish)
• Newspaper
• Viva paper towels (or other good quality)
• Tray or flat cardboard (optional)
• Long tweezers, crochet hook or old (clean) pliers
• Air tight container
• Water and disposable rag for clean up
• Cotton swabs for cleaning off gems while product is wet.
• Ammonia for cleaning up dried spots on work area.

Advisory:

1. DO NOT get this product on good gemstones or cabochons as it will dry blotchy on polished stones. Treat wire or findings ahead of time or with small paint brush to touch up after finishing item or on high wear spots such as bails or pin backs.
2. Be sure wire is very clean with no tarnish (patina is just fine if you want to keep it!) or dirt at all. This coating is very hard and difficult to remove when cured.
3. Be aware you are working with a polymer and the feel of the wire will be a bit slick. Be sure to include the polymer in your item description. I think it’s a plus, as it prevents tarnish and also reduces allergic reactions to everything except rare allergies to plastic.
4. DO NOT dip spring clasps; paint the outside instead. Dipping can lock up the spring mechanism.

Procedure

Pour at least 1″ of dip into your air tight container. I prefer a 6″ to 8″ by 3″ oblong container or 3′ to 6″ large round one that will hold at least 2″ of dip with a 2″ clearance above the liquid level for safety. With these sizes you can dip a coil of wire without any bends being created.

Place wires or findings in dip without splashing. It can be removed immediately with fingers if you prefer but better with long tweezers, a crochet hook or old pliers. The dip WILL freeze the joint of the pliers if you allow it to dry in the joint so hold them nose down and dry them nose down.

Let excess drip off then lightly drop on newspaper and paper towel lined tray. Stretch your wire coil (or separate multiple findings) so the dip does not dry on two connected items. You want to avoid rough spots this may create. We’re after a smooth, thin coating. Curing time is short. Generic brands cure faster. Allow at least ten minutes for hard curing.

If item being dipped (such as a base metal cab setting) has “holes” or filigree, be sure to lightly blow through the holes to prevent a film from forming.

If dipping a finished base metal piece or chain hang from a pin or hook above your absorbent pad to let any excess drip off. Chains will be a little bit stiff but just run them through your fingers when dry and they will be fine. We work with wire so any of us can make a stand from which to hang these pieces from stiff wire (coil the base, then make an arched rise with a hook on the end).

Touch up (with small paint brush) any places where pliers may have broken through dip coating while you were working with it.

Notes and Cautions

I will also dip inexpensive porous cabochons that I use in practice pieces. It works as a hardener for soft stones such as chalk turquoise and as a color fixer for dyed stone. DO NOT use on highly- polished hard stones or beads!

DO NOT use on any thread if you use thread in your work. It will make the thread brittle so it breaks. DO NOT use on leather. DO use as a sealer on acrylic painted items.

Double-dipping high wear items is a good thing. Be sure coating is cured between dippings.

Always test materials other than wire before using dip.

Product cleans up easily with water when wet. Tools like paint brushes or crochet hooks should be kept in water between uses, then dried when you finish. Avoid shaking wet items excessively as droplets may get on work surfaces and any nearby carpet or even on your clothing, then be missed.

Please practice methods before using on important pieces!!!!

I’ve developed this method over about 9 years of jewelry making in various styles and it has worked for me quite well. I love the fact that with this dip I can wear base metal ear wires! When I make copper or brass earrings I want the findings to match!

I kept this as my “secret process” for almost six years. Now I’m sharing it freely with hopes that you all benefit.

Credits: In “The Art of Painting on Rocks” by Lin Wellford this material was suggested as a paint protective coating. I took the idea further. My thanks to Lin.

P. Casey Willson

Wire-Sculpture does not guarantee any results from this method, and is not liable for any damage caused by this method. Please be sure to test this method and become familiar with it before transferring it to any finished jewelry pieces.

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 28, 2011

Question:

Dale, thank you for all of your daily tips; I read every one of them and have learned so much! I particularly like the articles on gem-rocks.

Recently, I obtained a quantity of different sizes and shapes of crystals from an old crystal chandelier. They are absolutely beautiful, but, besides years of dirt accumulation from being stored incorrectly, they are covered with a rust residue from the wires. Once cleaned, they will make beautiful wire projects, but I need help on the proper way to clean them. What do you suggest?

-Joyce in Port Charlotte, Florida

Answer:

Hey Joyce, what a wonderful dilemma! The crystals from old chandeliers do make lovely jewelry statements. Please keep in mind that the solution I am going to tell you about is only for the crystals (for those of you who wish to clean an entire chandelier, this is not for the metal parts!) This also works on diamond rings!

Make a solution of equal parts of ammonia and warm water and add a drop or two of blue Dawn dish detergent. Soak the crystals in the mixture for a bit and then use a soft toothbrush and a rag to remove the heavy grime. Rinse them in clear warm water and let them air dry. Done! Yes, I know that there are many different types of crystals, such as Turkish, Italian, Egyptian, Chinese, and Swarovski®, however the above solution is safe on all of them.

Several years ago, a very dear friend sent me a box of crystals from chandeliers that once hung in the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York. I came across them and even though I know she meant for me to make jewelry with them, I couldn’t leave them in their box any longer, so I use a heavy brass hanger and electrical pliers to make this sun catcher that I now enjoy in my studio window. Yes, it was difficult to photograph without taking down, and yes, I have also made earrings using a similar design and (much smaller) crystal beads.

Chandelier Crystals cleaned and wire wrapped, then hung from pieces of a wire hanger, by Dale Armstrong

However you decide to use your special crystal components, Joyce, I hope you enjoy them for many years!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 15, 2011

Question:

Can I oxidize a sterling silver necklace that has Swarovski® crystals and colored Czech glass? I think the crystals can go into the liver of sulfur, but I’m not sure about orange-colored Czech glass. Thank you.

-Angela in Keller, Texas

Answer:

Really Angela, because different companies in different countries use such a wide variety of processes for coloring their beads, including special inner and outer coatings, I would experiment first.

Try making a simple looped component with the beads in question and dip it in the liver of sulfur. Log your results and then process your finished designs if you like the results.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
August 30, 2011

Question:

I read a while back on one of your answers to a question about a spray polish that you can use on organic materials. Could you tell me what that was? I can’t seem to find it anymore and I forgot what brand it was. Thanks. Oh, and I love your website and have learned so much about wire wrapping from Dale. Have a great day.

-JoAnn in Lee’s Summit, Missouri

Answer:

No problem JoAnn, we get a lot of questions about how to prevent tarnish on metals as well as preservatives for organic items. The best product for both jobs is the same, Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Spray Protectant, which is available at many craft and home improvement stores.

Here are several of the uses we’ve discussed regarding Krylon’s Spray Protectant. (You can find these articles by searching "spray", "acrylic", or "Krylon" in the search box on the left side of the blog):

• Anodized Aluminum and Chipping: Protect colored metal with a coat of Krylon Crystal Clear Spray.
• Seashell Jewelry with an Underwater Finish: Keep sea shells bright and protected with this acrylic spray.
• Rock Tumbling 101: Give slabs a nice glossy finish while polishing your stones.
• And on Krylon’s own site, a helpful page about how to spray safely: Krylon’s Spraying Safe Tips.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip

Question:

I use a lot of copper wire and like the look of high shine on some of my hammered heavy-gauge pieces. I use steel wool and it almost glows. However, the color and shine doesn’t stay on it, even if put away and sealed. Suggestions? Is the only answer a type of coating on it? Thanks.

-Kathleen in Chattanooga, Tennessee

Answer:

Hi Kathleen, ah the challenges of working in base metals. These include the temper and the dreaded tarnish! Yes, copper is pretty when it is clean-pink and shiny. BUT, the nature of this metal is to oxidize and there is NO permanent solution! All possible coatings or treatments are only temporary. Depending on the atmosphere and the amount and type of contaminants in the area, copper will turn all kinds of colors, especially green.

Do you remember when the Statue of Liberty was cleaned for her 100th birthday? A solution of baking soda and water is all that was used! The salt and acids in a human’s skin can cause all types of havoc with many metals, especially copper and brass. We have a new article that I would like to direct your attention to. Found on the Resource Center page under the heading "Caring for your Jewelry", Mary Bailey talks about copper and brass jewelry wire, including how to clean it in "How to Clean Copper and Brass Jewelry Wire."

My advice to you and all of my fellow wire jewelry friends is to "work with the metal"! When you use a wire that you know is going to tarnish in some way, use that feature to its advantage. Design pieces that resemble steampunk, vintage or renaissance styles and embrace the fact that those pieces will constantly change according to whomever wears them in whatever environment they are in.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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