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How to Clean Copper and Brass Jewelry Wire

By Mary W. Bailey

In these economic times, we as artists and jewelers are faced with the shock of the price increases in precious metals. Silver and gold prices have skyrocketed and we are finding ourselves faced with rethinking just what metals we are going to be using to create with.

Both copper and brass jewelry wire are available to us in a variety of gauges and shapes. Brass gives an illusion of being gold-like with its yellowish-red color, but it is actually a blend of copper and zinc (having roughly 67% copper and 33% zinc in its makeup). Sometimes small amounts of other metals are added in the blend but the majority of brass is as stated above. Jewelry brass is usually the 230 alloy, otherwise known as rich low brass.

Please be aware that working with brass wire is harder on your hands as it will not bend and flow as easily as when compared to silver and/or gold-filled wire. So take your time and work it slowly until you get the feel of the metal.

Keeping your brass and copper items clean and shiny will take a bit more work than normal. There are a variety of ways to do so, from simple home recipes to buying commercially manufactured products. The one thing you do have to keep in mind is the difference between acidic and caustic compounds for cleaning brass. We will cover a few different ways to clean these metals.

Please note that these are just some techniques to try and before using any of them take into consideration the beads or gemstones, etc. you have used in making your jewelry piece. We are not endorsing any one way or method, merely providing you with information for your use regarding cleaning techniques that we are aware of, and none of these cleaning methods will prevent tarnish. If there is a product or method listed that we do personally use, we will note it as such.

Natural Methods:

Lemon Juice: To clean brass or copper with lemon juice, you can either use it neat (straight), or mixed with vinegar and/or baking soda.

  • Mix up a couple of teaspoons of lemon juice with a couple of teaspoons of vinegar.
  • Add just enough baking soda to make it become a gritty paste.
  • Use this with a cloth to scrub your brass or copper items.
  • Rinse with lukewarm water and dry with a clean cloth.

Ketchup or Worcestershire Sauce: Who would have thought this would work?  Ketchup and Worcestershire sauce both have the ability to remove dirt well due to the acidic nature of both items.

  • First try rubbing the sauce onto your item with a soft cloth.
  • If this doesn’t remove the dirt very well, coat the item in sauce and leave it to sit for a minute or two.
  • Rinse with lukewarm water and dry with a clean cloth.

Vinegar & Steel Wool: Noted as one of the simpler methods available for cleaning brass. Grab some vinegar, pour it on or soak your item in it for a minute or two, then just use steel wool to remove the tarnish. (Personally, I think if using this method I’d use a q-tip dipped in vinegar or a soft cloth with some vinegar on it, since most of the cleaning action comes from the acidity of the vinegar rather than from the physical scrubbing with the steel wool.)

  • Use a fine grade of steel wool (If it is numbered, lower 0s are a minimum grade as opposed to a higher grade with more 0s).
  • Watch your item if you do immerse it entirely into the vinegar: some items will discolor in the vinegar, and you will need to buy a commercial polish to remove the discoloration.
  • Some people use apple cider vinegar, while others say red wine vinegar is better than white wine.  Which works best for you will depend on your own choices.

Toothpaste: Toothpaste is a gentle abrasive. Use the opaque toothpastes rather than the clear varieties, as the opaque ones are more likely to contain the necessary, mild abrasive (while the others are more focused on killing bacteria and freshening breath).

Be aware that this method will probably not be as effective as any other method because the toothpaste is an alkaline and not acidic as the others mentioned above. Most of the results will be obtained by all the scrubbing you do with the brush.

Ready To Use Solutions:

If you are going to use a ready-to-use solution, follow the golden rule and read the label. This is for your own safety and for the preservation of your brass items.

Brasso: An old favorite that I remember well from having to clean large brass trays my mother had purchased while we were stationed in Taiwan. Follow the directions on the can. Basically you need to soak a cloth in Brasso then rub the tarnish off the brass. Wear gloves to do so and then buff with a clean soft cloth.

Nevr Dull: Yep, spelled strangely but it does clean brass. Comes with pre-soaked wadding in the can and you pull off a piece and start rubbing. Both Dale and I have used this product with good results. Be sure to wear gloves just to keep the product from drying out your skin, and use it in a well-ventilated area.

Tarn-X-Brass: Another liquid cleaner that attacks light tarnish. Be sure it says Brass as there are two types of Tarn-X. (FYI, we do not recommend using the silver version at all!!)

Easy Cleaning of both Copper and Brass: An ionic cleaner such as the Speed Brite works well on both copper and brass jewelry items and with no harm to gemstones or beads. If the piece doesn’t clean immediately with the regular clip and dip method, use a soft toothbrush under running water afterwards, to assist the process.

Be sure and properly store your finished pieces in a zip loc bag to help reduce tarnishing.

 

Wire-Sculpture Faculty member Mary Bailey is a regular contributor of patterns and articles. You can read more about Mary, a renowned scrimshaw artist, in her Faculty Profile.

Daily Wire Tip July 14: What Stones Can Be Tumbled?

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 14, 2011

Question:

I’ve tried several sites for this question, and can’t get a straight answer, just generalities. I have a tumbler, wet, and I need to know what I cannot put in it. I know shell and pearl are out, but I also know there are others that can’t be tumbled, can you tell us please.

By the way, I’m getting an ionic cleaner, and it doesn’t specify if it cleans brass and copper just gold and silver. Will it clean oxidation off any metal? Thank you so very much.

-Linda in Sherman, Texas

Answer:

Hi Linda, I would like to try to make this easier for you to figure out. When you think about putting certain stones into a tumbler, take the hardness into consideration. For example, how well do you think a stone like natural turquoise (Mohs hardness of about 4) would hold up while being tumbled around in water and steel shot before it would deteriorate? (You can find the hardness of about any stone regularly used in jewelry making by typing its name into the search box of Wikipedia).

I can tell you specifically not to put the following stones into a tumbler without experimentation on a bead or small sample first: malachite, azurite, turquoise, opal, pearl, or fluorite. Now think about the shape of a bead with relation to its harness. If you were to put faceted fluorite beads into a tumbler with water and steel shot, the facets would wear away quickly, as well as the polish. When I set up a tumbler for rocks, I have to make sure that all of the material I put into the tumbler in one batch are of similar hardness. I cannot put a piece of soft malachite in with harder agates or jaspers. So, although this is basic answer, the hardness of the material depends on whether or not it can be tumbled while in a piece of jewelry or not, or for how long.

As for using an ionic cleaner on different metals, several members of the WS Faculty and I have been using an ionic cleaner on every type of jewelry making wire, for many years, with complete success! These metals include: sterling silver, Argentium® silver, 14/20 gold filled, copper, and brass.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 12, 2011

Question:

Hi! I have recently begun making jewelry after years in between a high school course and have a love for metal work. Although copper is my favorite medium, it has that pesky habit of turning people green. Is there a product or process I can use to stop that?

-Alaina in Robbinsdale, Minnesota

Answer:

Tarnish! Either you love it or you don’t. Alaina, I would like to direct you to several discussions we have had with regards to ways to prevent tarnish not only on copper, but also on brass. As more and more of us are using less expensive wire, I think folks will enjoy rereading these posts, which mention several products like Renaissance Wax, ProtectaClear, and NuFinish, that can be used to prevent tarnish on copper wire. Please don’t stop at the bottom of the posts, though – continue on and read the comments, because many folks have shared their experiments and experiences with all of us.

In the Tip Protecting Copper from Tarnishing no fewer than 8 different products are suggested!

Following the Tip Prevent Tarnish on Copper and Nickel Silver is a huge discussion (nearly 40 comments to-date!) that includes some more natural cleaning methods as well as experiments that didn’t turn out well, and how to counter them.

One comment under Keep Copper Wire Shining talks about actually using the beauty of tarnished copper within a design. Hopefully one of these discussions will help you as well.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Tip June 30: Prevent and Remove Verdigris

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
June 30, 2011

Question:

I have a question about verdigris. How can you clean old pieces of jewelry (copper, brass, sterling) that have this powdery blue/green substance on it? Why does it grow on some pieces and not others? Will it spread to other jewelry in close proximity?

-Teri in Granite Bay, California

Answer:

Yes, verdigris (the natural patina formed with the oxidization of copper) is not only a pain to clean, especially from intricate antique costume jewelry, but it is also a toxic substance. Verdigris is also a corrosive agent, meaning that this naturally-formed coating is actually eating away small bits of metal as long as it is allowed to remain untended for long periods of time. Verdigris forms as a result of oxygen, moisture and other pollutants the metal has come in contact with over the years. The pollutants also include body sweat and oils, make-up, perfumes, hair products, and lotions. This allows dust and small dirt particles to coat the jewelry, adding even more fertilizer to the formula. I think of this substance as a contagious disease to vintage jewelry because yes, it can spread amongst pieces that are stored together.

Verdigris grows on pure and alloy forms of copper, brass, and bronze, including items that may have once been plated with silver or gold. When a small amount of the plating has been removed or worn very thin, the surface is prepared for verdigris to germinate, especially if there is already a bit of it near the scar, chip, or nick, such as being stored with other items already infected.

Vintage, prong-set rhinestone jewelry in brass and rhodium plated settings. Private collection, Dale Armstrong

Vintage, prong-set rhinestone jewelry in brass and rhodium plated settings. Private collection, Dale Armstrong

From about age 9, I have been collecting vintage rhinestone costume jewelry and I have always used cheap toothpaste and a soft brush to clean any verdigis from the metals. Now, you cannot get this abrasive cleaner (most toothpastes contain pearlite – a form of volcanic glass) near any stones, especially if they are foil backed, or pearls – natural or manmade, and you need to keep both toothpaste and water away from any parts that may be glued. I begin by using a dental pic, toothpick, straight pin, and small scrap pieces of twisted jewelry wire to get as much of the crud off as carefully as possible. Then I have a go with a child-size soft toothbrush and toothpaste, always brushing in the direction of the metal. I rinse the piece off bit by bit using water dampened scraps of t-shirt and cotton swabs and when it has been cleaned enough for me (all of the verdigris gone but leaving some nondestructive patina), I store these pieces in a velvet lined box, each individually bagged in plastic – unless it has a natural pearl, those pieces are in little velvet bags. To clean the tops of any glass stones, I use a cotton swab dipped in ammonia, and then rinse with a clean swab and dry with another. No, none of the stones in the vintage jewelry that I personally collect are either foil-backed or glued.

There are many other ways that other folks clean antique costume jewelry. Some use vinegar, others swear by lemon juice, still others like to use either ketchup or Worcestershire sauce! Whatever you do, remember that after spending hours fastidiously cleaning these special pieces, make sure they are completely dry before storing them.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Tip June 15: Tumbling Chain Maille Jewelry

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
June 15, 2011

Question:

Should chain maille jewelry be tumbled? Is that to harden it so that the links don’t open?

-Sue in Easton, Pennsylvania

Answer:

Hi Sue, many folks tumble their chain maille jewelry for several reasons. Yes, tumbling will further harden the links. It will also remove any burrs, clean the work, and give it a nice shine. You do need to be aware that any wire that will normally tarnish with time, will still tarnish after tumbling.

In my studio, we occasionally tumble my daughter’s chain maille jewelry. When? Well, only if she is working with home-made jump rings that may have burrs from the saw blade. We place finished pieces (pure chain maille, without any beads) into a small barrel with 1 pound of mixed stainless steel shot, a small squirt of blue, original Dawn and enough water to cover the contents. Then we turn on the tumbler and leave it to run for about 1 hour. Then we remove the finished items, rinse them thoroughly under running water, and leave them on a towel to air dry.

The final step is to rinse the shot, let it air dry, and then store it until the next need. We put the dry shot in a plastic container with several silica gel packs. Many people, including us, save the silica gel packets that are packed into so many items today. If you need to purchase more, I like the company Silica Gel Packets.

In writing the article Tumbling Your Jewelry, faculty member Mary Bailey interviewed several folks who regularly use a tumbler with their finished jewelry. As you are thinking about a tumbler, you may find some useful information that will help you decide whether or not to tumble your finished chain maille pieces.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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