by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong and Krystal Day, Wire-Sculpture.com

In Part 1 of this series, How to Choose Wire Temper for Making Jewelry, we learned about the most popular wire tempers that are used to make wire jewelry designs. Now we will learn a bit about the size or gauge of jewelry making wire, along with some examples of how different gauges may be used.

When looking at the gauge numbers of wire, it is normal to think: “the larger the number, the bigger the wire.” However, wire gauges actually work in reverse: “the larger the number, the smaller the wire.” This is because all jewelry wire sizes begin at the number 0, and each time the wire is passed through a drawing die, it becomes smaller. So, a wire that is labeled as 22-gauge has been pulled 22 times, and it is 22 times smaller than its original size. The gauge equals the diameter of the wire, meaning the distance straight across its center.

In North America, the size of the holes in a wire-drawing die is based on a geometric formula developed in 1855 by the machine-tool company, Brown and Sharpe. This progression of 39 sizes is known as the American Wire Gauge (AWG). All of the wire stocked by Wire-Sculpture is labeled using the AWG. Other parts of the world may use the British Standard Wire Gauge (SWG), where the sizes are just a hair larger than those of the AWG. (For example: AWG 20-gauge = 0.813mm and SWG 20-gauge = 0.914mm.) For the purpose of this article, all references below relate to the American Wire Gauge (AWG).

28-34-gauge
These are extremely fine wires, with diameters that measure from 0.013-.006 inches or 0.32-.16 millimeters. When thinking about using these wires, compare them to sewing thread. They can be used for coiling, weaving, knitting, and crocheting, as well as to work with feather-weight small-holed pearls and seed beads. If it should become kinked, this wire will easily break.

26-gauge
Measuring .016 inches or .41 millimeters in diameter, this is also a thin wire, but unlike the extremely fine wires (above) it is amazingly strong. In a round shape, one of its most popular uses is to coil it around a larger-gauge wire. It can also be used to knit, crochet, and weave, and to attach small-hole pearls and beads to other projects.

24-gauge
This is the first gauge in this list that can be used in the base creation of both sculpted and traditional wire jewelry designs. The diameter of 24-gauge wire measures 0.020 inches or 0.51 millimeters. In a round shape, it can be used more aggressively in the same manners as the 26-gauge above, and in a square shape 24-gauge can be used to make frames and wire settings for smaller cabochons and faceted stones. It is also used to make individual jump rings and head pins, as well as wrapping the tops of briolettes.

22-gauge
The diameter of this wire measures 0.025 inches or 0.64 millimeters. In a square shape, this is the preferred gauge for most traditional wire jewelry designs, such as bracelets, rings, and pendants for women and children. It is often used to make settings and frames for small-to-medium sized cabochons and cut stones. 22-gauge round is also used for larger coiling projects and those with experience will also use it for weaving and braiding designs. As a multi-purpose wire, it makes a nice double wrapped hook, head pins, smaller clasps, and it can be used to make individual jump rings.

21-gauge
Slightly larger than the 22-gauge, the diameter of 21-gauge wire measures 0.0285 inches or .723 millimeters. In a square shape, this small difference in size will match 21-gauge wire with the thickness of several pattern wires, so that they may be used together in bracelet and pendant designs. It can be used in all of the same projects listed for 22-gauge, but in a heavier fashion, meaning anything made with 21-gauge wire is suitable for men. It is the preferred gauge for making most prong projects and rings. Round 21-gauge wire is also an excellent choice when creating hooks and eyes, individual jump rings and other components that need to handle more stress. It is the preferred choice for making ear wires.

20-gauge
20-gauge wire measures 0.032 inches or .81 millimeters in diameter. In a round shape, 20-gauge wire is good for clasps, double wrapped hooks, head pins, ear wires and many other handcrafted components. The square 20-gauge wire is most often used to make heavier jewelry such as bracelets and rings for men, as well as to create neck collars for women.

18-gauge
Measures 0.040 inches or 1.02 millimeters in diameter and it is a very strong wire. It works well for making all types of hooks and clasps and for wire wrapping beads with large holes. It is used often when making ornate bracelets and when creating wire collars and heavier neck pieces.

16-gauge
This is a thicker wire that measures 0.051 inches or 1.29 millimeters in diameter. It can be used to make neck wires, freeform rings, bracelets and bracelet bases.

14-gauge
Probably the heaviest wire most wire artists will use, its diameter measures .0641 inches or 1.63 millimeters. Most often used in a dead soft temper, 14-gauge wire is perfect for making neckpieces, arm cuffs and bracelet frames.
What are your favorite gauges to work in? Leave a comment below! Next time, we’ll cover the last topic in this 3-part series on jewelry making wire, on Choosing Wire Shape.

by Rose Marion, Wire-Sculpture.com

Wire Jewelry Idea for
November 2, 2011

Here at Wire-Sculpture, we cut our wire by the foot for your convenience, rather than shipping you a quarter-ounce, half-ounce, or full ounce of jewelry wire. (Remember: precious metal is measured in ozt, or troy ounces) But what if you’re familiar with ordering by the ounce, as some precious metals are, or what if your electrician friend offered you a couple pounds of scrap copper wire? Is it worth the drive across town?

We’ve collected data on Gold-Filled, Sterling Silver, and Argentium® wires, the most common wires to be sold by weight, and put it in a convenient chart for you. We’ve also included our chart on Copper and Brass, which are often measured by the pound. Please note, all values are approximate.

Download Wire Length-per-Weight Charts (60KB)  |  Download Adobe Reader

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Feel free to bookmark this page, or our other Wire Charts page, and come back as often as you like!

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by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong and Krystal Day, Wire-Sculpture.com

You have decided to give wire jewelry making a try, congratulations! It is a lot of fun, but there are so many different sizes or gauges, tempers or hardness and shapes of jewelry making wire to choose from, that one can easily become confused. One of the questions I am often asked about a variety of projects is, “What type of wire can I use?” In this short series of “About Jewelry Making Wire” articles, I hope to be able to cure most of your curiosity and confusion.

How to choose the wire hardness

Referring to metals, a wire’s “hardness” or temper is the measurement of its malleability; how easy is the wire to control, shape and/or bend without breaking.  When purchasing jewelry making wire, you will find that it is available in several different levels of hardness. Depending on the metal, the most popular jewelry wires can be categorized into four groups: hard, half hard, medium hard, and dead soft. Wire tempers may also be labeled by number:

• Full Hard #4
• Half Hard #2
• Medium Hard #1
• Dead Soft #0

Full Hard Wire is difficult to bend and expertly holds its shape in whatever configuration it is worked into. Hard wire can be used to make ear wires, pins, single jump rings, hook,s and clasps that will get a lot of use; because the harder the wire, the more “spring” it naturally has. For example: the pin on a well-loved brooch will be pushed back and forth many times, therefore a harder wire will withstand more use before possible breakage.

Half Hard Wire is definitely more malleable than full hard, and it is the most popular wire temper for those who create “traditional” wire jewelry items. This wire will beautifully hold any shape it is bent into and because it will work harden quickly, it is the perfect choice for executing prong designs. Half hard wire forms crisp clean angles and smooth spirals and curves, and it is the preferred choice when making jump rings.

This prong ring was made in half hard gold filled wire.

Medium Hard Wire is just a bit more soft than half hard wire, usually found as silver-plated and colored craft wire. Because this wire has enough temper to create almost all of the same projects as half hard wire, it can be a great substitute for those with more sensitive hands and fingers. However, because the core of most craft wires is generally copper, it is not recommended for prong creation.

Dead Soft Wire is extremely malleable and it can be easily bent into a myriad of shapes by using just your hands. It is great for making loops, swirls, spirals, and sculpted wire jewelry pieces. Dead soft wire is also used for coiling, crocheting, knitting, and weaving, or to mix with half hard wire in certain situations. Depending on the size (gauge) of the wire, dead soft wire does not hold its shape in stress situations, such as prongs; however, it can be hardened and/or beautifully textured by using a variety of jewelers’ hammers.

Please keep in mind, that most jewelry making wire will “work harden” as it is bent and formed, making the harder tempers more difficult to work with near the end of a project. This feature can be an advantage while making certain items that will take a lot of stress such as hooks, clasps, and pins, to name a few. The temper of a wire may also appear to harder to work with, depending on the size or gauge of a wire. For example, bending a piece of 22-gauge half hard wire is much easier than bending a piece of 14-gauge half hard wire, because 14-gauge is larger. We’ll talk more about gauges in the next article.

What’s your favorite temper to work with, or do you mix and match? Leave a comment below!

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 20, 2011

Question:

Hi Dale, I’ve learned a lot watching your videos and reading these tips. Thanks! My question has to do with framed freeform cab pendants. I’ve been intimidated about trying to wrap them (or structured ones using that style) because I can’t figure out how to determine where the binding wires should be placed. Is there a basic concept I’m missing? Seems like it would be logical, but I’d appreciate your help with this. Thanks.

-Jackie in Ellenville, New York

Answer:

Hi Jackie, first I have to ask, do you have my Beginner DVD #2? The reason I ask is because the main project on that DVD is how to wrap a freeform cabochon, taking about “where” to place wraps and why, which would completely answer your question with both visual instruction as well as all of the extra stuff I talk about in classes.

Freeform Cabochons are arguably the hardest “shape” to wire wrap, which is why Dale teaches it; after discovering how to use the formulas, you can make a frame for cabochons with any dimensions.

Basically wherever you want to make a “pull” (pull a wire from the frame onto the stone), you need to do it immediately after a wrap, BUT you do not have to make a pull wherever there IS a wrap. When you look at a freeform cab and decide what will be the top (where the bail will be) then you have to decide where you “need” to make pulls to hold the stone securely in its frame as well as how much wire you want on the stone. Thinking about this, what are some of the features you do not want to cover up? What are some of the features that you would like to enhance by “framing” with a pull wire?

For practice, work on a harder stone such as an agate and make the first pulls on the back of the piece, experimenting with different sized pliers, like chain nose for shallow pulls and flat nose for deeper ones. Your results will help you decide which to use on the front of the stone. Seriously, my best advice is to get the DVD I mentioned above; within my directions I also give you the formulas to follow so you can make ANY size or shape cabochon into a stunning pendant!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 18, 2011

Question:

What gauge and temper of wire is used for the intricate lacy curlicues commonly fill in the outlines of filigree components?

-Shelly in Mililani, Hawaii

Answer:

Hi Shelly, the wire that I use to create "cold" filigree is usually 24-gauge half hard square, that I twist before I work with it. To learn how to create, curve, tease, and connect cold filigree, may I suggest checking out my Cold Filigree Wide Cuff Bracelet DVD?

If you mean "traditional" filigree, then I would recommend getting a copy of my friend Jean Rhodes-Moen’s book, Silver Threads (ISBN 0-87116-221-0), because she is an authority on Norwegian filigree jewelry design and technique.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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