Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 17, 2011

Question:

I have talked to a number of people with nickel allergies, and want to make jewelry these folks can wear without having a reaction. What kinds of wires are nickel free, and how readily available are they?

-Dorothy in Prineville, Oregon

Answer:

Hi Dorothy, we have had a many good discussions on wire that should not react to people in an adverse way. However, because each human being produces and excretes varying amounts of different chemicals, including salt, it is really difficult to say exactly what will not cause an allergic reaction to everyone! I compiled this list of metal allergy discussions we’ve had for you:

In the discussion under Jewelry Wire for Earrings we find that some folks are even allergic to surgical steel and that niobium is one choice. Niobium wire isn’t generally available on the market, but findings such as ear wires can be found online.

The discussions under Purity and Sensitivity with Argentium® Silver several folks agree with me about using this special metal wire for those with nickel allergies because Argentium contains absolutely no nickel whatsoever!

Metal Beads for Ear Wraps also talks about metal allergies, and one reader recommends using fine silver.

And the Hypoallergenic Ear Wires discussion reminds us that titanium also contains no nickel.

As far as being available, Wire-Sculpture stocks Argentium wire, and there are many places on the Internet where you can find the other choices mentioned. I hope these ideas answer your question, Dorothy. Happy twisting!!

Editor’s Note: Generally speaking, gold is nickel-free, so gold filled wire (being a thick layer that won’t chip or scratch) is also safe for those with a nickel allergy. Pure silver doesn’t contain nickel; sterling (92.5% silver) is generally considered safe for those with a nickel allergy. And as you likely already know, “hypoallergenic” does not have a regulated meaning in the U.S., so “hypoallergenic” products may well still contain nickel. However, European standards prohibit more than 0.05% nickel in jewelry, so our European customers must be far more careful!

Your turn: What wires do you trust for your nickel-sensitive clients? Have you tried any “hypoallergenic” metals like fine silver or niobium, and what were your results? Let us know in the comments below!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 12, 2011

Question:

Hi, I’m wondering what the gauges are in wire jewelry, and what the increment between each gauge is. I have a draw plate, but the holes aren’t marked, so I don’t know the sizes or increments. Thank you.

-Mollie in Reardan, Washington

Answer:

Hi Mollie, most wire jewelry uses gauges from 14-gauge (thick) to 28-gauge (thin), with some pieces and techniques using even larger and thinner wire. The higher the number, the thinner the wire; to help me remember, I think about a small tube that I put wire in, and I can fit lots of thin wire (like 28), but not as many thick ones (like 12). Wire jewelry patterns usually choose gauges from all the even-numbered gauges plus 21-gauge.

The wire sold in North America is usually measured according to the American Wire Gauge (AWG), one of a few ways to measure wire. Wikipedia has a lot of information on this measuring system, including how the steps between sizes are calculated and some rules of thumb.

Here on Wire-Sculpture, we have a handy page for finding the diameter (width) of the wire in inches and millimeters. Simply go to our Resource Center and look under All About Wire, it’s called Wire Gauge & Footage Charts. The first two charts are for converting weight of wire to footage (because some people are used to ordering wire by the ounce or the pound, and we offer jewelry wire by the foot); the last chart will help you convert AWG to inches and millimeters.

As far as your draw plate, to find what gauge a hole is, I would measure the diameter of the hole with a ruler that has millimeters, a wire gauge, or a caliper. Just use the chart I linked above to convert the millimeters to AWG. Be aware that many draw plates are chamfered, meaning that the hole is wider where you put it in, and tapers to be smaller as the finished size. I hope this helps!

Answer contributed by Rose Marion

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 11, 2011

Question:

I read your information on choosing the size of a cup burr, but have never heard of that tool. What is a cup burr used for?

-Dorothy in Prineville, Oregon

Answer:

Hi Dorothy, a “cup burr,” or cup bur, is used to round off the end of either a square or round wire, removing the “burrs”. We covered the different sizes in this post: Cup Bur Sizes for Wire Gauges.

Most wire artists use this little tool when making their own ear wires. Wire-Sculpture Faculty member Sonja Kiser demonstrates the procedure nicely in our Free video tip, Removing Wire Burrs. Thanks for asking!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 10, 2011

Question:

What is the best gauge of wire to use to make rings? I decided to get into wire jewelry to add to my style of jewelry making and it’s all new to me. Thanks.

-Pam in Crosslake, Minnesota

Answer:

Hello Pam, so glad to hear that you are combining wire with your favorite jewelry making mediums! The answer to your question is: any gauge you want, as long as it works! Seriously, some examples are: wire artists have made rings from 16- and 18-gauge round soft wire, by free-forming them on a mandrel and adding embellishments and/or texturizing them with an embossing hammer. 24-gauge is good for small, multiple wire rings; depending on the “style,” 22-gauge can be used in either dead soft or half hard for several designs and 21- or 20-gauge makes great prong or classic cabochon rings; and 20-gauge half round half hard is about perfect for wrapping ring shanks. For a more detailed discussion of what temper (hardness) of wire to use making rings, please read this recent Tip, Wire Temper for Wrapped Rings.

Albina Manning’s free Button Ring pattern uses 20-gauge dead soft for a soft sculpted ring that isn’t trying to hold a stone.

As you can see, the size of the wire used, as well as the choice of temper, really depends on what “style” of ring you are making. My best advice here would be to check out the Ring DVDs, and work them in order from number 1 through the last. As you work through the variety of designs, you will become familiar with the different wire sizes and tempers and how they can be used in ring designs, and then go off on your own and make your personal wire ring ideas, the way you want to!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 6, 2011

Question:

When making jump rings, which is best to use, hard or half hard wire?

-Devree in Virginia Beach, Virginia

Answer:

Hello Devree, depending on how many you need, making your own jump rings can either be very satisfying or very frustrating. Basically, if you use a heavy gauge wire like 16 or 18, you would want to use soft or half hard wire. For smaller gauges, you might want to try full hard, but because the wire hardens so quickly (except for copper) when it is bent, that half hard is more than adequate.

If you are going to be putting your jump rings into a tumbler to harden and clean them, either before or after the work is completed, then it really doesn’t make any difference as half hard and full hard will both become harder. When I need just a few jump rings for a piece, I usually use half hard.

Related: All Tips of the Day mentioning Jump Rings

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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