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Daily Wire Tip Sept. 29: Grooving Cabochons for Jewelry

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 29, 2011

Question:

How do you drill gemstones around the edge to hold wire? I want to use teardrop stones that are flat on both sides and without holes to make pendants and earrings. I need stones that have the groove around the edge to do that. Are these available or do I have to drill them myself?

-Jean Ann in Mountain City, Tennessee

Answer:

Hello Jean, to make grooves around cabochons you can either contact a lapidary and have them custom made for you, or you can invest in something like a Dremel Workstation or a grinding tool or router used in the glass business. Sorry, as a wire artist I don’t worry about grooving my cabs, but I have seen some lovely jewelry made using this method. Hopefully some of our readers can help!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Tip Sept. 26: Sell or Display Valued Stones?

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 26, 2011

Question:

Dale, I just love the series of articles on gemstones; it’s such a huge field of study one hardly knows where to start. Thank you! My question is about pricing for rarity.

You made a comment about Ocean Jasper that literally made me gasp! If Ocean Jasper is not being actively mined at the original source anymore, I’m reluctant to part with what I think are exceptional examples. My experience is that good specimens of Ocean Jasper are not that easy to come by (at least within the limited travel I do). I’m torn between starting a private collection of “not for sale” stones, and trying to decide what a fair price is for stones that truly stand out above the rest. It’s a fact that stones are one-of-a-kind, but as an artist, I put a higher value on visual impact. I might buy a whole strand because of one or two stones. I’m a bit timid about saying, “This stone is worth much more,” and then pricing accordingly. Help! Your encouragement and suggestions are always right on target.

-Marcia in Syracuse, New York

Answer:

Thanks Marcia! Yes, deciding how to proceed with the Gem Profiles was a bit confusing for me at first, but when I decided not to worry about the word "gem" and to just write about the rocks and minerals that we most often use in our wire jewelry designs, it became fun! (And it is helping me sort through the many piles of rocks in and around my studio, too!)

With regards to your question about rarity and pricing brought up by ocean jasper, well, I always tell my students that very special pieces deserve very special prices! As artists, usually when a special stone or cabochon catches our eye we have a definite idea of what we want to use it for. More often than not, the piece comes home with us and ends up in a special drawer, waiting for that day (and if you are like me, you find it again… years later!). Speaking from personal experience and choices, if and when I decide to use a very special piece or two in a jewelry design, I don’t worry about the price of materials, I just make what feels "right" (meaning that sometimes a stone screams to be set in 14 or 18kt solid gold). When the piece is done, I don’t worry about selling it, either! I believe that every piece has an owner (even though it may take years for them to find one another). This "show-stopper" becomes a centerpiece in my display cases at art shows, and it may spend a few months in one gallery or another, as an example of what I am able to create. Because of the attention it attracts, it often adds to my sales via customer orders (and I love wearing things like this to special events!)

With regard to pricing something like this, for example if the materials cost $300 wholesale, and I spent a week or so working on it, then my price could be from $1800 to $2500 or more. If it sells, fine. If not, that’s fine too! The photo below is one such piece. "Dancing Stones" is made entirely in Argentium® silver and with the exception of the 4mm lab-grown ruby, all of the rest are AA grade natural stones (rubile tourmaline, peridot, chrome diopside, blue topaz, iolite, orange topaz, citrine, and 2 rainbow moonstone/white labradorite cabs custom cut by my husband just for this piece); as metal prices rise, so does its price. (On average, I sell one piece every six months for between $1200 and $1800.)

Wire wrapped gemstone pendant

Dancing Stones by Dale Cougar Armstrong

Now the second part of your question, do you use and sell special stones or form a collection? Well, most of us already have such collections, waiting to be used. Why not label them and put them in a Riker case? This way you can enjoy looking at them while you work – for inspiration, and you can easily take them with you to shows if you desire – maybe generating special orders, or put them in your safe when you travel.

As far as trying to explain the value of one stone over another to a customer, in my opinion, if they have to ask, you will not make the sale anyhow because they can’t "see" the difference from an "art-eye." If they seem to like the stone but they want to dicker about the price, don’t even take it out of the case. Simply direct them to a similar item with a price that is in their comfort zone. This is one of the reasons why I recommend putting a "show-stopper" in the middle of a case, surrounded by less expensive pieces of similar colors. The "big" one catches the eye and the smaller ones make sales, just be sure all of the price tags are showing!!

This is a good time to tell you all what some of us do with those beads we really have no use for! Karen Braverman-Freeman came to visit me in Tucson, with a special request. Karen donates her time to run jewelry making classes at Camp Summersault in Long Beach, California. This is a day camp for children with cancer and their siblings. All of the supplies are donated, such as beads, findings, and stringing materials. If you would like to donate any tax deductible materials to this very worthy cause, please contact Karen via email here. I hope my answers have met your expectations, Marcia, thanks for asking!!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
August 29, 2011

Question:

Can you tell me the difference between Abalone and Paua Shell?

-Diane in Port Charlotte, Florida

Answer:

Abalone Cabochon Paua Cabochon
Abalone cabochon left, and paua shell cabochon, right;
the paua shell cab has been dyed

Great question, Diane! Abalone is a kind of sea snail that is not only collected for its beautiful mother-of-pearl shell, but also for its meat in some countries. Abalone can be found nearly worldwide, except the western Atlantic Sea (eastern North & South America). The name "abalone" comes from the Spanish word "abulon." Beautiful abalone specimens can be found in New Zealand, where the Maori word for them is Paua. Some people tend to associate paua with brighter colors, such as vivid blues, pinks, and greens; paua shell cabochons are commonly dyed to enhance their color.

Abalone and paua are some of the few organic materials widely regarded as jewelry-quality, others being coral, pearl, amber, jet, and ivory. For more about abalone, there is a great deal of information in this article: Abalone

Answer contributed by Wire-Sculpture Staff

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
August 23, 2011

Question:

Hi, I was wondering what book(s) you would recommend buying to identify rocks and gemstones? Thank you.

-Nikki in Brentwood, California

Answer:

Hi Nikki, oh my goodness! With so many choices at a variety of prices, I totally understand how difficult this choice can be. My personal research library includes no less than 63 books devoted just to these subjects (and several have been out of print for years!). Some of these volumes I have two copies of, one for the studio and one to take into the field with me.

Good books to throw in a backpack and take into the field with you are two, inexpensive, small paperbacks in the "Golden Nature Guide" series: "Rocks and Minerals" and "Fossils". (When you are beginning to rock hunt in a new area, it is also smart to have copies of their "Snake" and "Venomous Animals" handy.) If you are interested in finding locations to hunt rocks, their "Geology" book is a great beginners’ book that will have you looking out your car windows very differently!

One of my favorite books for helping to identify gemstones that have already been cut is Simon & Schuster’s Guide to Gems and Precious Stones, by Curzio Cipriani and Alessandro Borelli (ISBN 0-671-60430-9) and Minerals of the World by Walter Schumann (ISBN: 0-8069-8570-4) has great "normal" photos of rocks and minerals (rather than images taken by a microscope) that can help you with identifying rocks. One of the books I often use as a reference guide when I am writing the Gem Profiles we feature every Friday is The Audubon Society Field Guide to North America Rocks and Minerals, (Charles W. Chesterman and Kurt E. Lowe, ISBN 0-394-50269-8).

To avoid spending lots of money on books you might think you need, but later find out they aren’t what you wanted, spend an afternoon in a good bookstore and look through their selection. If you want to look for your own specimens, local rock shops will also have good books for your particular area. Several of the online options also provide reviews as well as sample pages of books that you can see before you buy.

How about my fellow wire artists, lapidaries and rockhounds: what are your personal favorites when it comes to rock and gemstone identification books?

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 21, 2011

Question:

Hi Dale, I love rough stones and their look, but I also like them with facets, and polished. In regards to faceting machines, what seems to be well worth the investment? Before I got into wire jewelry making I was exploring this and soldering to make jewelry, I like working with wire better. Thanks for all the wonderful tips.

-Brenna in West Sacramento, California

Answer:

Hey Brenna! Oh yes, the choice of faceting machines available today is large, as well as expensive. I think that faceting is a very soothing as well as an extremely satisfying experience. My first machine was a used one, so I could get a "feel" for the art. When I chose my new machine, I spent hours at the February Tucson Gem Shows, where people have the opportunity to try all different brands and styles of many lapidary machines. You could also do an internet search (to get started, explore this article: Faceting Machine) and really research the benefits of the different brands, as well as look for customers’ opinions before spending a few thousand dollars!

Your decision should be based on: how is the ease of the chosen machine’s use; does it come with all of the necessary laps and index wheels; how many dop sticks are included and in what shapes and sizes; is there a good transfer fixture; will you have to purchase a dop pot and dop wax separately? You will also need a small trim saw, or you could purchase what the industry calls "preforms" of certain stones at good prices. Then there are the "books," my favorite is "Facet Cutters Handbook" by Edward J. Soukop.

Is the investment worth it? Well, to me and many other folks it is. You say that you love wire work – cold connections are not as messy or time-intensive as many other styles of jewelry making. Would you like to use more cut stones in your designs? Do you have a market for this style of jewelry? A very good feature of purchasing a faceting machine and all of the necessary accessories is that used machines are always in demand, so if you decide you don’t want to do it, you will always be able to find a buyer!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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