Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
November 12, 2009

Question:

I really liked Sherrie’s video of packing your supplies for travel, but what about packing your finished pieces to take to a show?

Answer:

Actually, I am answering this while at a show myself! There are many ways to transport your jewelry pieces to and from a show safely. I am just going to share how I manage.

I like full sized, stackable, plastic jewelry trays in sizes 1-inch to 2 ½-inches deep, into which I have a variety of flocked inserts that contain from 8 to 48 sections, as well as velvet boards. The sectioned trays are where small items go, (and yes each section has a tarnish paper on the bottom, and many of my pieces are also in individual plastic bags). My larger and specialty pieces go in the trays on the velvet boards. The plastic trays all stack together and can be labeled on their ends, then they go into a jewelry carry case, with end zippers. My taller items like crowns and tiaras go into a small cardboard box (that goes in with my tablecloths) rings are all sized, tagged and ready to sell in a velvet ring insert in a display tray with a clear top and snap side. Earrings priced $35 and under are all on cards and hung on a rotating, acrylic earring stand, wrapped in a sheet and rides on the passenger seat of my truck.

I also have several tall storage units with handled drawers that use the same inserts as above and have a place to add your own label on the front. Sometimes I just pack these units into their original shipping cartons (yes I save boxes) and take my entire inventory with me. In this way, I never leave anyone at home by mistake.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
November 11, 2009

Question:

Hi, when wrapping the shank or a ring, do you have to always start the wrap in the middle or can you start on either side working down and around?

Answer:

The ways chosen to wrap a ring shank depend totally on the creator. Personally, I rarely begin a full shank wrap in the center and work toward each side, because I find that often the first and center wrap isn’t as tight as it should be, (which can happen when beginning a wrap), it juts out and after wrapping the entire shank there is no way to correct this.

I prefer to begin a shank wrap at one side and then wrap entirely around the shank. There are a few designs that actually call for a wrap to begin in the center of a ring, which is usually important to execute that particular design properly. If I find that I have not planned for the needed length of wrap wire and it does not go all the way around the shank, I can simply end it where it is and then go back and remove a few from the beginning to make the sides match, OR if the shank is wide, (like 4 wires), I have been successful with adding another piece of wrap wire, just by cutting and placing it to butt immediately against the end of the ended first wrap segment.

Determining the exact length of a shank wrap wire is difficult, but with some experience you will know about how much to cut, depending on both the of size of the ring and the width of the shank. A suggestion is to always cut just a little bit more than you think you’ll need, because as we all know, there is always a use for a 1 – 2 inch piece of half-round wire in a future project.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
November 10, 2009

Question:

Could you please explain what the purpose of a draw plate is?

Answer:

A ‘draw plate’ is a type of die that is used to either reshape or re-size wire. Dead soft wire is the preferred temper used to ‘draw’, and as the wire will work harden and become brittle during the process, the recommended number of times a wire is drawn is three. Drawing wire will reduce its thickness when reshaping, while also increasing its length.

To draw wire through the draw plate, one end of the wire must first be filed smaller, so it will fit though the chosen hole. While holding this end with good gripping pliers, small gauge wire can be pulled slowly and steadily through by hand, while larger gauged wire can be attached to a crank. Before drawing any wire through a draw plate, the wire needs to be lubricated with a substance such as beeswax or multi-purpose machine oil.

A draw plate also needs to be locked into a vise to be used, and if one is drawing wire through it, one made of metal is the obvious choice.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip

Question:

What is “white gold”?

Answer:

Ok, first things first. There is no white gold naturally formed. Gold can be found in green, pink and yellows, due to the mineral influence around it, but never white. Alloying yellow gold with a combination of silver, palladium, copper, and/or zinc makes white gold. Nickel is no longer regularly added due to allergic reactions of many people.

White gold will tarnish quicker than sterling silver! Due to the alloys present to make the ‘white’ color, white gold needs to be coated with rhodium to prevent tarnish. The rhodium will eventually wear off and the piece will then need to be professionally re-plated.

From my personal experience, I have made pieces using 14kt white gold wire, because a customer simply “had to have” 14k white gold. Because this white gold wire would need to be plated with rhodium after creating the design, and the stone wouldn’t be protected, it went “bare” and turned black within a few weeks! She has since had me redo all of these pieces using Argentium.

In conclusion, if you or your customer desires a really white metal that will stay bright for a long time, use Argentium silver. If they have a 14kt white gold “ego” issue, save yourself the aggravation and future headaches by being honest with them about what “white gold” really is.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
November 7, 2009

Question:

I would like to be able to supply some of my customers with gold chains for the pendants I create but cant seem to find any, can you help with this?

Answer:

In today’s market (Nov 2009) 14k gold chains sell by the gram (from $32 to $39/gm) and the price changes daily, so I would find a company and call to order when the gold market is low. 14k gold-filled chain can be purchased by the piece or by the foot, again the price depending on the market for whatever day. Do an Internet search for ’14k gold chain’ or ’14k gold-filled chain’ and see what your options are.

Yes, I went through the same dilemma years ago. I wanted to offer my customers chains to go with my pendants, but then I got into what length, what type of clasp, “don’t you have this type of link?”, etc. I ended up spending so much money to have a good stock of whatever a customer might wish for that I still have several around somewhere (and that was many years ago). Everyone has a favorite chain! You might want to offer an ‘instant gratification’ solution by having finished ribbons or knotted silk cords available and you could even sweeten the purchase by giving this item for free.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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