Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
March 15, 2011

Question:

Hi Dale,
I have recently purchased a purple turquoise pendant drop that I want to use in a necklace. I was assured that the stone was genuine. However, in my research since the purchase, I can find no mention of purple as a natural color of turquoise. Is purple really a natural color of turquoise? Also, I have seen Howlite turquoise advertised. What is Howlite? Thanks so much–I have learned a great deal from the Daily Tip emails!

-Pat in Ringgold, Georgia

Answer:

Hey Pat, I am sorry, but there is no natural purple turquoise. Turquoise is a hydrous phosphate of copper and aluminum, both of which cause the blue to green color. The natural color of turquoise ranges from chalky white to a yellowish green. Of course this leads into "yellow" turquoise, which is a natural material, but an extremely rare form of turquoise. Most of the yellow turquoise on the market today is actually a type of jasper. Remember: If a "rare" product is inexpensive, it’s not genuine!

More than likely, what you have is actually a form of reconstituted turquoise, where the dehydrated rock was ground up and mixed with a red dyed resin, forming the purple color in a plastic reinforced product. The term "purple turquoise" has also been used as a synonym for the mineral Sugilite, but turquoise and sugilite are two totally different substances! For more information, we have a great article on Turquoise that describes the different treatments used, as well as its amazing journey through history: Turquoise, by Mary Bailey.

Howlite is an amazing mineral because it is abundant and it takes a dye really well. With a Mohs hardness of 3.5, stone carvers enjoy working with Howlite, producing all forms of small to large charms and statues. Because Howlite has black veining, it is often dyed to resemble turquoise and in its natural color it is most often misrepresented as "white turquoise" or "white buffalo turquoise". (Yes, when natural turquoise is dehydrated, it is a soft, chalky, white material, but unless it is stabilized with resin, it is impossible to work with.) The dye process is what needs to be watched; some factories will use a mixture of dye, sugar, and heat, resulting in a temporary dye that will come off in just water or on the skin. Click here to read more on howlite.

The following is just a little story from my experiences while rockhounding in the American Southwest. My husband and I met a prospector who had an unusual way of stabilizing the turquoise he dug. He collected old paint cans, loaded them halfway with dehydrated turquoise pieces, and then added a plastic resin. Then he placed the cans on old picnic tables in the desert behind his home. The natural heat from the sun added to the curing resin heat, and when the paint can tops blew off, the stabilized turquoise was ready. No kidding – it worked for him! (Don’t try this at home!)

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
March 14, 2011

Question:

Should I adjust the prices of my wire wrap jewelry at today’s prices? I have some pieces that I made when the silver price was at $11.00.

-Lia in Santa Ana, California

Answer:

You know Lia, we had a discussion on this a while back and when I found it . . . Wow! All jewelry making wire prices have really increased since then! (Dec 15, 2009 – Pricing Jewelry Made With Gold Wire) Thanks for asking – it is definitely time to revisit this subject. By the way, at the time I write this, 03/11/2011, Gold is $1420 and Silver is $35 per ounce – that’s a big change from $11!

My answer is Yes! When we make a piece of wire jewelry, we have to replace the wire used, therefore the wire used in a piece needs to reflect current replacement prices.

Go back to your records and examine the supplies used in each finished piece. For example, let’s say you have a pendant with 5 feet of sterling silver wire in it: when you bought this wire, it was $1.50/ft, and today the same wire costs $3.00/ft. Because 3 ÷ 1.50 is 2, just multiply the wire cost by 2 to arrive at the updated price (remember to add the rest of the component costs as well as your time). Of course, if you have a lot of prices to adjust and are in need of supplies, you could have a "one-time-only" sale, advertising "Yesterday’s Prices Today!" to reduce the old stock and make way for the new, generating income to reinvest in materials you may need.

Unfortunately, the future price forecast for jewelry making metals is not encouraging, with predictions of silver exceeding $48.70 per ounce during 2011 (the high range could reach $55 to $65 in the coming years). As the prices of gold began to rise, people turned to more affordable silver, causing the value of it to increase. Now that jewelry making has become so popular worldwide, and due to the above facts, even the prices of alternative metals are on the rise! (Copper is currently low at just $4.18/lb) If you would like to keep an eye on metal prices, my favorite website is CNN Commodities; you might also like Kitco.

All-in-all folks, if you are in the position to purchase metal jewelry making supplies today, I would advise you to do so. And by all means, re-price your handcrafted jewelry to reflect your rising replacement costs!

Note from Rose: Don’t forget that all Gold, Silver, and Argentium® Wire is on sale through 3/17! We only discount precious metal wire a few times a year, so stock up and save!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip

Question:

Hi Dale- I have a question about 14/20 gold filled wire. I know the 14 is 14 karat, but what does the 20 stand for? Thank you.

-Deborah in Wenden, Arizona

Answer:

Great question Deborah, thanks! By law (FTC Link), when a product is marked with the fraction 14/20, it means that the item must contain 1/20 of 14 karat gold with relation to the brass fill/core (5%). With relation, if a product is named or stamped 12/20, it is made of 1/20 of 12 karat gold. The purity of gold karat is determined by the amount of pure gold in a product, as described in detail in the article Carat (Purity).

Although a lower quality of gold filled may be less expensive, the color is why I personally make my choice. 14/20 has a more rich, gold color, while a lower value such as 12/20 is more yellow or brassy. Customers seem to like the fact that 14/20 gold-filled jewelry "matches" and wears like their 14k pieces, and love that it is more affordable!

As far as silver wire, our sterling silver filled wire is labeled as 1/10. That means it has a layer of .925 sterling silver wire around its brass core, and the sterling silver makes up 10% of the total wire. (Some companies only carry 1/20 (5%) sterling silver filled wire – we’re proud to bring you the most sterling silver for your wire jewelry!)

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
March 9, 2011

Question:

I design and sell jewelry of many different styles and materials: semi-precious gemstones, freshwater pearls, Swarovski crystal elements, as well as CZs, glass, acrylic, and other non-precious beads. I use primarily sterling silver and 14kt gold filled crimps, clasps and closures, except when the design incorporates brass, or other good quality, non-precious metals in the design.

In today’s world, it has become prohibitively expensive to try to use only sterling silver and gold filled beads and findings, and there are lots of very good quality metals, chains, beads, vintage products, etc, on the market that can make knock-off jewelry that people really like. Another example would be glass pearls vs. freshwater pearls.

How can I sell two different kinds of jewelry at the same time, and how do I describe the differences when talking to people, and when asked to write a description of my work for juried entries into shows and festivals?

-Cynthia in Houston, Texas

Answer:

Well Cynthia, why not! I see no challenges with mixing metals or media in our wire jewelry designs – or in making, displaying, and selling two different lines at the same time. Take a look in some of the more expensive department stores and catalogues at the jewelry product they are selling. You will see 18kt gold and diamond rings in a display case next to a case with silver plated, simulated pearl earrings! This is smart product selling, because you are targeting a variety of markets simultaneously.

When displaying your beautiful work, be sure to have a small label next to each piece, with a full description of the product (and a name, if applicable) along with the price. For example:

Carnelian Pendant
14k gf, Natural Stone
Swarovski Accents $95

A label such as this not only helps with sales when you are busy and can’t get to everyone (it talks for you) but it also generates conversation when a potential customer wants to know more about an item.

As far as your show applications, be honest, but not overly descriptive. For example:

"100% handcrafted jewelry designs made using: sterling, Argentium and Bali silver, 14kt gold filled, and alternative metal wires and accents; natural gemstones and pearls, vintage glass and specialty beads; no solder or glue."

This sample statement is short, sweet and fully describes what is used in the works of art, as well as the process. By generally describing the materials, a wire jewelry artist is covered using about anything they wish – and it’s all true!

Good Luck with your spring show season, Cynthia!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip

Question:

What is your opinion on creating jewelry while at a show? I’ve had some people say they love to see it being made, and others say I shouldn’t have “all that mess” out. Me, I try to keep the “mess” put away, all I have out are the stone, wire, and tools that I am currently using.

-Lorinda in Smithfield, Utah

Answer:

Well Lorinda, there are pros and cons to making jewelry at your booth – mostly pros! To share my experience and reasoning: when I began participating in shows, my dream was to have someone else there to take care of selling, while I just worked making jewelry as part of my display. Even though the people I had working with me knew about my work, stones, etc, I spent so much time answering questions that I couldn’t do any serious work! However, every item I made with folks watching sold, the crowd observing me drew more people to my booth, and I took a lot of custom orders (paid in full to be delivered or shipped to them within 3 weeks after the show). Personally, I have found that I sell more of my work without continuously creating during a show.

Now, to balance working and selling, I prepare and bring items that I can work on “in my sleep.” This way people can still enjoy the demonstrations, and I can carry on a detailed conversation at the same time. For example, I will have a bunch of rings made without wrapped shanks, and will wrap them during the show. I also prep several wire bundles for all-wire bangles that I can wrap while conversing, and people love to watch while I mindlessly braid beads into the Woven Beaded Bracelet (also prepped ahead of time).

Overall, in my opinion having your tools, some wire and a few supplies (like loose cabs) on a small table in your booth is a Good Thing! When folks ask about the wire, “No solder or glue? How does it stay together?” you can just pick up a coil and say, “It all begins here.” Mystify, Educate, and Create your customers!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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