Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 20, 2011

Question:

Hi Dale, I’ve learned a lot watching your videos and reading these tips. Thanks! My question has to do with framed freeform cab pendants. I’ve been intimidated about trying to wrap them (or structured ones using that style) because I can’t figure out how to determine where the binding wires should be placed. Is there a basic concept I’m missing? Seems like it would be logical, but I’d appreciate your help with this. Thanks.

-Jackie in Ellenville, New York

Answer:

Hi Jackie, first I have to ask, do you have my Beginner DVD #2? The reason I ask is because the main project on that DVD is how to wrap a freeform cabochon, taking about “where” to place wraps and why, which would completely answer your question with both visual instruction as well as all of the extra stuff I talk about in classes.

Freeform Cabochons are arguably the hardest “shape” to wire wrap, which is why Dale teaches it; after discovering how to use the formulas, you can make a frame for cabochons with any dimensions.

Basically wherever you want to make a “pull” (pull a wire from the frame onto the stone), you need to do it immediately after a wrap, BUT you do not have to make a pull wherever there IS a wrap. When you look at a freeform cab and decide what will be the top (where the bail will be) then you have to decide where you “need” to make pulls to hold the stone securely in its frame as well as how much wire you want on the stone. Thinking about this, what are some of the features you do not want to cover up? What are some of the features that you would like to enhance by “framing” with a pull wire?

For practice, work on a harder stone such as an agate and make the first pulls on the back of the piece, experimenting with different sized pliers, like chain nose for shallow pulls and flat nose for deeper ones. Your results will help you decide which to use on the front of the stone. Seriously, my best advice is to get the DVD I mentioned above; within my directions I also give you the formulas to follow so you can make ANY size or shape cabochon into a stunning pendant!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 12, 2011

Question:

Hi, I’m wondering what the gauges are in wire jewelry, and what the increment between each gauge is. I have a draw plate, but the holes aren’t marked, so I don’t know the sizes or increments. Thank you.

-Mollie in Reardan, Washington

Answer:

Hi Mollie, most wire jewelry uses gauges from 14-gauge (thick) to 28-gauge (thin), with some pieces and techniques using even larger and thinner wire. The higher the number, the thinner the wire; to help me remember, I think about a small tube that I put wire in, and I can fit lots of thin wire (like 28), but not as many thick ones (like 12). Wire jewelry patterns usually choose gauges from all the even-numbered gauges plus 21-gauge.

The wire sold in North America is usually measured according to the American Wire Gauge (AWG), one of a few ways to measure wire. Wikipedia has a lot of information on this measuring system, including how the steps between sizes are calculated and some rules of thumb.

Here on Wire-Sculpture, we have a handy page for finding the diameter (width) of the wire in inches and millimeters. Simply go to our Resource Center and look under All About Wire, it’s called Wire Gauge & Footage Charts. The first two charts are for converting weight of wire to footage (because some people are used to ordering wire by the ounce or the pound, and we offer jewelry wire by the foot); the last chart will help you convert AWG to inches and millimeters.

As far as your draw plate, to find what gauge a hole is, I would measure the diameter of the hole with a ruler that has millimeters, a wire gauge, or a caliper. Just use the chart I linked above to convert the millimeters to AWG. Be aware that many draw plates are chamfered, meaning that the hole is wider where you put it in, and tapers to be smaller as the finished size. I hope this helps!

Answer contributed by Rose Marion

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 11, 2011

Question:

I read your information on choosing the size of a cup burr, but have never heard of that tool. What is a cup burr used for?

-Dorothy in Prineville, Oregon

Answer:

Hi Dorothy, a “cup burr,” or cup bur, is used to round off the end of either a square or round wire, removing the “burrs”. We covered the different sizes in this post: Cup Bur Sizes for Wire Gauges.

Most wire artists use this little tool when making their own ear wires. Wire-Sculpture Faculty member Sonja Kiser demonstrates the procedure nicely in our Free video tip, Removing Wire Burrs. Thanks for asking!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 6, 2011

Question:

When making jump rings, which is best to use, hard or half hard wire?

-Devree in Virginia Beach, Virginia

Answer:

Hello Devree, depending on how many you need, making your own jump rings can either be very satisfying or very frustrating. Basically, if you use a heavy gauge wire like 16 or 18, you would want to use soft or half hard wire. For smaller gauges, you might want to try full hard, but because the wire hardens so quickly (except for copper) when it is bent, that half hard is more than adequate.

If you are going to be putting your jump rings into a tumbler to harden and clean them, either before or after the work is completed, then it really doesn’t make any difference as half hard and full hard will both become harder. When I need just a few jump rings for a piece, I usually use half hard.

Related: All Tips of the Day mentioning Jump Rings

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 22, 2011

Question:

I’ve bought several wire cutters that said they were “flush cutters”, but I still am left with a definite sharp point on my wire. I’m beginning to think I don’t understand what “flush” means. Is there such a thing as a wire cutter that leaves a flat or nearly-flat flush cut, or am I misunderstanding the concept? Thanks!

-Allison in Houston, Texas

Answer:

Hi Allison, I totally understand your confusion. When companies describe their products, they write what the product does, and I agree that most should be labeled as “angle flush cutters.” Think about what we are doing when we “cut” wire. Because there is no metal removed in the process, we are actually separating molecules! When the blades on a “cutter” perform, they are pinching the wire thin enough to break it at that point. Really, I have tried many different “flush” cutters over the years and here are my results.

For the flushest cut you can get at an affordable price, Memory Wire Cutters do a good job; however they have an inconvenient blade shape and size so they are not practical for most wire jewelry work.

The Tronex company makes a precision wire cutter; made of surgical steel, they are rather expensive at $55 to $70 a pair. These cutters really do cut flush, but like all decent wire cutters, you must remember to use them on precious metals to preserve them, and they are not good for wire gauges larger than 20.

Although I occasionally use Swanstrom cutters, mainly when I am doing a lot of work with large gauges (10 – 14), my favorite cutters are the Xuron flush cutters. I personally use these cutters on wires from size 12 through 26. No, they really do not cut “flush” straight across, but they do cut on a nice angle and if you use them enough you can train your eye to see where the angle will be and use it to your advantage!

As I have mentioned in other posts, to get rid of any burrs and make smooth ends on a piece of wire, cut the wire on a good angle and then use chain nose pliers to mash the end, tapering it. Then make a slight curve (heading toward the place the wire will rest) and when it is “put” there, the end will be as smooth as silk! When you are making individual jump rings (obviously not for a chain maille project) you can either double cut them with angle flush cutters or use memory wire cutters.

Related Products: Shop Flush Cutters on Wire-Sculpture and Flush Cutters on JewelryTools.com.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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