Wire-Sculpture Blog Jewelry Making Tips, News & Videos...Join the conversation

Technique Tips Archives

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 12, 2011

Question:

Can you tell me how to use the automatic wire twister? Thanks.

-Gale in Rockville, Maryland

Answer:

Hi Gale, I would like to direct you to Getting Twisted, an article all about wire twisters and how to use them. (This article is also reprinted in the written directions that come with our Automatic Wire Twister).

When describing how to use tools, sometimes it is easier to show rather than tell. Wire-Sculpture Faculty member Sherrie Lingerfelt did a video tip showing how to twist wire, which you can find here: Extremely Easy Ways to Twist Jewelry Wire. We have another video just on the automatic wire twister here. I hope this all helps!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Ask Your Tip of the Day Question Here!
Have a Question? Click Here to Submit Your Question

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email

Daily Wire Tip Sept. 7: Wire Wrapping Curved Cameos

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 7, 2011

Question:

I have an Italian hand-cut shell cameo with a curved back. How do I wire wrap a cameo with a curved back? I have been able to wire wrap the cameos in Dale’s DVDs, but they have a flat back. Thank you.

-Barbara in Byhalia, Mississippi

Answer:

Hello Barbara, I am pleased to hear that you enjoy my DVDs and have had success with the framed cabochon pendant! Yes, carved shell cameos can be scary, especially when you are new to the art and don’t want to damage such a lovely item, however you can frame it using the same process and formulas as you would a stone cab. Depending on how thin the cameo is, I would like to make a couple of construction suggestions for you to try.

First, mix your wire tempers! We know that we should never use less than 4 wires for a frame, so plan your frame bundle with a soft wire on each edge. When you make your frame, find a stone cabochon that is basically the same size and shape as the cameo and use it to form the actual frame, but make sure it has about 3mm of space at the top before the two sides meet. Tape the frame together and remove it from the cab. Wrap the bail with wire twice to show but don’t cut the wire, just like a cab pendant. Now, work “off the stone,” or cameo as we are speaking of, and make the needed wire pulls on what would be the “front” of the frame. Place the cameo inside and then make the pulls on the back, locking the shell into the frame. When forming the bail, rather than using the last two wires on the back, use the next two wires (which are half-hard).

There you go! You have made a traditional wire frame for a cameo pendant without risking scratches on the front or the back of the shell, it still has a solid frame because the half hard wire is in the middle of the frame and now protects the edges, and the bail is stable because you were still able to use half-hard wire to create it. Let us know how it turns out, Barbara!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Ask Your Tip of the Day Question Here!
Have a Question? Click Here to Submit Your Question

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email

Daily Wire Tip Sept. 6: Rescuing a Prong Setting

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 6, 2011

Question:

Hi Dale, I was making a prong ring today and as I was setting my stone, one of my prongs broke. Is it safe or even possible to set a stone with just 3 prongs or is this setting now scrap? Thanks so much! Love your tips!

-Cindy in Lake Station, Indiana

Answer:

Hello Cindy, you are not alone! Unfortunately no matter how careful we think we are, sometimes a prong gets snapped off anyhow. It is possible that the prong was bent too many times or there was a nick in the wire that you didn’t see, causing it to be weak and “snap”! off it goes. Bummer. This usually happens near the very finish of the project. Depending on the project, you “could” make it a new design by using the “middle” wire (hoping you used at least 5 wires in the original bundle) to cross over the stone in an attractive way that also acts as part of the main construction to hold the stone “in” the ring. If this execution is not possible, then into the scrap box it goes and you begin again.

True story: the 37ct amethyst ring that folks have seen me wear in class (and maybe on a few DVD lessons) only has 3 prongs! Not only is this a huge stone, but it has a very unusual cut with an odd pavilion. While trying to get one of the prongs to fit correctly, I overworked the wire and off the prong snapped! Frustrating? Yes! Give up? No! I manipulated one of the crossover wires to act as a prong replacement, and I have been wearing it for more than 12 years now. Good Luck!!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Ask Your Tip of the Day Question Here!
Have a Question? Click Here to Submit Your Question

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
August 22, 2011

Question:

Where do I find a chart for Viking weave to correlate dowel size, number of loops, and wire size to get a specific finished size piece? Such as what size wire, dowel, and number of loops produces a 4mm finished product?

-Barb in Hotchkiss, Colorado

Answer:

Hi Barb, I really don’t think you need such a chart. In my opinion and experience, if you wish to make a very small Viking Knit chain (you mention 4mm for the finished product) work on the smallest size dowel that is comfortable for you. The gauge of the wire will determine how many loops you will be able to make. (Of course, the fewer the loops, the more lacy the chain and the easier it will be to pull through a draw plate.) When the knitting is complete, keep pulling it through a draw plate (twice through each size) until it easily goes through the 4mm hole. Maybe some of our readers have another idea or experiences to share with Barb and all of us? (Thanks so much!!)

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Ask Your Tip of the Day Question Here!
Have a Question? Click Here to Submit Your Question

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
August 17, 2011

Question:

How do I determine what size of burr cup to buy for the different size wire gauges? For instance, I use 21-gauge wire for making ear wires. What size burr cup would I use? Is there a chart out there somewhere? Thank you!

-Bobbie in Miami, Florida

Answer:

Hi Bobbie, the size of the cup burr you choose should be just a hair larger than the wire you plan to use it on. For example, if you use 21-gauge (which is 0.723mm in diameter) to make ear wires, then you would want to use a cup bur of 0.8mm, or even the next size larger. To determine what size the wire is, check out our Conversion Table – American Wire Gauge to Inches and MM.

Cup Bur
Cup Bur Tool

Choosing your cup bur in this manner, you will find that one will fit several wire gauges. Our sister site, JewelryTools.com, has a great selection of cup burs, including some sets! Remember that these are very versatile as they can be used in either a hand holder or in your Dremel or automatic wire twister.

For those of you who may not know what a cup bur is or how to use it, Sonja Kiser made a nice video tip for us called Removing Wire Burrs.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Ask Your Tip of the Day Question Here!
Have a Question? Click Here to Submit Your Question

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email

 Page 2 of 55 « 1  2  3  4  5 » ...  Last »