Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 27, 2011

Question:

Dale, thank you for all the wonderful information you provide. I always see your rings with a wrapped shank. Other than purchasing a video, is there any way I could see how to do it, and what materials are needed?

-Michele in Clinton, Connecticut

Answer:

Hi Michele, you are welcome! I do enjoy working on the Daily Tips. To wrap the shank of a ring, you can use half round wire in gauges 21, 20, or 18: the choice depends on the style of ring you are making (heavy, lightweight, for a male or female) and what size the ring "turned out" compared to the desired finished size.

I know you imply that you do not wish to purchase a DVD, but I have to tell you that besides learning how to properly size rings and wrap their shanks accordingly, on the Ring Series DVD 1 I teach many, many skills and techniques to help a wire jeweler successfully make and sell a wide variety of wire ring styles! The information I share includes: choosing and using ring mandrels, sizers and mallet; why, when and how to make both full and partial ring shank wraps, as well as how to take custom ring orders, pricing tips and more!

Another option to learning about how to make wire rings (including the shank wrap) can be found in my book Wirework where the basic details are covered in both written and photographed steps. (No, the DVD that is included with this second edition of my book does not include anything about rings – sorry.)

I wish you all the best Michele, with your progress creating wire jewelry ring designs!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 25, 2011

Question:

Dale, thank you so much for your everyday tips. I love your book too! I’m struggling to pick out the right kind of Optivisor. What do 8", 14", and 20" actually mean? And how am I supposed to know what magnifying glass I need? Thanks a lot for your help.

-Irisha in Georgetown, Texas

Answer:

Hi Irisha, thanks so much! I am glad that all of the information I share is helpful to you. Now about Optivisors, the numbers you mention, 8", 14", and 20", relate to how closely you will need to hold your work to your eyes for the magnification to work properly. I like to recommend 14-inch to my students because this distance allows you to work without having to hold your work too closely, preventing strain on the back, neck and shoulders.

By "magnifying glass" I think you mean what power of lens that goes into the Optivisor. Most people use a 1.75 either with or without their prescription glasses. The greater the magnification, the closer to your eyes you have to hold the work to see it properly. We had a nice discussion about eye magnification devices in April that may give you some more insight called: Magnify Wire Jewelry with Optivisors.

Just remember that the further away you are able to hold your work and still see the details will prevent pain in your body!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 20, 2011

Question:

I want to make a bracelet out of 14x12mm oval faceted gemstones. I want to use prongs, but do not want it bulky. I cannot find snap sets in that size. I have called places and searched the web with no results. Do you have any suggestions?

-Cynthia in Buchanan, Georgia

Answer:

Sure, Cynthia, you can make prong settings for your small faceted stones from wire! Using the photo below for an example, instead of making a complete prong-frame (all around each stone), use 24-gauge wire to make two Half Frames, one for each side of the stone (wrap between the prongs with 21g half-round wire).

At each end, where the frame meets, use the same 24-gauge square to wrap the frame together, 2 times to show. Now, instead of using the remaining wires to make a bail and embellish (as you would on a pendant) use them to make a connection loop. For strength and durability while keeping all of your settings on the same plane, I would use a purchased Closed Jump Ring between each stone setting. Just remember to insert the ring into the connection loop at the end of a stone setting, before you wrap it closed (the same if you choose to use a purchased clasp such as a lobster claw or trigger style).

For those of you who would like to learn how to make a prong frame for cut stones, DVD 1 of the Advanced DVD series shows exactly how, including the formulas for stones of all sizes!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 18, 2011

Question:

My question is about how to hang or wrap faceted crystal briolettes that have a hole across the top. I have ruined so many of them when trying to insert a pinch bail, and even when trying to wire wrap them. Some of them are so fragile!

Besides crystals, I currently have one lot of vintage turquoise briolettes, and 2 lots of vintage quartz crystal briolettes, and I’ve already cracked the tops off of 2 of 4 that I’ve worked with. I’ve also had a problem with some moonstone nugget drops, where I cracked about 1/3 of the tops off. Do you have any tips for hanging these … besides being as careful as humanly possible?

-Sheryl in Eagan, Minnesota

Answer:

I know exactly what you mean Sheryl. Briolette beads are so elegant but some are really fragile! There are several ways to wire wrap a briolette, each depends on the look and the use of the bead. I did an Internet search using the phrase "wire wrapping briolette" and found several free tutorials as well as videos.

The easiest way I know of is to use thin round wire and chain. (Now I know that I am not supposed to link our Free Email Patterns to my Daily Tip answers, but without doing so I cannot explain this particular technique.) If you follow this link, Briolette Earrings Free Pattern, you will discover how easy my technique is!

The main thing to remember is that when you are making any bends on the wire inside a briolette, concentrate on putting any pressure down toward the bottom of the hole where the bead is thickest.

Here's another way to wrap briolettes: Take 26-gauge round dead soft wire., insert the wire through the hole, and carefully bend the wire up each side of the bead with your fingers. These briolette earrings are by Mint Schlief (see her comment below for full details).

If you don’t ready receive our Free Email Patterns, I really recommend that you sign up for them here: Free Jewelry Patterns by Email. The Wire-Sculpture Faculty and I work hard to bring you both simple and more complex Traditional Wire Jewelry Designs all based on important techniques.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 7, 2011

Question:

Hi Dale! I can definitely see the value of scoring the tips of the round nose pliers from the DVDs. May I ask your method of doing so? Have you set it up for loop mm size? It seems to me that would be the best for repetition. Thank you so much for all your motivation and guidance during the learning curve and beyond.

-Michele in Puyallup, Washington

Answer:

Thanks Michele, you are very welcome! Yes, after marking my round nose pliers in locations I used most often and having to constantly replace the ink marks, I used the edge of a small, square, diamond file to score my marks in permanently.

I really didn’t plan my marks to anything scientific or specific – I just marked them in locations I used most often. Such as: the size I need for making consistent wire bracelet connection loops (to insert a hook & eye clasp into); wrapped loops at the top of a headpin charm (depending on what the charm is being attached to), etc. My suggestion is to find your locations while you are working on projects, mark the pliers jaw with a permanent marker, and then score away!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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