Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 6, 2011

Question:

Hi Dale, first, I want you to know that your daily tips are invaluable to me! Thank you for sharing your expertise with those of us who are learning.

I am having a difficult time making wire spirals with 16-gauge wire. Specifically, I am having a hard time getting a good grip with my chain nose or flat nose pliers after the initial loop. The wire is so heavy I cannot get it to bend in a soft curve, without losing my grip. I wonder if I am using the wrong technique? I don’t have this problem with fine-gauge wire and I’ve even tried a WigJig, with no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Linda

-Linda in Castle Rock, Colorado

Answer:

Hi Linda, yes, working with heavy-gauge wires can be difficult. I have found that the difference between working with these wires and fine-gauge wires lies in both the tool and the technique. Here is the best way I have found to make spirals with both 18- and 16-gauge wire; you’ll need chain nose and flat nose pliers:

First, use chain nose pliers to make as small a loop as possible. Then use flat nose pliers to coax the end to meet the wire, forming a circle (rather than an oval). Next, hold the main wire so the loop is facing up. Now place flat nose pliers on the loop at about 5 o’clock (7 o’clock for the left-handed), meaning that the pliers will be holding the loop firmly about 2/3 of the way from its beginning. Grip the loop with the pliers, and use your opposite hand to bend the wire tail around the loop made, moving the flat nose pliers out of the way and then re-gripping the loop as necessary.

While it’s easy – and sometimes addictive – to make spirals in 20-gauge and smaller, like these "Best Ever Spirals", heavy-gauge wire needs a bit more guidance.

Of course, many other people have their favorite ways to execute spirals using heavy-gauge wire. Anyone else have a tip to share with Linda? (Thanks!!)

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
June 22, 2011

Question:

I want to make a pin or brooch. Is my wrapping wire going to be good enough for a pin? How about if I twist it?

-Kirsten in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Answer:

Hello Kirsten, I must tell you that I really don’t have a lot of information to go on, so I will give you a generalized response.

You ask if you can use your "wrapping" wire to make a pin with. If you mean a half round wire, then my answer is no. If the wire you are speaking of is a square wire, then it is possible. Think about what the pin or brooch is being created to hold; a cabochon or a collection of beads? And what do you intend the pin to adorn? Will it be a blouse, a sweater, or a jacket or blazer? When piercing a thin fabric, such as a blouse, it is my opinion that the wire used to create the actual "pin" component be round. With thinner fabrics, the item being held should be lightweight so the clothing is not damaged. If the pin is to be used for a sweater, then a twisted square wire can suffice, and it may be of a medium to large gauge like 18 or 20. When a brooch is made to be worn on a jacket or a blazer, the item being held can be a bit more heavy, like a cabochon, and either a larger-gauge round or square wire can be used to form the pin component.

The temper of a pin component is very important, because of the repeated bending. Personally I like to use #8/Spring Hard Round wire for making both pins and ear wires. This temper is difficult to find unless specially ordered in large amounts (like 3 or more ounces). A great substitute is to use a full hard round wire (most pins are 21-gauge). Then make it just a little bit harder by slightly twisting only the part that will be going through the fabric with an automatic wire twister or a pin vise.

To make the point as sharp as possible, use a really good pair of cutters (such as Xuron) to cut the wire at a severe angle, and use an emery board to file off the little burr left from the cutters.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip

Question:

Dear Dale, my hands are getting stiff (old age), and I have some problems wrapping the wire around the top of the pendant where the bail will be placed. Any suggestions?

-Judith in Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee

Answer:

Hi! Yes, I can certainly understand the challenges you are having as your body begins to rebel with maturity (it really has nothing to do with the fact that you worked hard when younger, does it?).

The best advice I can offer here is to be sure you are using the best possible tools for the tasks you desire to execute. I see so many "second wind" artists and crafters in my classrooms, who have been trying to follow jewelry making patterns by using hand tools that are very well worn (yes, you love them and although they have done a fabulous job for years, now they need to retire); as well as those folks who are just starting out (finally doing something they have always wanted to do) and who think that because they treat jewelry-making as a hobby that just any old tool will do, as long as it is similar to what the instructor recommends.

As you specifically mention wrapping wire around a bail to hold a frame together, this technique really is no different than wrapping a bundle together! The only difference is that the frame has two sides to wrap together, and is therefore twice as thick as the main frame bundle. This means that the hook made at the bottom of the wrap wire needs to be twice as wide, so it will easily fit over the two frame wires being joined together. After the hook has been put on and crimped, use the same method of wrapping each of the four sides, using flat nose pliers to hold the bundle while making a 90° bend at each of the four corners, and crimping with the flat nose pliers at each bend. Really, 2 wraps to show are all that is needed to hold the frame wires together, then form the bail and continue to use the same wrap wire to wrap in the bail wires, about 2 or 3 more wraps and it’s done! I hope this helps.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
June 9, 2011

Question:

Hi Dale, I just made a wire bangle bracelet out of square half hard wire. How do I harden it to retain its shape? I’m new at this and don’t have a clue! Thanks.

-Lisa in Beaverton, Oregon

Answer:

Congratulations Lisa! You have just made an heirloom piece of jewelry.

It has been my experience that when a bangle bracelet is created from square half hard wire, there is no need to find additional ways to harden it. As you wrapped the wire bundle, the wrap wires hardened, which will keep the main construction firmly together. After finishing the bundle, while you shaped the bracelet around either a found item or a mandrel, the base wires were hardening. Bouncing the clasp ends toward one another helps to further harden the formed shape. Most wire artists make their bracelets in the same oval shape as a human arm. In this manner, when the finished piece is worn, it shouldn’t spin around easily, which could cause the bracelet to lose its shape.

Of course there are some folks who like to play it safe by putting their finished jewelry into a tumbler with a bit of burnishing compound or Dawn dish detergent and mixed steel shot to get a final shine and further harden their finished creation. The choice is yours!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip

Question:

Could you give me some tips on how to hammer to flatten wire without leaving marks? I just can’t seem to keep it smooth!

-Lindsay in Goshen, Indiana

Answer:

Hi Lindsay, the main reason some folks have challenges with not denting wire which they are flattening with a chasing hammer, is usually a combination of the tool used and the technique used.

"Chasing" is the process of bringing the hammer down onto metal, and then quickly sweeping it to the side. When we use a metal flat head chasing hammer, often the hand twists, resulting in the edge of the flat head hitting the wire with some force, thus denting it. To remedy this situation, you can either practice bringing the hammer straight down and then off to the side, or invest in a half dome chasing hammer, and never worry about dents again!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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