Hello Wire-Artists !

I’d like to take this opportunity to respond to the many comments we have received from you through our ‘Tips of the Day’, regarding the fact that Wire-Sculpture is returning to the basics of the original site: Wire!

Yes, we will still be answering questions about gemstones, rocks, tumbling, cleaning techniques, show and sales tips, beads on wire, pricing, and anything that pertains to the many facets and various styles of wire jewelry design.

However, over the years Wire-Sculpture had begun to branch out into the huge arena of ‘jewelry-making’. As most of you know, there are many fabulous sites on the Internet today, hosted by experts in each individual aspect of the jewelry-making world, such as soldering; PMC; casting; watch-repairing; skills for the silversmith and goldsmith; and beading (both seed bead art and stringing), to name just a few. But, there is not one site dedicated to the Wire Jewelry Artist, providing the supplies, resources, information and education for those interested and involved in wire jewelry design.

As the name implies, Wire-Sculpture was originally the one site I am speaking of and it is back to being this important resource that we are returning, to fill the needs of the Wire Artist Jeweler.

I do appreciate your comments, and constructive critic. (You may already have noticed that many of our jewelry-making supplies are on clearance right now, to make room for our awesome, NEW, Wire Jewelry Designer Supplies!)

Stay ‘Twisted’!
Cougar

As a wire-jewelry instructor I travel all over the United States, quite often arriving at my destination the evening before a class. These days, for a weekend of workshops I enjoy driving no more than a maximum of 12 hours one-way, so I fly a lot. If I show up and my tools don’t, (because they were in a ‘lost’ piece of luggage), I’m almost devastated! Therefore I carry most of my tools and jewelry-making supplies on the plane with me. (I can always buy an extra outfit of clothing and personals if needed, but without my tools I am handicapped. )

When packing my carry-on, I do have to take its weight limit into consideration, by checking with whichever airline I’m using for a particular trip. Just for this purpose, I have invested in a great bag with hard sides and really good wheels that is within the size requirements for all airlines. Due to the size of some planes, often I have to check my bag plane-side while boarding, but I can also pick it up plane-side when I land, so my most important supplies are never really in a location to be opened without my knowledge!

To be able to pass through airport security easily, the way finished jewelry, tools and supplies are packed is extremely important! I use a foot-long, heavy plastic pencil box with a sturdy snap-lock, (found at most office supply stores), to stack all of my hand tools in, making sure that my cutters have a plastic cap on them, and that they are on top of all of my other tools. Also included in this box are a foot-long ruler, heavy emery board, marker, pin vise and a roll of tape, with a cushion-style mouse pad folded in the top to keep everything in place, (as well as being my favorite work-surface). None of the included hand tools is more than seven inches long, and I do not carry scissors. (Just for possible proof that I know what I am doing, I also print out and carry a copy of the TSA ‘tool rules’ with me.) http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/prohibited/permitted-prohibited-items.shtm#7

When I go through security, I open this pencil box, exposing all of the tools inside, and place it into its own tub to go through the x-ray machine. (Only once did a TSA agent remove one of the longest pliers and measure them, my Swanstrom flat-nose, only 6-1/8 inches!)

Traveling Toolbox

Because I totally believe that if one is totally prepared nothing will happen, I also carry a large, shark-skin, USPS Priority mailing envelope, self-addressed to my home, with prepaid postage on it, just in case I ever have something ‘not’ get through!

The items that I cannot take on a plane include my stainless steel ring mandrel, any power drills/screwdrivers, any mallet or hammer and my favorite ‘ring-making’ knife. These items I put into a large zip-loc bag, tape my business card inside with them and pack, under my pillow and on top of my clothes, in my checked luggage. (If I am flying to a location for a long-term workshop, I find it easier to ship these items ahead of me.)

Packing my finished jewelry samples takes a bit more time, as I place each item including individual earrings, into its own small zip-loc bag and then put all of the baggies into another snap-loc, heavy plastic box. My optivisors travel nicely wrapped in tissue paper in yet another box, with my digital camera nestled within the optivisors; while all of my sterling, argentium and 14kgf wire coils are in labeled manila envelopes, in one two-gallon zip-loc bag. Loose gemstones, cabs, beads and findings are group-bagged and placed into a small, lock lid plastic container, which goes into a zip-loc bag, (just in-case).

Now for the fun! Playing ‘Tetris’ with all of these boxes and my main carry-on. Actually, packing all of my supplies in individual containers makes this job very easy, (as well as knowing ‘what is where’ when I need to unpack for classes). Obviously the heavier supplies go across the bottom, the optivisor box near the top of the carry-on, and the bag of wire coils goes on top of everything else, just under the zipped cover! In this way, when going through x-ray the coils are easily seen. (I also pack the charger for my laptop in this bag.)

My second carry-on is usually my laptop and its case, which is also where I carry the above mentioned self-addressed, prepaid postage bag with a sheet of bubble wrap inside, my date book, cell phone and wall-charger, gum and wallet. (If you have ever been seriously delayed in an airport, you will want your wall charger with you! Who needs a hair brush?)

I go through security, in this order: I take my laptop out of its case and it goes into a plastic tub, http://www.tsa.gov/press/happenings/simplifying_laptop_bag_procedures.shtm

My boots and ‘quart-sized’ zip-loc go into another, http://www.tsa.gov/311/index.shtm my opened toolbox into another, then the laptop case and finally my main carry-on. When sending my things through in this order, I usually pass through the metal detector as my main bag is going through the x-ray machine, and if the TSA agent has any questions about the contents of my main bag, I am right there to request a Private Screening area, before they begin to open it in public.
http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/assistant/editorial_1847.shtm It is your right to request a private screening!

Once I have successfully passed through security, I put my quart-sized zip-loc and my tool box into my main carry-on and continue schlepping on to the gate.

Yes, I have had to have many, MANY private screenings! Whenever I fly out of Philly, I just plan extra time for one. Out of a group of eight returning from a vacation to Thailand, whom do you think got pulled by US customs and had every single item removed from every single bag?? Yup, it was me.

Because I do spend a lot of time in airports, I often wonder just what some people were thinking as they dressed for their travels, as I have seen some really unusual ‘fashion statements’. My advice is not only to dress comfortably, but also think about getting through security easily and not looking like a ‘mark’ to any unscrupulous individuals.
http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/screening_experience.shtm

All of this being said, I recommend that you always check for carry-on weight guidelines with whatever airline you are using, and that you be very familiar with all of the current TSA rules, before you leave for the airport!

Travel safe and ‘Stay Twisted’! Dale/Cougar

I’ve presented the title to this article as a quote because it has been my email ‘signature line’ for more than a year, to answer to the question I am most often asked:

“Where does your inspiration come from?”

This is the most frequently asked and can be the most frustrating question for almost all artists in every medium, (be they authors or writers, painters, sculptors, actors, architects, chefs, clothing designers, etc.). The various reasons can include that those who admire our work for whatever reason, would like to know if their thoughts align with those of the artist, or to have more of a story/explanation for the way an artist created and then named a certain work.

An artists’ inspiration does come from every ‘Where’ and every ‘Thing’! Many artisans, whom I have the honor to know and to work with, take photographs of objects, people, and landscapes; every ‘Thing’ that catches their eye. They carry a small digital camera or a cell phone camera every ‘Where’ they go, so a possible inspiration for future works is rarely lost.

Resulting Pendant: 'Agate Butterfly'

Butterfly Pendant Inspiration

Some folks always have a small sketch book within reach for the same reasons, as often a simple rendering of the lines within an architectural structure or the way a tree branches that needs to be drawn to be remembered. One freelance writer friend frequently begins his stories at the end and works backwards, while listening to a certain type of music, and another starts her adventures in the middle and then fills in the details on each side, (similar to laying out a stone and some corresponding beads for a piece and then figuring out how to make them all come together).

Humm . . . pendant frame?

Occasionally, raw emotion is the total reason for a design and by using whatever shapes and colors the artist visualizes as their mind-set, he or she combines all of the ingredients with their art form, resulting in a physical release. Then there are the folks to whom I personally refer as ‘scientific artists’. These individuals actually ‘see’ their designs within written mathematical formulas and the like, transferring them into physical works of art!

Maybe Earrings?

Many years ago, I worked as an advertising artist and one of my resources was a collection of ‘cut-books’. These were published volumes that contained a selection of black and white line drawings which an artist could use for free, to help speed up certain jobs. Using this idea/inspiration within my jewelry training sessions, I cover the simple ways of creating your own inspirational ‘cut book’. First purchase an inexpensive photo album and then browse through the variety of catalogues received in your mail, and cut out every ‘Thing’ that you find interesting. (These items may include nick-knacks, prints of framed pictures or posters, the pattern of a piece of clothing, a colorful vegetable dish, etc). Another idea is to ask a local salon to save all of their old magazines for you! These can include many typical subject choices, such as fashion, wedding, and prom, but also wildlife and sports titles, where you will find ‘Things’ you may not have considered ‘inspirational’ before! Put all of these pictures into that photo album, in a random order, (upside down, sideways), creating collage pages. When your brain hits ‘artists’ block’, prepare your favorite beverage, relax and open your ‘cut book’. Look through it from the front first, then turn it upside-down and look at it again! You will be amazed at what can ‘happen’ within your designs. (I do have to warn you though, often a design idea that you ‘think’ you are going to make sometimes develops a mind-of-it’s-own during the creation process, and when completed looks nothing like your original plan!)

A page from my 'Cut-book'

The ‘inspiration’ for this article comes from Wire-Sculpture’s ‘Inspired Druzy’ wire jewelry design contest, for which I currently judged the $1800 Grand Prize. What an amazing chore! ‘Amazing’, because the required 150-300 word essays, (describing where the contestant obtained ‘their’ inspiration for the design they created), and the appropriate ‘titles/names’ of each piece, (that ties the written inspiration into each artists’ piece), are wonderful. ‘Chore’, because these pieces have got to be some of the most creative I’ve seen in a while and I had a most difficult time deciding which would win one of the largest prizes ever offered in an Internet wire jewelry design contest!

The Official Judging Process

The requirements to enter this contest were basically simple. Each participant was required to send both a front and a back picture of each design they wished to submit, accompanied by a 150-300 word essay that described the inspiration for their design, along with an appropriate title. The only required purchase was for the participant to have bought their Druzy cabochon from Wire-Sculpture, (where prices run from just $17 to $48 depending on the size). My judging was based on 100 total points; 30 for originality, 30 for creativity and 40 points for the ‘inspiration’ that combines each design with its’ essay and name.

(I do have to mention that several folks did not send a picture of the backside of their design, which was needed to properly judge the creativity of the techniques executed, and that a ‘formal’ essay was not required, just the artists’ thoughts that transmitted into their piece.)

When YOU view all of these amazing pieces, please take the time to read the accompanying essay to discover if you can ‘see’ through that particular artists’ eyes! From the spectacular and calm ocean and water themes, (including delightful Pond Scum), to foods, music, stars and star ships, odes to beloved pets, vacation memories and pieces that were from the artists’ heart of hearts, you will enjoy every piece more with their story and then realize just how very difficult my decision was.

We invite you all to please participate in the Popular Vote. Just click http://www.wire-sculpture.com/pages/druzy_submission.html and vote for your favorite! (Voting ends on September 10, 2009.)

I’d also like to take this opportunity to publicly thank each and every wire artist who participated in this contest. My goal was to encourage you to ‘think outside of your box’, enabling you to see your designs in a different way, resulting in more creativity for YOU and hopefully better sales at your upcoming festivals and shows.

Of course, these are just a few of the ways many artisans answer that age-old question. I am sure that many of you have your own personal techniques, and I invite you to comment on this post and share them with our ‘Wonderfully Wired World’!

Here’s wishing all of you Great Inspirations, (as for me, I’m already thinking of our next contest theme!)

Stay ‘Twisted’!

Dale/Cougar

Twisted wire can add style, dimension, and elegance, flash or fun to a wire jewelry design. Sometimes twisted wire is a major player, placed where it is to be seen and sometimes it is added in obscure places to add interest to a design such as within the sides of a framed cabochon. Having received a number of questions from those who are a bit confused as to how to twist wire, what to twist and when to use it, my hope is that this article enables you to have more fun using twisted wires in your jewelry designs.

Let’s begin by looking at a variety of ‘wire twisters’, and how to use them.

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Wire_Twisting_Pliers_6_Inch_Pack_of_1-5948-0.html

These are called “wire-twisting pliers”. They are basically a pair of large, heavier pliers with an attached pin vise that has a spring-loaded handle. After cutting the desired length of wire to be twisted, one end is tightly secured to a solid surface such as winding it around a nail on a bench or a wall, (or having another person hold the end firmly in a heavy pair of flat-nose pliers). The operation is to then insert the other end of the wire(s) through a hole at the back of the plier’s jaws and then into the end of the pin vise. After locking the wires tightly into the pin vise, the round knob at the end of the pin vise is pulled out and let go, causing the spring mechanism within the pin vise unit to twist the wire(s). It can be continuously pulled and released until the wire is twisted to satisfaction, and would be best used for lengths of wire18-inches and longer. After the desired twist has been achieved, open the pin vise to release the wire and pull it out of the pliers, then unhook the wire from the nail or other secured end. Yes, these pliers can be used to twist either a single or most multiple wire combinations.

My personal opinion: yes these pliers work, however I feel that they are a bit archaic since one can get the same results using either a hand-held automatic screwdriver or drill that is easier to use, and costs about the same or less than these cumbersome pliers. Also, these wire-twisting pliers only allow you to twist in one direction.

A cordless power screwdriver is a small, compact unit that can be used to twist either a single or most multiple wire combinations easily. It has a chuck end, (the opening used to insert a variety of bits), that will not close around any wire, and therefore a hex chuck needs to be inserted into the bit opening. (See description below) Procedure: place the end(s) of the length of wire(s) to be twisted into the chuck and spin the chuck tightly closed around the wire(s). Hold the opposite end of the wire firmly in a pair of flat-nose pliers and push the button in either the forward or the reverse direction and twist until the desired effect has been obtained. Open the chuck and release the wire. (Having the option of either forward or reverse is nice when planning wire designs as discussed later.) Most power screwdrivers include an A/C adaptor that can be used to charge the unit for use without electricity. The A/C adaptor is also a nice feature as when the charged power has run out, the unit can still be used while plugged into an electric source and charging. Yes, a power screwdriver can be used to twist really long lengths of wire, gauges 12 and smaller.

My personal opinion: As a power screwdriver will keep its charge for quite a while, this is a nice unit to take to shows and to travel with, (however please remember that although one is not allowed to take a power tool ‘on a plane’, it can be in your checked luggage). While working a show, I like the option of having a single tool that has multiple uses because sometimes I need a screwdriver or drill too! The only drawback to using a power screwdriver is the fact that with most styles, a separate chuck has to be inserted to hold the wire and when used you have to be careful not to pull both the wire and the chuck out of the unit. The answer is simple, try not to ‘pull’, just hold the wire taunt with the flat-nose pliers, and if it pulls out, just put the chuck back in and continue twisting. Or, if you think you will never use the power screwdriver for anything other than twisting wire, the hex chuck can be glued into it. (See picture below that shows how to ‘hold’ wire(s) when twisting)

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/3_Prong_Wire_Twister_Head-3518-0.html

This little gem is called a keyless hex chuck and is the unit inserted into the end of most power screwdrivers when they are used to twist wire(s). (See above)

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Automatic_Wire_Twister_1_5_lb_7_25x7_0_Inches-3516-0.html

Another unit used to twist very long lengths of either a single or about all multiple wire combinations is a power drill. Most power drills have a chuck end that will spin down tight enough to securely hold a single wire, however if yours does not, simply insert a just the end of a sliding pin vise or a hex chuck into the end and tighten the drill’s chuck around it. (Inserting any pin vise in its entirety will limit being able to use the reverse mode of the drill as the ends of pin vises are threaded and will screw off! (See picture below.) Yes, both a corded and a cordless drill can be used to twist wire, a cordless being more convenient.
My personal opinion: One of my favorite tools! I absolutely love a cordless power drill for twisting long lengths of wire in many gauges, (I use up to 10g). Over the past years, I have used a variety of brands and burn one up about every two years or so, due to the amount of wire I use. The only drawback is that a power drill can be cumbersome to travel with, so I also own and regularly use four cordless power screwdrivers, when I teach and work shows.

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Swivel_Head_Pin_Vise-3514-0.html

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Double_Ended_Pin_Vise-3519-0.html

These are two types of pin vises. The one on the top is a ‘Swivel Head’ and the one on the bottom is a Double Ended or better known as the ‘standard’ pin vise. Each is used in the same manner, twist one of the heads to open the inset jaws and then insert the end of a single piece of wire, (or two or three small gauged wires), into the center and twist the head tightly closed around the wire(s). Hold the opposite end(s) of the wire(s) firmly with flat-nose pliers and twist the pin vise with the other hand until the wire is twisted to the desired look. Then twist the head open to release the wire. With regards to wire jewelry creation, these units are most often used to twist shorter lengths of wire, from ¼-inch to 12-inches. Each of these two pin vise styles can be used to twist separate segments on the same wire, (as the swivel head is removable). This is done by either opening both ends, or by removing the end opposite that which is to hold the wire, and inserting a longer length of wire through the entire pin vise, so only a short length is protruding from the tightened end. Hold this end with flat –nose pliers and twist to desired effect, then open the tightened end and slide the untwisted wire through to the desired length, hold that segment where desired with flat-most pliers and twist the part that is between the flat-nose pliers and the tightened end of the pin vise. Repeat the procedure until the entire wire length has been twisted in whatever segments are planned. For example, a 12-inch wire could be twisted every other inch and then used in the planned design. Either pin vise will work to twist a single wire up to a 16g. When either pin vise is used to twist multiple wires, the best results happen when using no more than 2 wires at a time, in gauges 22 and smaller. Most often, either of these units is used to twist a single wire.

My personal opinion: The only benefit to owning either of these styles of pin vise is in having the option of twisting certain segments on a single wire. Each is small, compact and can be traveled with easily. As for twisting single wires when embellishing a design, it takes a bit of time to unscrew the head, inset a short segment of wire, screw the head tight around the wire, twist a few times and then unscrew the head to release the wire.

http://wire-sculpture.com/wire-twisters/Sliding_Pin_Vise-3493-0.html

Pictured here is a thumb-operated or Sliding Pin Vise. It will perform all of the duties listed for the other two just described and works the same way. The main benefit of this marvelous device is that it takes a fraction of the time to set-up and use. Center and insert the end of a single, or up to two small wires, into the rounded end, use your thumb to push the knurled slide up the end, until it has tightly enclosed the wire(s) and twist. Use your thumb to push the slide down to release the wire(s). Please note that pin vises are most often used to twist a single, shorter wire.

My personal opinion: The Sliding Pin Vise is one of my favorite tools. When I am embellishing a piece of wire jewelry, I find this unit easy to use, fast and very convenient. The only drawback is that you can not use it to twist in a counterclockwise direction, without holding onto just the head, immediately below the knurled slide, as the head will twist off; making it inconvenient for those who prefer to twist using their left hand.

Holding Wire While Twisting
Although a pair of chain-nose pliers can be used, I prefer to use flat-nose pliers to hold the opposite end of the wire I am twisting. The larger surface area inside the jaws of a flat-nose give more stability and you do not have to hold them in a ‘death grip’, thus preventing possible damage to your hand or wrist.

Place about 1/8-inch of the wire end into the jaws of flat-nose pliers, about mid-way down the jaw. Hold the pliers so they are vertical to the horizontal position of the wire, grip firmly and hold the wire so it is just tautly and twist away! (If you hear a ‘clicking’ noise coming from the flat-nose end, you are not holding the wire tightly enough and the wire is turning within the flats!)

Before you ask; Yes! It is normal for a wire to occasionally twist tighter at each end when compared to the twist in the center, especially when using a type of ‘power’ tool. Sometimes this happens because the person using the tool is not consistent with the pressure/speed at which they are operating the power tool and sometimes it’s just the nature of the wire and how it was milled to being with.

You could take this in account when planning the wire’s length and cut it about an inch longer, (as it will twist more tightly for about ½-inch at each end), and then cut those ends off. Rather than waste wire, I suggest that you don’t stress over this little issue; you are creating a handmade item that is not supposed to look ‘machine made’!

What Wires??
I receive a lot of questions with regards to confusion about the sizes, shapes and tempers of wire to twist . . . . or not to twist. Let’s talk about the shapes most commonly used in wire jewelry design.
Square:
• When an individual square wire is twisted, the resulting appearance is similar to a diamond cut chain, which is referred to as a ‘bead’.
• Although two individually twisted square wires can then be twisted together, due to the difficulty in getting each individually twisted to the same ‘bead’, the result will more than likely be a looser twist as the two twisted wires will seem to repel each other.
Round:
• A single round wire cannot be twisted to get a ‘party streamer’ or coiled appearance!!
• Two or more round wires can be put into a wire twister and twisted together.
• Round wire can be twisted around a square wire.
Half-round:
• Half-round wire can be twisted around a square or a round wire.
• Half-round wire can be twisted individually

Facts to Remember:
• Twisting any temper of wire will harden it! (Therefore I recommend that when 19 gauge or larger square wire is twisted before using, that you use dead soft.)
• The more tightly any wire is twisted, the thinner and weaker the wire becomes; therefore take care when working a tightly twisted wire using complicated techniques.
Examples:
If a tightly twisted wire is made into a rosette or spiral and that rosette is then folded over at a hard angle, the wire may break!
If a twisted wire is used as the top wire on a framed stone, when that wire is tightly pulled over the stone the wire may break!

I hope this answers a few of the many questions I’ve received about ‘twisting wire’.

“Stay Twisted!!”

Dale/Cougar
DaleCgr@wire-sculpture.com

Here is a video you may find helpful: Extremely Easy Ways to Twist Jewelry Wire, by Sherrie Lingerfelt.

By Dale Armstrong – I guess the best way to talk about this subject is to tell you my story. While I was working at a restaurant I began selling my jewelry to co-workers. A well-known artist, who lives locally, saw my work and invited me to participate in her nationally known art show. Of course I was excited and said yes!

Now, I have to stop here and tell you that this show was two weeks away and having only ever visited a variety of art shows and craft festivals around the country, I had no earthly idea as to what I was getting myself into! I had no tent, no display items, no ‘anything’ that I needed. So I turned to a co-worker (you now know as my friend and faculty member ‘Stained Glass Lindi’) and asked if she wanted to do the show with me, adding her beautiful glass pieces. She agreed and then admitted that she also was clueless about how to get things together.

The following weekend I paid a visit to another local show, just to ‘walk it’ with a different eye, looking at how vendors had their booths set-up, what type of tents were available, etc. Obviously I was supposed to get into this business, because when I stopped to question an older woodworker about his type of tent, he offered to sell it to me the next day (at show closing) for just $100 because he had decided to retire. OK, now I had a tent! And a good one at that, with metal bars you could ‘chin’ on. (And while the gentleman took it down, I had to number each of the zillion pieces with a magic marker so I knew how it went together again.)

Display items and tables were my next goal. I choose a wooden rack (the kind that goes on the back of a commode) to which I added lots of screw-in hooks so I could hang my hand-made earring cards. (Poster board cut with scissors and holes made with a small paper-punch, labeled also by hand.) At a local yard sale I picked up a couple of tall, plastic, soda displays and had my husband use his grinder to remove the logos and names. My main table was a fold-up aluminum one borrowed from Lindi, who had used it for years while doing wallpaper work (and it was more than a bit wobbly). A folding chair was borrowed from our travel trailer as well as a rug, and as I had worked for a direct sales company in the past, I had some great, blue tablecloths. We all thought I needed more color, so I draped a Mexican blanket over the blue. Now I had to find some type of cover for the holes in those soda displays, and as sewing is not my thing, I bought and cut some felt in the same colors as the blanket (no hemming necessary).

To display my pendants I just used U-shaped jewelry pins and attached each piece to the velvet boards I used inside my storage trays. Rings and bracelets went into the one glass topped box I had to keep cabochons in. All of the signage was made out of paper, printed on my computer, and then covered with adhering clear plastic (I think I found in the cabinet lining section of a department store). And although my very first business cards were quite sad, they did have my name and address on them, and a brief description of what I make and sell.

The result? Well, during that first three-day show I about sold out! I also received several show applications in the mail from other promoters who liked my work enough to invite me to participate in their show. Not bad for a two-week learning experience. Needless to say, over the years I became more professional with my set-up and displays, but not all at once! After all, this was my ‘hobby business’ and I was not going to take funds out of the household to make it happen. Rather, after every show I took my profits and purchased one or two more items (a lot of which I still use today).

The lesson from this experience is: you do not need a lot of expensive display items and professional equipment to get started! Look around your home, basement, garage and those of your family and friends. You will be amazed at what your imagination can do with a few simple items. After all, your jewelry is what people are coming to see and hopefully purchase.

Today one can begin participating in outdoor art and craft shows quite inexpensively due to the selection of affordable tents available from a variety of companies. Check your local department store or ‘wholesale’ club for some nice choices. If you are an outdoors person, you probably have a few good tarps that could be used to begin with, for no additional cost. Colored sheets make great table covers (I still use a lot of those today) and about every computer comes preloaded with a good design program so you can make your own business cards and signage.

Choosing the right show for your work is very important. If it is a local or ‘drive’ show (no hotel/motel necessary) and the booth fee is reasonable, sure, give it a shot. However I always advise my students to ‘walk’ a more expensive or ‘travel ’show first. Yes this means not participating in it right away, but take the time to make the drive and check out the local area for restaurants and a decent place to spend the night, besides ‘walking the show’ to see what types of vendors and items are included, how the promoter seems to be handling things (or if you can even find them) and ask vendors questions. (More on this in a future article.)

Here are examples of different types of booth set-up and displays, according to the venue. The photo below was taken at a high-end sci-fi con, where in addition to their gallery table, each juried artist also has the option of purchasing one 6-foot table. No, that’s not a lot of space and it depends on what you are doing as to how to set it up. This costumed artist was using her space to demonstrate her art form that in turn generated customers interest, who then paid a visit to her gallery table and made their purchases from it. (Atlanta, GA)

The following picture is of a display at an art gallery where the artist was ‘the feature’ and her work is only priced via a list in the customers program. (Boston, MA)

I don’t know about you, but I have found that most people will NOT walk INTO a jewelry booth! (Maybe they are intimidated by thinking they have to purchase an item as admission or something.) To counter this situation (with the exception of my first 2 shows) I never set-up so people have to walk in! Instead, I set my tables up around the perimeter of my space, which puts a boundary between them and me. (Maybe they feel safer this way?) When they walk by my tables I just say ‘Hi’ and tell them ‘what’ they are looking at, describing my art form. If they are interested, I can always come around the tables to help them try things on. (Dothen, AL)

Yes, not being on the end of a booth row can limit your space if you set up around the perimeter, as you would only have about 10-feet of space. My solution to this challenge is to make my own aisle. (Virginia Beach, VA)

After many years of participating in shows all over the United States, I finally have one basic set-up that I now use all the time, with variations being made just by changing the table covers or the holiday theme, (and I still add one new display item every year). Life is good. (Bmghm, AL)

Yes, I like to have most of my work displayed in covered cases. Not only do cases prevent jewelry items from developing limbs and disappearing, but they also protect my work from dust and dirt. (You would be amazed to see how much lint and dust collects on the safety glass tops, within just a few hours ‘indoors’!) And if you are wondering how I fill my cases, I choose to display my items by what I personally feel go together, rarely the same combination twice, and usually surround a higher priced item with a variety of mid to lower priced pieces. (I am also known for changing and moving the contents of my display cases around during a show.) Other folks like to group their work according to either color or material, and still others group by price. As seen in some of the above pictures, I also think that it is very important for customers to be able to freely pick up and try things on, so some of my bracelets are lying loose on my main table too.

You may also notice the little white squares along the edge of the cases. These are my prices. (I think tags are ugly and take away from the jewelry.) I cut small shapes from 3×5 cards and list the item name or the material it is made from and the price. (I know that if I walk into a jewelry store or booth and cannot see any prices, I think they are probably high and I couldn’t afford them anyways.) By using these small cards I can also change the price whenever I want, and not have to worry about cutting and threading, etc.

The arena of display and booth set-up ideas is HUGE! This is just a sample of things I have tried that I hope may help those of you who are wondering in which direction to head while thinking about participating in shows, or those of you who are looking for a fresh idea. (And for all of those who have asked me for such an article via our ‘tips’ submission form, thanks!)

Stay ‘Twisted’!

Dale/Cougar