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by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong, Wire-Sculpture.com

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
March 16, 2012

Today's Gem Profile is...

Included Quartz Part 1, one in a Series on Quartz

Shop Quartz Cabochons | Shop Rutilated Quartz Beads, Tourmalinated Quartz Beads

We have already learned that the microscopic inclusion of certain minerals are actually responsible for the color of a macrocrystalline quartz, such as: iron/amethyst, iron oxide/citrine and both iron forms in ametrine; aluminum, calcium, lithium or magnesium/smoky quartz; iron, manganese, or titanium/rose quartz; chromium mica/aventurine, and crocidolite with iron/tiger eye, tiger iron, and Pietersite; but what about "visible" inclusions?

"Garden Quartz", rutilated quartz, "Super Seven", it doesn’t matter what the marketing name is, wire jewelry designers LOVE using included quartz! Within this eighth article in my series on quartz, you will discover some of the more popular minerals that can be naturally included in macrocrystalline quartz. I will warn you ahead of time though, the list of minerals that can be trapped in quartz is extensive, therefore I will only write about those most often found in the cabochons and stones more readily available.

rutilated quartz wire wrap pendant

This 402ct example of a faceted rutilated quartz stone was made into a pendant by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong.

Basically there are three ways that a host of more than 45 mineral crystals could have become included in translucent to semi-translucent quartz. One example is when mineral crystals formed first, and then the silica/quartz filled in and solidified around the original material. Another situation would be when two or more minerals form in the same space and at the same time as the silica/quartz; or if the geological conditions were right while the quartz/silica was forming, another mineral entered the same area and took over part of the crystal structure.

rough rutilated quartz

Examples of windowed smoky and rough water clear, rutilated quartz. Notice the rutile crystal structure at the base of the clear quartz, meaning that these crystals probably formed before the quartz enveloped them.

Rockhounds and lapidaries often use the term "sagenite" or sagenitic quartz, to describe all types of included macrocrystalline quartz, especially those specimens that include rutile crystals. Probably the most well known and easiest to identify, rutilated quartz is when clear through semi-clear quartz contains slender needles of embedded titanium dioxide crystals. The rutile needles can appear to be in the shape of an open fan or radiating mass, known as acicular, or they can look like individual floating pieces of hair frozen forever in space. Those of us familiar with paints know that pure titanium dioxide is an important pigment used to produce a brilliant white, however due to trace amounts of other minerals, rutile crystals can be silver, red, reddish-brown, gold or yellow. When rutiles in a crystal appear to be more heavily concentrated at the bottom of the crystal than at its point, more than likely the titanium dioxide crystals formed first and then the quartz filled in around them, perfectly preserving the structure of the rutiles. Faceted stones or cabochons that visibly show rutile crystals in a star-like formation are rare and most desirable. Some of the other names for rutilated quartz include Venus Hair Stone and either Hair or Needle stone. Most of the rutilated quartz today is mined in either Brazil or South Africa.

rutilated quartz star formation

Although not a perfect example, this faceted rutilated quartz shows a "star" formation.

faceted rutilated quartz stones

Like most jewelry designers, I have a personal collection of beautiful, rutilated quartz stones in many colors.

rutilated quartz ring

Gold rutilated quartz made into a classic cabochon ring design by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong.

Other inclusions that may resemble titanium dioxide rutiles include epidote and actinolite. Although epidote is found in colors ranging from shades of almost black through brown and gray, it is best known for having long, thin crystal blades of bright through dark green. Similar to rutiles, epidote crystals may also form in fan shapes, or individually; thus the marketing label of "Grass Quartz" describes epidote crystal included quartz. Or does it?

Known as Thetis Hair or Byssolite, the mineral actinolite (meaning beam or ray) also forms in the same ways. Another type of asbestos, fibrous actinolite crystals can be found in the colors of white, gray, and black and also in shades of green that can be included in quartz! Perhaps vendors are labeling any embedded long, blade or needle like crystal in grassy colors as "grass quartz"?

grass quartz cabochon

A "Grass Quartz" cabochon. Are the included crystals epidote?

There are even more minerals that can be included in what you may think is "just" rutilated quartz! Along with gold, silver, mercury and pyrite, these include, but are not limited to:

  • Brookite – a form of titanium dioxide that can appear in quartz as red plates or blades
  • Anatase – rutile-like needles of black, honey yellow, brown, occasionally orange or blue, also a form of titanium dioxide
  • Goethite – brown to yellow splinter-like crystals, or wispy fibers
  • Hematite – crystals can be blade-like through cubes and plates, opaque reddish brown through bluish black

While I was going through my stock of included quartz looking for specimens to photograph, I came across a very pretty stone that I had not had the chance to identify yet. Research for this article leads me to believe that the red platy inclusions are either hematite, or lepidocrosite (see photo below).

red included quartz

While reading about this form of iron oxide, I remembered another beautiful stone that contains lepidocrosite, along with 6 other materials that is marketed as: "Super Seven", "Super 7" or "Sacred Seven". Now, I have to share my personal story about this particular material. In the mid 1990s, my stone man returned from his annual buying trip to South America with a very few, affordable faceted stones that appeared to be a tri-color quartz (amethyst, clear and smoky) with hematite and rutile inclusions. He and I decided to call it "rutilated amethyst".

amethyst with inclusions

Three years ago (2009) while shopping at the Tucson gem shows, I came across the same stone being marketed with a very high price tag as "Super Seven"! Evidently the number "seven" includes all of the materials that can make up the stone: lepidocrosite, clear quartz, smoky quartz, amethyst, cocoxenite, goethite and hematite. However not all of these are present in each stone but metaphysically it is believed that each stone contains all of the properties of each "possible" inclusion because the stone was formed at least "near" all of the possible components. Thanks to the Internet, I was able to discover that the well-known author of a series of metaphysical mineral books, Melody, is responsible for trade marking the name "SUPER SEVEN", under the classification of "stones"; also nicknamed "Melody’s Stone". Amazing.

super seven included quartz stones

Additional "Super Seven" stones in my collection.

Tune in next week, when I will continue talking about the many different inclusions that can be found in jewelry making quartz; including: tourmaline, chlorite, phantoms and more! Have you made wire jewelry with included quartz before, such as tourmalinated quartz? Email pictures to tips@wire-sculpture.com, and they could be featured!

Resources

Print Resources:

  • Mineralogical Record, vol. 24, no.4. pp 311-313. "Solid Inclusions". W.A. Henderson Jr. & M.H. Weber (1993)
  • The Peterson Field Guide to Rocks and Minerals by Frederick H. Pough, ISBN 0-395-24049-2
  • Simon & Schuster’s Guide to Gems and Precious Stones by Curzio Cipriani and Alessandro Borelli, ISBN 0-671-60430-9

Internet Resources:

Gem Profile by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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by Rose Marion, Wire-Sculpture.com

Wire Jewelry Idea for March 14, 2012

π Day, or Pi Day, March 14, is celebrated by math lovers because the date corresponds to the first 3 digits of pi: 3.14. (Mathematicians surely are counting down the days until 3/14/15) Pi is famous for being the ratio of the circumference of a circle to its diameter. The circumference is equal to the diameter, multiplied by pi (Wikipedia explains it thoroughly here). Pi continues to an infinite decimal place (over 2 trillion decimal places have been calculated by computers). There are famous competitions for memorizing and reciting Pi to hundreds of decimal places.

pi day on wire-sculpture.com

Since geometry and mathematics play an unsung role in jewelry design, why not take some time today to celebrate Pi? Here are 6 ideas I came up with for Pi Day, including several jewelry ideas. I’d love to hear what you do today to celebrate Pi in your wire jewelry making!

  1. Learn how to write Pi on the computer:
    On Windows, hold down ALT and type 227, then release ALT.
    On a Mac, hold down Option and type P, then release Option.
    It’s π in HTML.
  2. Make sorority or fraternity jewelry: Colleges and universities all over have several fraternities and sororities, which often use specific colors, as well as their Greek letters, in their clothing and jewelry. If you live near a university, why not contact the sorority and see if you can host a jewelry party? Use wire to mimic the shapes of the Greek letters to make pendants, necklaces, and earrings, and you can embellish with beads in the sorority’s colors.
    Remember, not just the usual sororities use Greek letters; local and national honor societies and many professional societies use the Greek alphabet to name themselves.
  3. Set aside 3.14 hours today to focus on jewelry-making: if that means skipping chores, so be it! (If you usually spend your day making jewelry – treat yourself to a "fun" break – no accounting work allowed!)
  4. Make a freeform or wire jig design in the shape of Pi. If it turns into something else, just go with it!
  5. copper forged pi pendant by rose marion

    Here's what I made first in my 3.14 hours today... Now that it's a little flattened, I think next this Pi is on to a texturing hammer! To finish, I'll turn the bail 90 degress, so it can slide right on as a pendant. Not my finest work, but I have a lot of ideas now for new pendants! Used 16 and 22-gauge round wire.

  6. Create headpin earrings with 3.14 beads each (the .14 can be a bead spacer, bead caps, maybe a zigzag in the wire between beads – your choice!)
  7. If you like baking more than math, think about choosing some color combinations from your favorite pies. Peach pie, cherry pie, lemon meringue pie, pizza pie… How about some "Pie with an E" -inspired jewelry?

Have a Wonderful Pi Day, and Happy Jewelry Making!

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by Rose Marion, Wire-Sculpture.com

Tool of the Week for
March 12, 2012

This week’s tool: Split Ring Opening Pliers, #PLR-588.00

Demonstration by Kate, JewelryTools.com

Split rings (those jump ring-like findings that are shaped like a key ring) are useful because they are hard to open – and that’s also why they’re a pain to use! Fortunately, you don’t have to use your fingernails, a pocketknife, or a metal ruler to try and open your split rings anymore. Simply squeeze with these Split Ring Opening Pliers, and you can slide your pendant, charm, or chain link right on the split ring!

To open a split ring, align the plier’s "tooth" between the two rounds of wire in the split ring, shortly below one of the wire ends. Squeeze the pliers together, and the tooth will gently open the split ring. It’s a cinch!

Click below to see these split ring opening pliers, only available on JewelryTools.com:
Split ring pliers
Click below to see split ring pliers on Wire-Sculpture.com:
Split ring pliers

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by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong, Wire-Sculpture.com

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
March 9, 2012

Today's Gem Profile is...

Tiger Eye, one in a Series on Quartz

Shop Blue Tiger Eye, Red Tiger Eye, and Brown Tiger Eye Cabochons | Shop Tiger Eye Beads

Imagine living in an exotic place like India or Africa, long ago, and noticing the eyes of a tiger peering at you through a field of elephant grass. Deep rich gold colored eyes, with flecks of bright yellow and pale green, and definitely chatoyant. This depiction also describes the macrocrystalline quartz we call tiger eye, and could very well be the origin of the name as tiger eye quartz is mined in both India and Africa. Although challenging for a lapidary, when the mostly straight fibers of this stone are oriented and cut properly, tiger eye is a perfect example of chatoyancy, shimmering like the eye of a cat. ("Chat" being French for "cat".)

Wet tiger eye rough

Rough tiger eye, photographed wet on my studio porch.

Tiger eye began as a type of blue riebeckite or asbestos, geologically known as silicified crocidolite. When the silky fibrous mineral crocidolite decomposed, and was replaced by quartz containing traces of iron minerals such as goethite, the beautifully banded brown and gold tiger eye was formed. There is no need to be worried about working with this material, because it is a pseudomorph of quartz "after" asbestos; and we all know that a lapidary should wear some type of face mask or respirator when cutting and grinding any stone!

Tiger eye donut chain necklace

Monica White created this necklace using a tiger eye donut and beads, and chain.


Tiger Eye bead bracelet

Tiger's eye bracelet, using tiger eye beads and formed wire, by Irisha Patterson

Natural blue to blue-grey tiger eye occurs when some of the crocidolite remains in the structure of the rock which has been named Hawks Eye; and Falcons Eye is what this material is called when a pale blue-gray is banded within the golden browns. Bi-colored tiger eye, found with both blue and green banding is very rare; the green coming from strands of yellow and blue being evenly dispersed. Although very rare, natural red tiger eye can be found; however, when brown tiger eye is heat treated, it becomes a rich mahogany red called Bulls or Ox Eye. When tigereye is commercially bleached, the result is a lovely honey color.

wire wrapped tiger eye ring and necklace

Wire wrapped Tiger Eye necklace and ring by Donna Geurin: Donna says, "My husband had had a necklace and clip earrings made for me 40 years ago and I had not worn them. When I started wire work (just before gold soared way up), I asked my teacher if we could reset these stones and you can see what resulted."

Rough tiger eye

While we were in Tucson this past February, at one of the hotel shows we saw thousands of pound of rough tiger eye for purchase. (Not me, I already had some!)

As a member of the quartz family, opaque through semi-translucent tiger eye has a hardness of 7 and has been a favorite carving and jewelry making material for centuries. Cameos, statuary, decorative tiles, building columns, ornamental carving of animals and urns have all been made of tiger eye, as well as cabochons and beads of many different shapes. Affordable and abundant, tiger eye is a very popular material with wire jewelry designers. Its natural, earthy shades of gold, yellows, and browns go with about any outfit and are a popular choice when making men’s jewelry, especially rings.

Carved tiger eye cameo

A carved big cat and a cameo, both made of brown/gold tiger eye.


Carved tiger iron perfume bottle

One of the perfume bottles in my collection is a great example of tiger iron from Australia (but carved in China).

Tiger eye is found mainly in South Africa, Australia, India, Arizona, California, and China. However, there are also a couple of different tiger eye forms that you may not have associated with the original material. Discovered in Western Australia in the 1970s, opaque tiger "iron" is a composite of bright brown/gold tiger eye with artistic bands of red jasper and metallic hematite; sometimes labeled Australian Tiger Eye, or tiger eye jasper.

Colorful tigereye necklace

Joani Mullan created this rich necklace and earring set using a combination of red tiger eye, blue tiger eye, and gold tiger eye beads, and copper wire.

Another interesting and very form of tiger eye was found in Namibia in 1962. This material is quite translucent and unlike regular tiger eye, its fibers are not straight and parallel to one another. Distributed throughout the quartz in irregular masses, these fibers can be of many different colors; red, red-gold and dark blue, occasionally with tints of green, resulting in the material we know better as Pietersite or the Storm Stone. Today most of the Pietersite on the market is mined in China; however, sources have told me that the mine has been flooded and therefore closed, thus justifying the high price of "good" Pietersite.

chinese blue pietersite

Some nice designer cabochons made of blue Pietersite from China. Private collection, Dale Armstrong.

brown and gold pietersite cabochons

While shopping at Cloud's Jamboree (then in Quartzite, AZ) I found a beautiful metallic looking brown and gold material that was labeled Pietersite. Obviously I brought some back for my husband to play with and I still have these (now rare) cabochons!

Used as a talisman in many cultures, tiger eye is said to protect the wearer from illness and evil as well as aligning ones Yin Yang energies. The only imitation of tiger eye is glass/fiber optics, so beware of anyone labeling an item as silver tiger eye, eagle eye, frogs eye, or any other name that doesn’t sound quite right to you! What can be mislabeled as “silver” tiger eye could be the mineral Binghamite or Silkstone, found in the state of Minnesota.

Quartz that has specialty minerals within it is generically known as "included" quartz, the subject of next week’s Gem Profile. Have you made wire jewelry with included quartz before? Email pictures to tips@wire-sculpture.com, and they could be featured!

Resources

Print Resources:

  • Love is in the Earth by Melody, ISBN 0-9628190-3-4

  • The Peterson Field Guide to Rocks and Minerals
    by Frederick H. Pough, ISBN 0-395-24049-2
  • Simon & Schuster’s Guide to Gems and Precious Stones by Curzio Cipriani and Alessandro Borelli, ISBN 0-671-60430-9

Internet Resources:

Gem Profile by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email


 

by Rose Marion, Wire-Sculpture.com

Wire Jewelry Resource for March 7, 2012

Putting your jewelry up for sale online is one avenue you can take toward your goal of selling your finished jewelry! Whether you just want to recoup the cost of materials so you can continue making jewelry, or you intend to make a good income from your side jewelry business (or full-time business!), sites like Etsy and Artfire are a great place to start.

My experience has been with Etsy so far in listing my jewelry. So those of you who have used ArtFire or Zibbet, I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below!

Checklist for Beginning Selling Jewelry Online

1. Research for available names. Make sure your desired business name, or a form of it, is available in these places (minimum):

  • Etsy
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Blogspot, WordPress, or another blogging platform (as well as a domain name, if you choose)
  • An email account (either yourbusinessname@yahoo, @gmail, another provider, or through your domain name)
  • Your state business licenses, and possibly the Federal TESS (Trademark Electronic Search System), which will tell you if someone else is using your business name as a trademark already

A unique business name is essential to having a memorable business, and it will also keep you protected. Nike is a unique name, but it’s taken! Once you “claim” your name with your state, no one else can use that business name in your state.

Assuming you’ve got all the licenses and ID numbers filed, you’re ready to register! Note, Etsy requires a credit card on file before allowing you to sell. I recommend you start your business “officially,” get a business checking account for your business, and then get a real debit or credit card from the bank, which you can use for your Etsy fees. (Speaking of fees – I found this neat Etsy calculator here, which may help you with pricing)

2. Find a pricing structure you like (I do this in a spreadsheet), and calculate what discounts you can afford to give while still covering your cost of labor, materials, shipping, and expenses.

This is also a good time to discover what shipping rates are available through the Post Office, so you can have an accurate shipping rate to charge. You can seperate the shipping charges by country; I specify a rate for the US, Canada, and then “everywhere else.” However, you can also offer free shipping IF you make sure that your shipping cost is factored into the price of the item – don’t offer discounts that will make your business unprofitable! As artists we sometimes feel “bad” profiting from our work, but that’s exactly why we start a business – so never feel bad about that.

3. Create your work. Does your jewelry have a general theme, such as Victorian, Steampunk, Medieval chainmaille, Modern? Do you have several pieces that you’re comfortable over and over and over, such as a cabochon pendant, a couple styles of earrings, and whatever other designs you love.

4. Photograph your work and transfer it to your computer. Add a watermark to your pictures if you like, using Photoshop, GIMP, Picasa, or another photo editor.

5. List your items on your store. On Etsy, listing each item can easily take 5-10 minutes (or more!) the first several times. I find it helpful to write a general description for similar items, which explains my brand and how the object has been created. Then I can copy & paste this description as I list all the items, and simply change the first descriptive sentences, customizing them to the specific piece. You have a lot of space, so try to answer any questions the customer might have.

Etsy’s description also allows you to use up to 13 tags and 13 supplies used in making the piece. You should use as many tags and supplies in your description as possible. For example, for my copper earrings (before I even think about what beads they have) I type in “copper wire, copper jewelry wire, brown wire” in the supplies. Then I think about the beads, if I used liver of sulfur, and a sealer. This will help people find your jewelry when searching.

6. If you’re tech-savvy, Google Analytics is a powerful tool you can integrate with your Etsy shop. Etsy has a how-to article all about this: http://www.etsy.com/help/article/230. I recommend doing this as soon as you set your shop up, so your analytics can start recording information right away. This will help you understand how your customers got to your shop.

7. Get involved! Now that your products are online, it’s time for you to network with other jewelry-makers so you can help promote each other’s products. Remember though: ultimately, you should be showing your customers how beautiful they will look and feel wearing your jewelry – don’t get caught up worrying if your Facebook friend’s pendant is photographed better than yours. It’s all about helping your jewelry find its new home!

Those are what I think are the basic steps to setting up your online store. Now comes the fun part, of promoting your jewelry and packaging the orders! Experienced Etsy, ArtFire, and Zibbet sellers, did I miss anything? Leave a comment below.

And remember, I’m always looking to hear your wire jewelry ideas. Have a tip for selling online? How do you get inspired? Discovered a new tool or shortcut? Let me know, and I’ll feature you with a link back to your site! Click here.

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