Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
May 16, 2011

Question:

I recently purchased some beautiful faceted stones from Wire-Sculpture, and now I want to wrap them into a ring using gold filled wire 22-gauge dead soft. Everything goes together well (thanks to your DVD lessons), but when I get to the prongs, they don’t stay where they are supposed to be, and the stone slips out easily. Do you have any hints as how you get your prongs to stay in place? Thank you for your answer.

-Gloria in Kettle Falls, Washington

Answer:

Hi Gloria, the reason your prongs will not stay in place (or possibly in shape) is because you are using dead soft wire! Please use half hard when making prong rings. In a small gauge like 22, half-hard wire is really not that hard to work with and actually will behave much better than soft because it will keep its shape after you have bent it, where you want it to be bent! Some folks teach and work in nothing but dead soft, however it will not hold up to a serious geometric design like the prong ring.

Think about it this way – yes, the soft wire will work harden where you make the prong bends, but the length that runs from the ring construction to the pronged end will still be soft; as such, it will have the tendency to bend where it wants to. Also, when you use the side wires to lock the prongs around the stone, these connections can easily pull a soft wire out of place.

I can’t speak for other instructors, but I know that when I specify a wire gauge and temper for a project, it is for very this very reason – they work! Now, try the design again using half-hard wire, and see if your prongs don’t stay where you would like them to be – and let me know how it works for you!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Just what the doctor ordered!
This article will go into depth about the 5 steps of soldering.

Step  1:  Fitting

Soldering is much more challenging when the two or more pieces of metals to be connected together do not make a fitted “join”; fitted join meaning the smooth, built-in or even point of connection with the other.  The edges that will be soldered together must have a fitted match to ensure a secure and lasting bond.  In order to do this, filing may be necessary.  Make sure that the surfaces are free of dents, warping, and kinks.  If joining two flat edges together (butt join), it is recommended to bevel the surfaces so that the metal or wire is overlapping the other.  This will allow for a strong joint.

Step 2. Cleaning

It is important that your metals are clean, and free of dirt, grease, and oil.  This is because solder will not flow on an unclean surface.   Unclean surfaces include those with fingerprints!  Cleaning can be accomplished by pickling or sanding.  Pickling, a chemical process, is very effective.  In order to clean the metals using this method the following items are needed:  pickle, pickle pot, tongs, and tweezers.  Pickle is an acidic solution and can come in a liquid or powder form.  As for the pickle pot, an old coffee pot on top of a hot plate or small crock pot will suffice.  Once you designate your equipment as a pickle pot, it should never be used for cooking or brewing again.  After pickling, the metals need to be washed thoroughly in water with a little baking soda (a copper tong should be used to take the metals in and out of the pot–copper will not contaminate the pickling solution). Dry well.

A wet pumice stone and bristle brush or a clean piece of emery paper will also work for cleaning.  Use a clean pair of tweezers to manage the metals with after they have been cleaned.

Step 3. Fluxing

All areas to be soldered need to be covered with flux (unless using paste solder).  Each piece of solder should also be fluxed.  Soldering flux helps dissolve and prevent oxidation of the base metal.  It also acts as a wetting agent allowing easier spreading of the solder around the join.   There are many soldering fluxes on the market available for use.

Step 4. Solder Placement

Prepare a few snippets of solder; these are called pallions. With a pair of tweezers or a flux-moistened brush tip, place the solder paillon on the join.  Do not use more paillons than necessary for the join, as it is difficult to melt and remove as well as causing blemishes.  If excess solder does flow off the join, it can be removed by filing.

Step 5. Heating

Using a torch, carefully and quickly preheat the entire metal area evenly to provide solder flow.  If the solder is heated without heating the entire piece first, it melts and forms a ball that cannot enter the join.  Equally heat the two or more pieces that are to be connected together.  Once the piece begins to glow, the solder will flow and will fill the seam.  Working in soft light will increase your capability to see the metal glow.  Melted solder is attracted by heat and will always flow toward the hottest spot.  By moving the torch, you can target the solder to flow in the manner you desire.

After the solder has melted to your satisfaction, cool, and place the piece in a warm pickle bath to remove oxidation.  It can also be boiled to increase the cleaning time.

Finally – some brand new, unique jewelry making patterns! And the best thing is that they are available to EVERYONE for FREE!

We are pleased to announce that the winning designs of the jewelry making contest are now available for your use! You can access the free jewelry pendant patterns by clicking on the link “2009 Pendant Contest Winners” and then by selecting which piece you would like to view.

This year’s challenge was themed on pendant making for the amateur, intermediate, and professional wire-sculptor.  All entries were based on four criteria:  Originality, Skill-Level, Creativity, and Detailed Instructions.  There was a tremendous response and we received a great deal of skilled, stunning, and artistic entries.  Thank you all who entered!

Again, allow us to mention our grand-prize winner, Joe Rushing, who won $500 for his pendant entry!  Joe created a lovely piece, using gold-filled wire that was wrapped around a mahogany obsidian ladder pendant.  He also used the coiling gizmo for this project and, as a result, created a unique wire- dangling look that compliments the pendant.  These “danglers” can also be used to construct a matching pair of earrings.

Indeed, you will be impressed with the end-product of the award-winning designs and you can obtain ALL of these patterns for free by clicking on the Contest Winners link.  Each pattern consists of a materials list, step-by-step instructions, and detailed pictures, complete for your utilization.  Enjoy!