Wire-Sculpture Blog Jewelry Making Tips, News & Videos...Join the conversation

by Rose Marion, Wire-Sculpture.com

Tool of the Week for
November 14, 2011

sponsored by JewelryTools.com

This week’s tool: Diamond Bead Reamer Set, Item # DIB-275.00

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Demonstration by Kate, JewelryTools.com

This week’s featured tool from JewelryTools.com is the DIB-275.00 Diamond Bead Reamer Set. This excellent reamer comes with 3 diamond points for reaming beads and pearls, and is very light to hold. For best results, hold your bead and the tip of the reamer in a bowl of water! This will prevent dust, bead cracking, and damage from friction.

You can see Mary Bailey and Charley Key, WS Faculty members, demonstrating how to use this bead reamer on pearls, here: Bead Reaming Made Easy.

Click below to see DIB-275.00 on JewelryTools.com:
Bead Reamer

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Daily Wire Tip Sept. 13: Investing in Jewelry Tools

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 13, 2011

Question:

Hi, I have been wire wrapping for about 3 years, love it, but I have been purchasing low to medium priced tools that need replacing quite often. Can you recommend a set of tools that are good, but won’t break the bank? Thank you.

-Julie in Canton, Ohio

Answer:

Hey Julie, thanks so much for asking this question! I have written a lot of tips with regards to tools, but your situation is the perfect example of something I tell folks all the time: "The quality of your work is reflected in the quality of your tools," and how you work with them. Depending on the style of wire wrapping you execute most often (chain maille, traditional, coiling, sculpting, etc) your most important tools may be different from those I use, however you can apply my answer to any tools!!

You state that you have been using "medium-priced" tools that often need replacing. My question is, how many times do you have to replace a certain tool and at what cost? Example: if a pair of flat nose pliers presently costs $12 and you have to replace it twice a year, after 2 years (and $48) you could have purchased a single pair of Swanstrom flats (retail $42, Gold Club $31.46)! Seriously, purchased in 1993 for around $28, I have been continuously using the same pair of Swanstrom flats for 18 years and they are still as good as new! (And like everything else, look how much their price has risen.) That’s another positive point, prices are NOT going down, ever! Invest in good tools in the same manner as you invest in the beads and gemstones that you use in your jewelry designs. They (and you) are worth it!!

OK, now that I’ve had my little rant I would like to direct you to a recent tip where we spoke of tools and brands, Lindstrom or Swanstrom that might help you further with your decision. Work smarter, not harder and save both your body and your wallet some stress. Explore Wire-Sculpture’s tools section as well as our sister site, JewelryTools.com, for some tools that will work for you.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 25, 2011

Question:

Dale, thank you so much for your everyday tips. I love your book too! I’m struggling to pick out the right kind of Optivisor. What do 8", 14", and 20" actually mean? And how am I supposed to know what magnifying glass I need? Thanks a lot for your help.

-Irisha in Georgetown, Texas

Answer:

Hi Irisha, thanks so much! I am glad that all of the information I share is helpful to you. Now about Optivisors, the numbers you mention, 8", 14", and 20", relate to how closely you will need to hold your work to your eyes for the magnification to work properly. I like to recommend 14-inch to my students because this distance allows you to work without having to hold your work too closely, preventing strain on the back, neck and shoulders.

Optivisor with 1.75 Lens

By "magnifying glass" I think you mean what power of lens that goes into the Optivisor. Most people use a 1.75 either with or without their prescription glasses. The greater the magnification, the closer to your eyes you have to hold the work to see it properly. We had a nice discussion about eye magnification devices in April that may give you some more insight called: Magnify Wire Jewelry with Optivisors.

Just remember that the further away you are able to hold your work and still see the details will prevent pain in your body!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Tip: Ultimate Jewelry Tool Shopping List

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip

Question:

Dale, I am sending my husband out the door with my Christmas list (yes, a Christmas list)! I want my jewelry making tools. I am learning how to wire wrap. I have already learned the basic for stringing, but what would you suggest for my first set of tools for making different kinds of jewelry? I’m not just a stringer or a wrapper, I’m just a “I want to make whatever inspires me at the moment” kind of gal. Thanks for all you and your people do for the rest of us.

-Evelyn in Wood-Ridge, New Jersey

Answer:

You are welcome Evelyn, and Merry Christmas to you! There are many different jewelry-making styles and although each requires several tools that are similar, many techniques need specific tools. I am going to talk about just a few of your options.

A pair of crimping pliers, most often used by beaders, can also be used by wire wrappers to tuck the end wire in on a wrapped loop. Chain maille artists often use two pairs of wider tip chain nose pliers. One pair is sufficient for a wire wrapper, who also likes to have a pair of needle nose chain nose pliers to make tiny loops at the very ends of wire.

Folks who do a lot of round wire designs use almost any pair of flat nose pliers, but wire wrappers who work mainly in square wire need a pair that have perfect angles (with no dips or bulges on their sides). Some people like pliers that have extra cushion on their handles; others (like me) think the extra bulk is difficult to hold for long periods of time. Then there is the choice of longer handles (in my opinion longer handles take stress off the hand and wrist). I am a firm believer that all pliers need to have a good spring hinge of some sort, so you don’t have to constantly open pliers while using them.

About everyone can use a nice set of fine diamond files and/or an Arkenstone to remove sharp ends and burrs (then again an emery board works well too, even on metal clays), and we all need a good pair of wire cutters as well as a pair of small nippers for tight spots.

Then there are mandrels. Almost all jewelry makers need a neck mandrel, a worthwhile investment! As for ring mandrels, we had a good discussion on these a few weeks ago: Ring Mandrels 101, and a ring sizer that matches the mandrel! Depending on what style of bracelet you want to make, some folks like to use a steel bracelet mandrel. Most wire wrappers don’t use one, as we often incorporate beads and stones into the design (that don’t do well while forging on a steel mandrel). Most of us use plastic bottles and shape by hand.

Mandrels usually require that an item be beaten on it or forged, so a mallet is necessary. I like a medium had rawhide mallet, but lots of folks like using a nylon one.

Forging is used in lots of jewelry making styles, so a basic chasing hammer and bench block should be on your list too. And if you want to get into more metal smithing, a dapping block will be useful along with a jeweler’s saw and diamond blades.

A set of carat scales is indispensable if you are working with gemstones, and a ruler is a must for all of us! I prefer a plastic, transparent ruler so I can also use it for quick measurements on stones. Again, if you want to work with gemstones, a caliper is very handy. (I can’t live without my digital one!) And I can’t forget – a good pair of Optivisors not only helps you to see tiny details, but is also protection for your eyes.

Wire-Sculpture has several tool sets available. As you are looking for universal but ‘good’ tools, on a scale of 1 to 4, 1 being best, here is my opinion on our tool sets:

  • 4 – Starving Artist: Mostly for beaders, has essential tools, but will not hold up to most wire projects;
  • 3 – Wire Sculpting: Very good for wirework beginners as well as for almost all jewelry making arenas;
  • 2 – Masters: Better, tools have longer handles and good cutters, but the flat nose pliers are not square on all sides;
  • 1 – Professional Wire Artist: Best for working wire in all gauges, shapes and tempers. Tools have longer handles and will last for years! (I know because I put this set together and have been using these brands for more than 17 years, only replacing my cutters now and then. This kit also contains my favorite, quick-&-easy-to-use pin vise.)

I hope your husband has his credit card with him when he goes shopping! With the following list, you will have plenty of tools to make almost anything (and if you are like most of us, you will still be buying tools).

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
July 13, 2010

Question:

Many of your gems are sized in mm. Is there a formula for determining the amount of carets a gem has?

-Rebecca in Erie, Colorado

Answer:

All gems are sized in millimeters (mm). Each gem has a different chemical structure and the weight of each gem is dependent on that chemical structure, therefore there is no formula that equates weight to size for different gems.

If you desire to sell your finished wire jewelry item by the carat weight, you could use a scale to weigh the stone after you purchase it and before you wrap it.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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