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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
August 30, 2011

Question:

I read a while back on one of your answers to a question about a spray polish that you can use on organic materials. Could you tell me what that was? I can’t seem to find it anymore and I forgot what brand it was. Thanks. Oh, and I love your website and have learned so much about wire wrapping from Dale. Have a great day.

-JoAnn in Lee’s Summit, Missouri

Answer:

No problem JoAnn, we get a lot of questions about how to prevent tarnish on metals as well as preservatives for organic items. The best product for both jobs is the same, Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Spray Protectant, which is available at many craft and home improvement stores.

Here are several of the uses we’ve discussed regarding Krylon’s Spray Protectant. (You can find these articles by searching "spray", "acrylic", or "Krylon" in the search box on the left side of the blog):

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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How to Clean Copper and Brass Jewelry Wire

By Mary W. Bailey

In these economic times, we as artists and jewelers are faced with the shock of the price increases in precious metals. Silver and gold prices have skyrocketed and we are finding ourselves faced with rethinking just what metals we are going to be using to create with.

Both copper and brass jewelry wire are available to us in a variety of gauges and shapes. Brass gives an illusion of being gold-like with its yellowish-red color, but it is actually a blend of copper and zinc (having roughly 67% copper and 33% zinc in its makeup). Sometimes small amounts of other metals are added in the blend but the majority of brass is as stated above. Jewelry brass is usually the 230 alloy, otherwise known as rich low brass.

Please be aware that working with brass wire is harder on your hands as it will not bend and flow as easily as when compared to silver and/or gold-filled wire. So take your time and work it slowly until you get the feel of the metal.

Keeping your brass and copper items clean and shiny will take a bit more work than normal. There are a variety of ways to do so, from simple home recipes to buying commercially manufactured products. The one thing you do have to keep in mind is the difference between acidic and caustic compounds for cleaning brass. We will cover a few different ways to clean these metals.

Please note that these are just some techniques to try and before using any of them take into consideration the beads or gemstones, etc. you have used in making your jewelry piece. We are not endorsing any one way or method, merely providing you with information for your use regarding cleaning techniques that we are aware of, and none of these cleaning methods will prevent tarnish. If there is a product or method listed that we do personally use, we will note it as such.

Natural Methods:

Lemon Juice: To clean brass or copper with lemon juice, you can either use it neat (straight), or mixed with vinegar and/or baking soda.

  • Mix up a couple of teaspoons of lemon juice with a couple of teaspoons of vinegar.
  • Add just enough baking soda to make it become a gritty paste.
  • Use this with a cloth to scrub your brass or copper items.
  • Rinse with lukewarm water and dry with a clean cloth.

Ketchup or Worcestershire Sauce: Who would have thought this would work?  Ketchup and Worcestershire sauce both have the ability to remove dirt well due to the acidic nature of both items.

  • First try rubbing the sauce onto your item with a soft cloth.
  • If this doesn’t remove the dirt very well, coat the item in sauce and leave it to sit for a minute or two.
  • Rinse with lukewarm water and dry with a clean cloth.

Vinegar & Steel Wool: Noted as one of the simpler methods available for cleaning brass. Grab some vinegar, pour it on or soak your item in it for a minute or two, then just use steel wool to remove the tarnish. (Personally, I think if using this method I’d use a q-tip dipped in vinegar or a soft cloth with some vinegar on it, since most of the cleaning action comes from the acidity of the vinegar rather than from the physical scrubbing with the steel wool.)

  • Use a fine grade of steel wool (If it is numbered, lower 0s are a minimum grade as opposed to a higher grade with more 0s).
  • Watch your item if you do immerse it entirely into the vinegar: some items will discolor in the vinegar, and you will need to buy a commercial polish to remove the discoloration.
  • Some people use apple cider vinegar, while others say red wine vinegar is better than white wine.  Which works best for you will depend on your own choices.

Toothpaste: Toothpaste is a gentle abrasive. Use the opaque toothpastes rather than the clear varieties, as the opaque ones are more likely to contain the necessary, mild abrasive (while the others are more focused on killing bacteria and freshening breath).

Be aware that this method will probably not be as effective as any other method because the toothpaste is an alkaline and not acidic as the others mentioned above. Most of the results will be obtained by all the scrubbing you do with the brush.

Ready To Use Solutions:

If you are going to use a ready-to-use solution, follow the golden rule and read the label. This is for your own safety and for the preservation of your brass items.

Brasso: An old favorite that I remember well from having to clean large brass trays my mother had purchased while we were stationed in Taiwan. Follow the directions on the can. Basically you need to soak a cloth in Brasso then rub the tarnish off the brass. Wear gloves to do so and then buff with a clean soft cloth.

Nevr Dull: Yep, spelled strangely but it does clean brass. Comes with pre-soaked wadding in the can and you pull off a piece and start rubbing. Both Dale and I have used this product with good results. Be sure to wear gloves just to keep the product from drying out your skin, and use it in a well-ventilated area.

Tarn-X-Brass: Another liquid cleaner that attacks light tarnish. Be sure it says Brass as there are two types of Tarn-X. (FYI, we do not recommend using the silver version at all!!)

Easy Cleaning of both Copper and Brass: An ionic cleaner such as the Speed Brite works well on both copper and brass jewelry items and with no harm to gemstones or beads. If the piece doesn’t clean immediately with the regular clip and dip method, use a soft toothbrush under running water afterwards, to assist the process.

Be sure and properly store your finished pieces in a zip loc bag to help reduce tarnishing.

 

Wire-Sculpture Faculty member Mary Bailey is a regular contributor of patterns and articles. You can read more about Mary, a renowned scrimshaw artist, in her Faculty Profile.

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
June 14, 2011

Question:

Dale, you often speak well of Argentium® silver. I’ve never used it, but my partner who makes beautiful chain bracelets and neck chains made one, and it darkened, and looks very dull. Has this happened in any of your jewelry, and how do I best remedy it?

-Helen in Jackson, New Jersey

Answer:

Hello Helen, yes, I have been personally working with Argentium® wire since 2005. No, I have never had this wire turn dark, dull, or develop any type of serious tarnish, other than a slight blonde color near the wraps on a piece that had been sitting on a shelf for 8 months, waiting for a reaction.

I asked a friend who makes Argentium hollow ware, and their response was that maybe your partner should enhance the germanium properties of the material by baking the finished items in a 250° F oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Then just use a polishing cloth to finalize the shine. Yes, I have recently read about some folks who actually bake their wire before working with it too. I have never baked Argentium, because I have never had any serious issues with it turning.

One reason may be that the chain had been near salt, bleach, or chlorine products? These chemicals have a tendency to turn silver black. Also, over time, just about every metal is going to react to both the atmosphere and skin oils. The nice, easy-clean feature of Argentium makes renewing its shine more simple than sterling or plated silver. In the example of the Argentium sitting on my counter, I easily removed the blonde film by lightly rubbing the bracelet with a clean piece of t-shirt.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Tip June 8: Dawn for Tumbling

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
June 8, 2011

Question:

I know you don’t tumble much Dale, but maybe one of your co-workers can answer: Why Dawn for tumbling? I’ve seen so many people say use Dawn instead of the chemical stuff, but what sets Dawn apart from other dish soaps?

-Amie in Fremont, California

Answer:

Actually Amie, I tumble a lot! Mainly rocks though, and occasionally my daughter’s chain maille pieces.

When I tumble rocks, I use a few flakes of Ivory Snow to break the water cohesion and when I tumble chain maille made by my daughter, Skye, I use a tiny squirt of blue Dawn.

Dale Armstrong's Tumbler Collection
A few of Dale’s tumblers!

Yes, most people have found that Original Blue Dawn dish detergent works best for them, and some people use additional special burnishing compounds made especially for tumbling metals. My investigation of Original Dawn ingredients took me to the Proctor & Gamble website where I found the following link, Ultra Dawn Original ingredients (PDF)

It is my opinion that the cleaning agents and grease strippers that leave no coating or residue whatsoever are the main reason why this detergent works so well when tumbling jewelry. Also, it has few dyes, perfumes, and abrasive chemicals, and is affordable and readily available in grocery stores in the US and Canada. For more information about this product, its many varieties and uses, please visit the company’s website: About Dawn.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Tip Feb. 16: Removing Marker from Jewelry Wire

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
February 16, 2011

Question:

Hello Dale, I have yet another question for your expertise. I use the permanent marker as you suggest on the back side of my wire, but how does it come off? Is there something I could use to remove it? I hate to show my jewelry with a black line. Thank you so much for your great videos.

-Mishi in Clinton, Connecticut

Answer:

Hi Mishi, I am so glad that you enjoy working with my videos – thanks! We have had several great discussions on how to remove all types of residue from your finished wire jewelry pieces. A lot of folks have added to my suggestion of using denatured alcohol on either a cotton swab or t-shirt piece, such as: "Skin-So-Soft", "Goof Off", nail polish remover, "Goo Gone", rubbing alcohol and "pure" alcohol (from a hardware store). To read all of these great comments, please see Removing Measurement Marks.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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