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Daily Wire Tip Oct. 27: Snapsets and Ring Designs

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 27, 2010

Question:

I would like to start making rings with snapsets in them to sell. I am interested in different designs, can you suggest an easy-to-understand book/DVD for me to get my business off the ground? Also, what gauge wire would you recommend for a beginner? Thanks!

-Terri in Wilson, North Carolina

Answer:

There are a lot of different ring styles on the Internet that utilize snapset stones. In addition to those, my Ring Series, including the Bonus DVD, has 3 specific designs for snapsets, and many others that can be altered to work with a snapset stone. If you are looking for the specific numbers, then Ring DVDs 2 and 4 are designed with snapsets. Most of my ring designs use 22-gauge square half hard wire for the main construction, and 20-gauge half round half hard to wrap the shanks.

I will say that although rings are a popular sales item, they can be one of the most difficult projects to master making well (which includes proper sizing). Therefore, if you truly wish to specialize in creation wire rings, and to become a true ring master, I recommend getting the entire Ring Series and working through it from DVD 1 on, as all of my DVD classes are progressive, meaning each lesson goes into the next. The entire series teaches you 11 different designs. As you progress from DVD 1 through the series, you will notice that I show and talk about how many ways these designs can be varied, often showing examples as your “homework.”

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Tip Sept. 30: How to Use Earring Snapsets

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 30, 2010

Question:

How do you use the earring snapsets? I purchased the earring 6mm earring snapset with the 6mm stones to go in them, and I realized I don’t know how to use them – can someone give me directions?

-Barb in Puyallup, Washington

Answer:

The easiest way to set stones into earring snapsets is to:

  1. Place the stone, table side down, on a roll of tape* (sticky side out).
  2. Holding the setting between your fingers, center the setting over the stone.
  3. Push the setting onto the stone. You should hear a definite snap.

If the stone goes to one side and the prongs end up bent, use needle nose chain nose pliers to adjust and reposition the prongs, and then try again.

* – Take a piece of tape and stick the ends together, making sure the sticky side is out.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Tip June 24: Wire Wrapping a Coin

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
June 24, 2010

Question:

I would like to make a bracelet with my Indian Head nickel, but I cannot find a snapset that will fit. I was told it measures 21–but I don’t know what 21 means. Do you know where I could purchase a snap set to fit this nickel, or what I can do with it?

-Nancy in Idaho Falls, Idaho

Answer:

The number 21 refers to the distance across the center of the coin, 21mm in diameter. As you desire to make this into a bracelet, you could make a side-to-side frame wrap and attach the bail ends onto a Chevron Bracelet base (as seen on the cover of Wirework, where you will also find detailed directions). As for a snapset, sorry, I do not know where you might find a snapset 21mm round, as that is an uncommon size. You may have better luck searching for a coin bezel.

Folks with larger coins interested in making a pendant can watch Disc 3 of the Intermediate Series to learn the Reversible Framed Pendant. And the reason I mention this DVD is it’s part of today’s Daily Deals: it’s 50% off for today only!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
December 24, 2009

Question:

I bought a small bag of gems in assorted sizes. I measured each gem and ordered the setting in the same size but they were either too big or too small. Where did I go wrong? How do I get the right fit?

Answer:

OK, how did you measure the stones? Did you use a simple brass or plastic caliper or a digital/electronic one? The reason I ask is because when a person purchases a ‘lot’ of gemstones you get ‘the good, the bad, and sometimes the ugly’, many of which have been ‘mine-cut’.

(Mine-cut means cut by the locals where the stone was mined. These folks are usually paid by the carat weight, therefore these stones often have deeper pavilions with thin or thick girdles and as they are cut under mostly primitive conditions, not well calibrated either, so the stones are not expensive to purchase.)

When a gemstone is not calibrated and a simple caliper is used to measure one, it is easy to read and think the stone measures, for example 5mm round, when if the same stone were measured using an electronic caliper it might measure 5.2mm and not really be round at all!

Now when using round snapsets, a smaller or larger setting can often be used with no problem, IF the pavilion is not too deep or wide. When using another shaped snapset such as a marquise, the stone really needs to be the same size as the setting due to the cut (points on marquise stones chip off very easily). A square or rectangular cut stone might fit into a setting a little smaller or larger, depending on the cut. If the stone has cushion cut corners, a slightly smaller setting would work better, and for full corners, using the exact sized stone is almost a must, again due to the pointy corners that can easily chip.

In my early years, I used a brass caliper however when I got serious about gemstones I invested in a digital/electronic one. When not in use I remove the battery to save its’ life and have no problem measuring stones of any cut.

Advice; if you are going to invest in gemstones, invest in the necessary equipment so you can use them to your, and their, best advantage.

For a digital caliper, WS offers them for sale here: http://www.wire-sculpture.com/jewelry-gauge-1.html

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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