Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 14, 2011

Question:

I’ve tried several sites for this question, and can’t get a straight answer, just generalities. I have a tumbler, wet, and I need to know what I cannot put in it. I know shell and pearl are out, but I also know there are others that can’t be tumbled, can you tell us please.

By the way, I’m getting an ionic cleaner, and it doesn’t specify if it cleans brass and copper just gold and silver. Will it clean oxidation off any metal? Thank you so very much.

-Linda in Sherman, Texas

Answer:

Hi Linda, I would like to try to make this easier for you to figure out. When you think about putting certain stones into a tumbler, take the hardness into consideration. For example, how well do you think a stone like natural turquoise (Mohs hardness of about 4) would hold up while being tumbled around in water and steel shot before it would deteriorate? (You can find the hardness of about any stone regularly used in jewelry making by typing its name into the search box of Wikipedia).

I can tell you specifically not to put the following stones into a tumbler without experimentation on a bead or small sample first: malachite, azurite, turquoise, opal, pearl, or fluorite. Now think about the shape of a bead with relation to its harness. If you were to put faceted fluorite beads into a tumbler with water and steel shot, the facets would wear away quickly, as well as the polish. When I set up a tumbler for rocks, I have to make sure that all of the material I put into the tumbler in one batch are of similar hardness. I cannot put a piece of soft malachite in with harder agates or jaspers. So, although this is basic answer, the hardness of the material depends on whether or not it can be tumbled while in a piece of jewelry or not, or for how long.

As for using an ionic cleaner on different metals, several members of the WS Faculty and I have been using an ionic cleaner on every type of jewelry making wire, for many years, with complete success! These metals include: sterling silver, Argentium® silver, 14/20 gold filled, copper, and brass.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
June 04, 2010

Question:

I am trying to make the bracelet that is the first project on your Beginner’s DVD.  I am having great difficulty keeping all the wires together.  I keep straightening the wires, and yet the wires do not lay flat.  What am I doing wrong?  I am using 21-gauge half round half hard sterling silver wire and gold plated wire.

Answer:

The first thing I saw in your question was that you are using half-round wire for the bindings. Please try this design using the wire shape called for: half-hard square. If your base wires are not as straight as they can possibly be, then while making the bracelet bundle, at least make them all go in the same direction. In this way when you draw them up through your hands while taping, they should lay together nicely, as you are forming a ‘plank’. When using the power of square half-hard wire to wrap, even if your bundle is slightly curved, the wraps should be strong enough to bind the plank-shaped bundle. (If you insist on using a small half-round, half-hard, be prepared to add a LOT more wraps than the design calls for, as this gauge is not strong enough to do the job you expect it to.)

On any pattern, if you are beginning, please follow the author’s specifications regarding wire gauges/tempers/shapes, as we do this for a reason – they work! When you have become proficient with a technique, then you can try to alter the design/wire tempers, shapes & gauges to make variations of that design.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
May 18, 2010

Question:

I have seen confusing information on what type of wire to use for various projects.  Could you tell me when it is best to use dead soft wire?  For example, I am wrapping a sea glass pendant and also making the clasp.  Would I use the dead soft sterling silver wire for the wrapping and the half hard for the findings?

Answer:

This sounds like a workable combination to me, as the soft will form to the baroque shape of the sea glass, while the half hard forms a substantial clasp that will not pull apart easily. (I do recommend twisting the bail part of the soft wire though, to harden and hold the shape.) Depending on the gauge of the clasp wire, if using an 18 or larger soft will work well as it work hardens very quickly and in a larger size, half-hard can be difficult to make small components with. However if using a 20g or smaller for the clasp, half-hard would be my choice.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
May 12, 2010

Question:

I’m new to making jewelry with wire and am trying to learn all I can. Your tips are great! What gauge and temper wire would I use to create a nice substantial hammered dangle for either earrings or necklace. I tried a 16g round dead soft and it was rather thin.

Answer:

This really depends on your personal definition and desire of ‘substantial’. Those of us who have been forging wire for a while like 16g round, soft to hammer. It is large enough to show both any texturing you may wish to add, as well as the definition between those curves flattened with a hammer and those left alone. If 16g does not give you the ‘look’ you wish, try 14g, either round or square, soft wire.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
April 25, 2010

Question:

I shaped a choker wire from 14g dead soft round copper wire. What’s the best way to harden it so the choker retains its shape?

Answer:

The easiest (and most enjoyable) way to harden 14g round copper is to forge it. Use a chasing hammer with a steel bench block or vise, or get a regular ball peen hammer (if it’s been in the garage or basement for a while, use a grinding wheel or sandpaper to smooth both heads). The flat head, on either hammer, will flatten and slightly stretch the metal while hardening it, as well as adding a slight ‘rise’ to the piece (which you could incorporate into your desired shape) and the ball head can texture it. Experiment first, using a piece about 3 to 5 inches long, so you have enough to hold on to. (The scrap could later become a pair of earrings.) Forging/beating soft wire into different shapes can be a lot of fun!

The project on DVD #4 of the new Intermediate DVD series, introduces forging with a really cool Cuff Bracelet .

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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