Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
September 22, 2011

Question:

I’ve bought several wire cutters that said they were “flush cutters”, but I still am left with a definite sharp point on my wire. I’m beginning to think I don’t understand what “flush” means. Is there such a thing as a wire cutter that leaves a flat or nearly-flat flush cut, or am I misunderstanding the concept? Thanks!

-Allison in Houston, Texas

Answer:

Hi Allison, I totally understand your confusion. When companies describe their products, they write what the product does, and I agree that most should be labeled as “angle flush cutters.” Think about what we are doing when we “cut” wire. Because there is no metal removed in the process, we are actually separating molecules! When the blades on a “cutter” perform, they are pinching the wire thin enough to break it at that point. Really, I have tried many different “flush” cutters over the years and here are my results.

For the flushest cut you can get at an affordable price, Memory Wire Cutters do a good job; however they have an inconvenient blade shape and size so they are not practical for most wire jewelry work.

The Tronex company makes a precision wire cutter; made of surgical steel, they are rather expensive at $55 to $70 a pair. These cutters really do cut flush, but like all decent wire cutters, you must remember to use them on precious metals to preserve them, and they are not good for wire gauges larger than 20.

Although I occasionally use Swanstrom cutters, mainly when I am doing a lot of work with large gauges (10 – 14), my favorite cutters are the Xuron flush cutters. I personally use these cutters on wires from size 12 through 26. No, they really do not cut “flush” straight across, but they do cut on a nice angle and if you use them enough you can train your eye to see where the angle will be and use it to your advantage!

As I have mentioned in other posts, to get rid of any burrs and make smooth ends on a piece of wire, cut the wire on a good angle and then use chain nose pliers to mash the end, tapering it. Then make a slight curve (heading toward the place the wire will rest) and when it is “put” there, the end will be as smooth as silk! When you are making individual jump rings (obviously not for a chain maille project) you can either double cut them with angle flush cutters or use memory wire cutters.

Related Products: Shop Flush Cutters on Wire-Sculpture and Flush Cutters on JewelryTools.com.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
August 30, 2010

Question:

What is the difference between a side cutter and a flush cutter? When would you use each if there is a difference?

-Judith in Alexandria, Virginia

Answer:

The term "flush" means level or straight and on the same plane, so flush cutters cut a wire level.

Xuron Flush Cutters

Side cutters, or angle cutters, cut on an angle, meaning the wire edge will be cut to one side.

The choice of use is totally up to you, the wire jewelry maker. For example, if you are cutting jump rings, a flush cutter will allow the jump ring to be closed on a level plane, whereas when using an angle cutter to make jump rings, you would need to cut both ends of the jump ring at opposite angles to make it fit together smoothly. This is also known as "double cutting."

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
December 18, 2009

Question:

What cutters are good for half hard wire up to 18 gauge wire?

Answer:

My absolute favorite wire cutters are the Xuron Maxi-Shear flush cutters, which Wire-Sculpture will have in stock soon!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
December 11, 2009

Question:

I damaged the cutting edges of my Lindstrom cutters. Do you know if they can be repaired (sharpened)?

Answer:

First I’d contact Lindstrom directly to see if they offer a reconditioning service like Swanstrom does, or find a professional who does tool reconditioning as Lindstom products are rather pricey to mess around with. But they are no good to you as they are and to recondition them yourself, you would use a diamond file or sharpening stone and working in one direction from the joint toward the point, you can reshape and sharpen them yourself. Just remember that as you do this you are removing metal and the jaws will not meet again unless you adjust the jaws to close tighter afterward. (My dear husband made the mistake of using my heavy Swanstrom cutters once for something that about destroyed them and as a metalworker he was able to recondition them for me.)

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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