by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong and Krystal Day, Wire-Sculpture.com

In Part 1 of this series, How to Choose Wire Temper for Making Jewelry, we learned about the most popular wire tempers that are used to make wire jewelry designs. Now we will learn a bit about the size or gauge of jewelry making wire, along with some examples of how different gauges may be used.

When looking at the gauge numbers of wire, it is normal to think: “the larger the number, the bigger the wire.” However, wire gauges actually work in reverse: “the larger the number, the smaller the wire.” This is because all jewelry wire sizes begin at the number 0, and each time the wire is passed through a drawing die, it becomes smaller. So, a wire that is labeled as 22-gauge has been pulled 22 times, and it is 22 times smaller than its original size. The gauge equals the diameter of the wire, meaning the distance straight across its center.

In North America, the size of the holes in a wire-drawing die is based on a geometric formula developed in 1855 by the machine-tool company, Brown and Sharpe. This progression of 39 sizes is known as the American Wire Gauge (AWG). All of the wire stocked by Wire-Sculpture is labeled using the AWG. Other parts of the world may use the British Standard Wire Gauge (SWG), where the sizes are just a hair larger than those of the AWG. (For example: AWG 20-gauge = 0.813mm and SWG 20-gauge = 0.914mm.) For the purpose of this article, all references below relate to the American Wire Gauge (AWG).

28-34-gauge
These are extremely fine wires, with diameters that measure from 0.013-.006 inches or 0.32-.16 millimeters. When thinking about using these wires, compare them to sewing thread. They can be used for coiling, weaving, knitting, and crocheting, as well as to work with feather-weight small-holed pearls and seed beads. If it should become kinked, this wire will easily break.

26-gauge
Measuring .016 inches or .41 millimeters in diameter, this is also a thin wire, but unlike the extremely fine wires (above) it is amazingly strong. In a round shape, one of its most popular uses is to coil it around a larger-gauge wire. It can also be used to knit, crochet, and weave, and to attach small-hole pearls and beads to other projects.

24-gauge
This is the first gauge in this list that can be used in the base creation of both sculpted and traditional wire jewelry designs. The diameter of 24-gauge wire measures 0.020 inches or 0.51 millimeters. In a round shape, it can be used more aggressively in the same manners as the 26-gauge above, and in a square shape 24-gauge can be used to make frames and wire settings for smaller cabochons and faceted stones. It is also used to make individual jump rings and head pins, as well as wrapping the tops of briolettes.

22-gauge
The diameter of this wire measures 0.025 inches or 0.64 millimeters. In a square shape, this is the preferred gauge for most traditional wire jewelry designs, such as bracelets, rings, and pendants for women and children. It is often used to make settings and frames for small-to-medium sized cabochons and cut stones. 22-gauge round is also used for larger coiling projects and those with experience will also use it for weaving and braiding designs. As a multi-purpose wire, it makes a nice double wrapped hook, head pins, smaller clasps, and it can be used to make individual jump rings.

21-gauge
Slightly larger than the 22-gauge, the diameter of 21-gauge wire measures 0.0285 inches or .723 millimeters. In a square shape, this small difference in size will match 21-gauge wire with the thickness of several pattern wires, so that they may be used together in bracelet and pendant designs. It can be used in all of the same projects listed for 22-gauge, but in a heavier fashion, meaning anything made with 21-gauge wire is suitable for men. It is the preferred gauge for making most prong projects and rings. Round 21-gauge wire is also an excellent choice when creating hooks and eyes, individual jump rings and other components that need to handle more stress. It is the preferred choice for making ear wires.

20-gauge
20-gauge wire measures 0.032 inches or .81 millimeters in diameter. In a round shape, 20-gauge wire is good for clasps, double wrapped hooks, head pins, ear wires and many other handcrafted components. The square 20-gauge wire is most often used to make heavier jewelry such as bracelets and rings for men, as well as to create neck collars for women.

18-gauge
Measures 0.040 inches or 1.02 millimeters in diameter and it is a very strong wire. It works well for making all types of hooks and clasps and for wire wrapping beads with large holes. It is used often when making ornate bracelets and when creating wire collars and heavier neck pieces.

16-gauge
This is a thicker wire that measures 0.051 inches or 1.29 millimeters in diameter. It can be used to make neck wires, freeform rings, bracelets and bracelet bases.

14-gauge
Probably the heaviest wire most wire artists will use, its diameter measures .0641 inches or 1.63 millimeters. Most often used in a dead soft temper, 14-gauge wire is perfect for making neckpieces, arm cuffs and bracelet frames.
What are your favorite gauges to work in? Leave a comment below! Next time, we’ll cover the last topic in this 3-part series on jewelry making wire, on Choosing Wire Shape.

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 12, 2011

Question:

Hi, I’m wondering what the gauges are in wire jewelry, and what the increment between each gauge is. I have a draw plate, but the holes aren’t marked, so I don’t know the sizes or increments. Thank you.

-Mollie in Reardan, Washington

Answer:

Hi Mollie, most wire jewelry uses gauges from 14-gauge (thick) to 28-gauge (thin), with some pieces and techniques using even larger and thinner wire. The higher the number, the thinner the wire; to help me remember, I think about a small tube that I put wire in, and I can fit lots of thin wire (like 28), but not as many thick ones (like 12). Wire jewelry patterns usually choose gauges from all the even-numbered gauges plus 21-gauge.

The wire sold in North America is usually measured according to the American Wire Gauge (AWG), one of a few ways to measure wire. Wikipedia has a lot of information on this measuring system, including how the steps between sizes are calculated and some rules of thumb.

Here on Wire-Sculpture, we have a handy page for finding the diameter (width) of the wire in inches and millimeters. Simply go to our Resource Center and look under All About Wire, it’s called Wire Gauge & Footage Charts. The first two charts are for converting weight of wire to footage (because some people are used to ordering wire by the ounce or the pound, and we offer jewelry wire by the foot); the last chart will help you convert AWG to inches and millimeters.

As far as your draw plate, to find what gauge a hole is, I would measure the diameter of the hole with a ruler that has millimeters, a wire gauge, or a caliper. Just use the chart I linked above to convert the millimeters to AWG. Be aware that many draw plates are chamfered, meaning that the hole is wider where you put it in, and tapers to be smaller as the finished size. I hope this helps!

Answer contributed by Rose Marion

Have a Question? Click Here to Submit Your Question

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 10, 2011

Question:

What is the best gauge of wire to use to make rings? I decided to get into wire jewelry to add to my style of jewelry making and it’s all new to me. Thanks.

-Pam in Crosslake, Minnesota

Answer:

Hello Pam, so glad to hear that you are combining wire with your favorite jewelry making mediums! The answer to your question is: any gauge you want, as long as it works! Seriously, some examples are: wire artists have made rings from 16- and 18-gauge round soft wire, by free-forming them on a mandrel and adding embellishments and/or texturizing them with an embossing hammer. 24-gauge is good for small, multiple wire rings; depending on the “style,” 22-gauge can be used in either dead soft or half hard for several designs and 21- or 20-gauge makes great prong or classic cabochon rings; and 20-gauge half round half hard is about perfect for wrapping ring shanks. For a more detailed discussion of what temper (hardness) of wire to use making rings, please read this recent Tip, Wire Temper for Wrapped Rings.

Albina Manning’s free Button Ring pattern uses 20-gauge dead soft for a soft sculpted ring that isn’t trying to hold a stone.

As you can see, the size of the wire used, as well as the choice of temper, really depends on what “style” of ring you are making. My best advice here would be to check out the Ring DVDs, and work them in order from number 1 through the last. As you work through the variety of designs, you will become familiar with the different wire sizes and tempers and how they can be used in ring designs, and then go off on your own and make your personal wire ring ideas, the way you want to!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Have a Question? Click Here to Submit Your Question

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
October 4, 2011

Question:

I have 28-gauge wire in various colors. I was going to use them for bobbin lace, but it is too big for that. I had to use 30-gauge. Can I ply a few strands by twisting say 3 or 4 or 5, and be able to use the result for making jewelry?

-Marj in San Jose, California

Answer:

Hello Marj, there are several jewelry items that can be made using 28-gauge wire. Many folks (including Faculty member Lena Bugrimenko) use it to make crocheted jewelry like bracelets and necklaces. Small, soft, round wire is also the favorite product for coiling and weaving wire jewelry designs like those taught by WS Faculty member Albina Manning in her Coiling and Weaving DVD series! (Once you learn how much fun and easy it is to coil wire, you will find that you may not have enough 28-gauge wire!) Your 28-gauge wire can also be used to “string” natural and cultured pearls (that is, if you don’t have our large-hole freshwater pearls) and it will make a beautiful Viking Knit chain!

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Have a Question? Click Here to Submit Your Question

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip for
July 6, 2011

Question:

Hi Dale, first, I want you to know that your daily tips are invaluable to me! Thank you for sharing your expertise with those of us who are learning.

I am having a difficult time making wire spirals with 16-gauge wire. Specifically, I am having a hard time getting a good grip with my chain nose or flat nose pliers after the initial loop. The wire is so heavy I cannot get it to bend in a soft curve, without losing my grip. I wonder if I am using the wrong technique? I don’t have this problem with fine-gauge wire and I’ve even tried a WigJig, with no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Linda

-Linda in Castle Rock, Colorado

Answer:

Hi Linda, yes, working with heavy-gauge wires can be difficult. I have found that the difference between working with these wires and fine-gauge wires lies in both the tool and the technique. Here is the best way I have found to make spirals with both 18- and 16-gauge wire; you’ll need chain nose and flat nose pliers:

First, use chain nose pliers to make as small a loop as possible. Then use flat nose pliers to coax the end to meet the wire, forming a circle (rather than an oval). Next, hold the main wire so the loop is facing up. Now place flat nose pliers on the loop at about 5 o’clock (7 o’clock for the left-handed), meaning that the pliers will be holding the loop firmly about 2/3 of the way from its beginning. Grip the loop with the pliers, and use your opposite hand to bend the wire tail around the loop made, moving the flat nose pliers out of the way and then re-gripping the loop as necessary.

While it’s easy – and sometimes addictive – to make spirals in 20-gauge and smaller, like these "Best Ever Spirals", heavy-gauge wire needs a bit more guidance.

Of course, many other people have their favorite ways to execute spirals using heavy-gauge wire. Anyone else have a tip to share with Linda? (Thanks!!)

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

Have a Question? Click Here to Submit Your Question

Click to Receive Daily Tips by Email