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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
August 4, 2010

Question:

I am prepared to start wire working after a year or two of reading numerous questions and responses, as well as many success stories. I have hesitated for a few reasons – one being the fear of making a mistake or not starting out on the right foot! What gauge wire do you recommend I start out to begin with? I want to begin my works with brooches, rings, and maybe bracelets.

-Laura in Villers-dt-Orval, Belgium

Answer:

The first decision you need to make, regarding beginning wire jewelry creation, is what style interests you the most.

Each style requires different wire sizes, tempers and shapes. For example:

  • Sculpting is mainly done with square dead soft wire in gauges from 24 to 20.
  • Coiling uses a lot of soft and half hard, round wire in gauges from 32 to 16.
  • Weaving utilizes a variety of gauges from 24 through 16, shapes, (round, half round and square), and tempers, (half hard and soft).
  • Traditional combines all of the above, but the most commonly used are square and half round, (half hard), in gauges 24 through 12!

I suggest beginning with earring and bracelet projects, as most brooches are advanced and except for very simple designs, rings are the most difficult of all.

You might want to give a try to these full length, free video projects.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Cool Anklets are HOT!

by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong, Wire-Sculpture.com

A gentleman/student-friend of mine, Jack from New Jersey, sent me an email the other day, asking about anklets. You have all heard me say that a lot of my personal inspiration comes from my students, thus the inspiration for this article.

It is the height of the summer season when women’s fashion calls for shorter skirts, Capri pants, shorts and longer halter dresses with side slits. Footwear includes heeled strappy sandals, decorative flip-flops or the lovely naked foot (which has been treated to a stylish pedicure). Therefore an important fashion accessory is the Anklet, as it calls attention to the legs and feet of a fashionable woman, charming and elegant no matter her age.

Now I am not going to go into major detail with regards to the history of the anklet, but you may find it interesting to know that this little jewelry item dates back 4500 years, to ancient Mesopotamia. That puts anklets in the same time line as wire jewelry! Ankle bracelets were and still are an important cultural accessory for women in India. North American women began wearing anklets in the fashionable 1950’s, and from the 1960’s through today (2010) we see anklets worn by both men and women. I also have to give fashion credit to the early Egyptians as anklets were worn by almost everyone; the rich whose anklets sported gemstones to show their wealth (predominately turquoise and lapis) while the less fortunate adorned their anklets with charms and amulets, later moved to the wrist to become . . . charm bracelets!

Anklets can be made from about any material. Some are simple pieces of leather, single strands or braided, with or without a charm or bead embellishment, which are tied around an ankle. Trendy anklets include those made of plastic-similar to a braided lanyard; fabric or rickrack adorned with tiny bells for dancers; braided embroidery floss – the ‘friendship’ anklet; stretchy, etcetera. Fashion anklets are made of both precious and base metals, some a simple decorative chain, while others incorporate beads and/or set gemstones.

Making different styles of anklets is easy and fun! From casual to more formal designs, with a bit of wire, chain, beads, maybe a snapset CZ stone or two and a good clasp, you will be able to satisfy any customer.

The most common anklet lengths are from 7 to 10 inches, however by following a few of my suggestions, your designs can be as versatile as your customer desires. To customize an anklet, using a measuring tape, measure around the person’s ankle, right where they would like it to lay, and then add half an inch. Another way to measure is to use a length of chain, in the same manner, and then measure the length of chain needed, subtracting the length of the desired clasp. Adding an additional 1 to ¾-inches of chain to the desired finished length adds size versatility to any anklet design.

Use a 4-inch piece of 22-gauge round wire with a wrapped loop at each end (insert the chain before the loop is wrapped closed) with a pretty combination of beads in the center and finish with a trigger clasp. The clasp will fit into any of the chain links, so a small headpin charm has been added to the opposite chain end, acting as a weight-dangle. This ‘beaded center’ anklet design can dress up or down, depending on the beads used. (You could even make earrings and a simple pendant charm to match, for your ‘sun goddess’ customers.) To make it even more simple, here are the stepped out directions for my Easy Agate Anklet.

Just remember to be careful about the bead choice as some materials like freshwater pearls, fluorite and turquoise (to name a few) will not hold up well in the summer sun, chlorine in pools and hot tubs or salt water. A ‘water-fun’ anklet is a good time to use whimsical beads made from shells!

For an elegant summer wedding or dinner, an anklet made of 14kt gold filled chain with freshwater pearl and crystal drops will certainly add sparkle to a tanned leg in a pair of summer heels. Use a length of medium weight chain; add a few wrapped headpin drops and a nice clasp-Done!

Entertaining young girls at a sleepover or a birthday party can be a piece of cake if you add a craft table. Provide some elastic cord, brightly colored glass, plastic or wooden beads, maybe some alphabet and number beads (depending on the guests ages) and Ta Da! Instant fun and a take-home anklet party favor, possibly personalized with their name or the date of the event.

If you wish to offer a slightly different product to your customers, try attaching a chain from the anklet at the top of the foot to an adjustable toe ring, to fit the big toe. In Eastern cultures, this chain was added to force a smaller/shorter step for the ladies. (Similar to a slave bracelet, but for the foot.) The ‘Lady Bugs’ sample, shown below, is a combination of four headpin charms that I used to attach two chain lengths together, before wrapping in the final loops.

Now, in closing I have to tell you that my ‘ending’ has changed. WS Faculty member Charley Key came by my studio yesterday afternoon and had a question about making ‘boot bracelets’ (thus my new ending). You can take all of the ideas in this article, use a heavier weight chain, add a couple of inches and . . . Ta Da!! Boot bracelets are born for the winter and fall season.

Now go and have some fun decorating ankles and enjoy the summer in ‘style’!

Always Twisted,                                                                                                                                                                                                 Dale/Cougar

Daily Wire Tip Aug. 3: Wrapping Small Gemstones

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
August 3, 2010

Question:

What would be the smallest size gem stone that I could use to wire wrap?

-Karen in Dallas, Georgia

Answer:

The smallest size gemstone to set with wire will depend on personal skills. If one is proficient in creating wire settings, then anything from an 8x10mm and larger should not present a challenge. I usually teach on a larger stone so folks can actually see what they are doing, and give “homework” on a smaller stone. As with anything worth doing right, practice, practice, practice!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
July 31, 2010

Question:

I have a large citrine I want to make into a pendant, but it is very deep. I would like to wrap the pendant in a combination of pattern wire and square wire, but do not know how to end the pattern wire to do the bail.

-Merilou in Wildomar, California

Answer:

I often add pattern wire to the frame of a deep stone. Incorporate the pattern wire as you would any square wire and when coming to the bail, you can choose several options, depending on the design you want.

One way is to just cut the pattern wire a bit longer than the bail wrap and then fold it over the wraps and flatten it down. Another way is to leave the pattern wire ends a bit longer, shape them into the flow of your design and use a Dremel to round off the sharp edges as in this example. With some experimentation, you will discover the look you desire. Have fun!

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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Daily Wire Tip July 26: Pattern Help

Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
July 26, 2010

Question:

A few patterns I have call for 14-gauge “twisted wire,” with no further explanation. Does it mean a 14-gauge square or half round wire, twisted?

I also have one that requires 14-gauge round twisted wire. Does that mean 2 round wires twisted together, since round wire can’t be twisted alone?

And lastly, if the pattern calls for 13 in. of twisted wire, how long would that be before twisting?

-Jeanne in Waukesha, Wisconsin

Answer:

Without knowing exactly what the projects are, it is difficult for me to determine what another designer means by the terms you quote. Often, if you can look at a photo of the finished project, you can figure out what they are referring to. If you cannot determine the details in this manner, I would email the author personally and ask them, as unfortunately sometimes editors cut out what they feel are unnecessary details to save space in a publication.

I will try to clarify some of these for you though, just from personal experience.

I would say that “14-gauge twisted wire” refers to a square wire that has been twisted. I do not think that twisted half round wire would be a regular item, nor have I ever worked with a 14-gauge half round wire in that manner. For the “14g twisted round wire,” I would agree with you that it means 2 round wires twisted together.

Your last question, about how long to cut a square wire before twisting to end up with 13 inches, really depends on how tightly you twist it. I would begin with a 14.5 inch long piece if twisting rather tightly. When the wire is twisted to your desire, measure it and record the results in your designer notebook so you will have a reference for the next time.

Answer contributed by Dale “Cougar” Armstrong

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