Bali Style Focal Toggle

by Judy Larson

Category: Findings
Technique(s): Butane Torch Techniques
Skill Level: Intermediate

When I was a young girl, my uncle, who was in the foreign service, aunt, and cousin lived in Indonesia. Ever since then, I have had an affinity for Bali jewelry and have amassed a large collection of Bali beads.

I started stringing up my beads and made lots of bracelets to give away. I found that even though I liked purchased Bali style toggles, the look was not quite right in my mind. Besides which, even with the addition of a large dangle bead on the toggle connection, the bracelets still rolled around the wrist. That is when I decided I needed a pretty focal toggle and started sketching. The toggles I made do not have the physical weight of the center beads on the bracelet, but when the toggle becomes visible, the bracelet still has a distinctive Bali look. Changing out a few of the center beads and adding the new toggle changed the look of my original bracelet from Bali to Bali Wow.

Materials

16 Gauge Square Dead Soft Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-16SQD

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $13.14
Gold Club Price: $9.85

Add to Bag

16 Gauge Round Dead Soft Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-16D

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $10.37
Gold Club Price: $7.78

Add to Bag

20 Gauge Round Dead Soft Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-20D

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $4.22
Gold Club Price: $3.17

Add to Bag

22 Gauge Round Dead Soft Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-22D

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $2.69
Gold Club Price: $2.02

Add to Bag

24 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches

H19-24SM6

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $48.95
Gold Club Price: $36.71

Add to Bag

Silver Filled Jump Rings Open (.040) 18ga (OD) 4mm (ID) 2.24mm - Pack of 25

S11-13

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $2.38
Gold Club Price: $1.79

Add to Bag

Sterling Silver Ball Chain 1.5mm - 10 Feet

C8-111U

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $65.40
Gold Club Price: $49.05

Add to Bag

Add All Items to Cart

Tools

Xuron Flush Cutter - Pack of 1

G2-504

G2-504
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

Add to Bag

Multi Angle Cutting Jig

VIS-512.00

VIS-512.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $84.95
Gold Club Price: $63.71

Add to Bag

PROFESSIONAL QUALITY RING MANDREL 1-16

MAN-295.00

MAN-295.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $24.95
Gold Club Price: $18.71

Add to Bag

Dual Head Hammer

G3-9

G3-9
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $6.97
Gold Club Price: $5.23

Add to Bag

Dead Blow Brass Hammer - 2 lb. Brass Hammer

HAM-456.20

HAM-456.20
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.97
Gold Club Price: $24.73

Add to Bag

Premium Steel Bench Block 2 1/2 X 2 1/2

G17-9

G17-9
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Price: $15.97
Gold Club Price: $11.98

Add to Bag

Small Disc Cutter, 7 Pieces

DAP-400.10

DAP-400.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $46.95
Gold Club Price: $35.21

Add to Bag

Nylon Ring Bending Pliers

PLR-841.00

PLR-841.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $20.97
Gold Club Price: $15.73

Add to Bag

Nylon Bracelet Bending Plier

PLR-840.00

PLR-840.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $19.97
Gold Club Price: $14.98

Add to Bag

Basic Soldering Kit

G15-4

G15-4
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $58.95
Gold Club Price: $44.21

Add to Bag

Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.15

SOL-822.15
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

Add to Bag

Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.10

SOL-822.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.95
Gold Club Price: $12.71

Add to Bag

Xuron Sheer - Non Serrated

SHR-691.81

SHR-691.81
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $24.95
Gold Club Price: $18.71

Add to Bag

Add All Items to Cart

Instructions

Step 1:

The O-ring

Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies being used and the space you are working in.

It might be helpful to sketch out some designs before starting the project.
For each toggle being made, straighten and cut one 2½" (appx. 63 mm) piece of 16 gauge square wire for the outer wall.

Step 2

File one end of the outer wall square wire-multiples are being made here. A miter jig vise is particularly helpful to use to do this because the square wire can be pushed up to the square fence in the jig to obtain a perfect 90 degree angle when filing. Measure and mark 2-3/8" (approx. 59 mm) from the filed end of the square wire.

Judy Larson's Bali Style Focal Toggle - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Bali Style Focal Toggle

Step 3

Using the miter jig for this step as well will make another perfect flat end. Trim excess wire, leaving just enough to file a flat end on the marked line.

Step 4

Bend the wire into an oval "D-ring" shape, matching the ends up as perfectly as possible. No light should be seen between the ends from any angle. Forming the wire into a "smile" and then pulling the wires back so the ends touch can help to create a flush connection between the wire ends. Also, do not worry if the square wire is not quite flat, so long as the wire corners of each end match up.

Step 5

Place a small amount of medium paste solder under the join or on the join on the inner circumference of the oval. Heating around and over the ring will draw the solder through the seam. Heat until the solder flows and immediately remove the flame. Wait for the piece to cool for 30 seconds or so before picking it up as it is fragile and can break into pieces when it is very hot. here is no need to quench. Place the piece a steel bench block to draw the heat out of it very quickly.

Step 6

Push the ring down onto a ring mandrel as far as it will go. Finish rounding it into a circular shape using a small rubber/nylon mallet.

Step 7

Place a ring in the center of a bench block. Place another bench block on top of the ring. Give the top bench block one or two good whacks in the center. Check to see if the ring is now flat with the edges squared up. If not, turn the ring over and repeat the process. One more whack should get the job done.

Step 8

Stretching a ring out into an oval is easy using the largest section on a small Wrap 'N' Tap pliers. Using a ring bending pliers will press the circle into a teardrop/egg shape. For either shape, make sure the seam is on the end where the jump ring will be added-see photo in Step 15. Repeat Step 7 because shaping could possibly distort the shape a bit.

Step 9

Place a piece of 320 or 400 grit sandpaper on a bench block or other flat surface with no give. Using two or three fingers to hold the ring down on the sandpaper, use a figure 8 motion to sand the back perfectly flat. Periodically turn the piece under your fingers to ensure an even sanding.
If there is a large amount of solder inside the ring, file it down. Since it will most likely be covered with embellishments, it is not necessary for the area to be perfectly smooth.

Pro Tip: Cover the side to be sanded flat with a Sharpie marker. When the marker is gone, the piece is flat.

Step 10

Because each toggle frame will be filled with more metal pieces, making it quite thick, 22 gauge down to 26 gauge sheet backing can be used-do not use thinner sheet. Because the finished "O" ring will be bent in Step 43, the thinner gauge sheet may be desired. The size and shape needed is determined by the shape of the outer wall frame and the added the jump ring-see the photo in Step 15. Notice that for the ovals, extra length was added for the jump ring to be added. The corner of the square for the circle will be all that is needed for the jump ring. Check to make sure the size will fit both the frame and the jump ring before cutting the sheet. Use an ultra fine point retractable Sharpie to draw the size needed on the sheet metal. Draw a line on the sheet metal where the "O" ring opening will be cut.

Pro Tip: I have a tendency to make several versions of something I know I am going to like and might have small pieces or wire or sheet left after spacing things out to take the best advantage of the piece of sheet metal I am working with. In this case, there was a small rectangle of silver left at the end of one strip that was just wide enough for a small pine tree-so I cut two pieces and set them aside to later make a simple pair of earrings. The takeaway-think beyond what is being made as opportunities for new creations might present themselves.

Step 11

Metal shears can be used to cut the sheet metal backing out. Flatten the piece on a bench block using a small rubber/nylon mallet.

Step 12

Slide the piece into a disc cutter with the drawn line barely showing in the hole. For the oval and teardrop shapes, a 5/8" cutter was used. For the circle shape, a ¾" cutter was used.

Step 13

Stamp the metal content centered just below the curve.

Step 14

This step is not necessary, but I wanted a tiny bit of extra contact between the jump ring and the frame. Close the jump ring. File a very tiny section flat on the seam end of the frame and the jump ring. I love my miter jig vise because the filed pieces will perfectly align every time.

Step 15

Drawing lines on the front of the sheet and on the back sanded side of the frame will help with solder placement. Place dots of medium paste solder on the back side of the frame. Position the frame on the backing, solder side down. Press into place. Place a small blob of solder on the backing, close to the seam in the frame, where the jump ring will be placed. Press the jump ring into place, pushing the flat side of the ring flush with the flattened area on the frame.

Place the piece on a Solderite board or magnesia soldering brick. Heat until the solder flows. Immediately remove the heat. Wait 30 seconds or more before moving the piece to a bench block to cool. The solder probably flowed everywhere, leaving a bit of a mess. Don't worry. The outside will be cut and filed away, and the inside will be covered.

Step 16

Cut a piece of 16 gauge square wire longer than needed. Shape it to fit the curve cut in the backplate. An easy way to obtain a nice curve would be to wrap the wire around a disc cutter one step down in size than the one used to cut the opening. After the piece is shaped, cut one end at an angle and file to fit inside the frame. Repeat with the other end. It is better to have some of the backing showing when the piece is fit into place than to have the piece go beyond the backing, creating a metal "step" on the back of the toggle. The excess backing metal can be filed away later.

Place medium paste solder along the curved backing edge and on the frame where the ends of the curved piece will touch. Press the curved piece into place. Place the piece on a Solderite board or magnesia soldering brick. Heat until the solder flows. Immediately remove the heat. Wait 30 seconds or more before moving the piece to a bench block to cool.

Step 17

Place a piece of 320 or 400 grit sandpaper on a bench block or other flat surface with no give. Using two or three fingers to hold the piece frame side down on the sandpaper, use a figure 8 motion to sand the frame perfectly flat. Periodically turn the piece under your fingers to ensure an even sanding.

Step 18

Pickle, rinse, and dry the piece.

Step 19:

Embellishments

Cut one inch (appx. 25mm) pieces of 20 gauge round wire, making sure that one end is flush cut. Scroll the flush cut end. How many and how to use them is up to you as the designer.

Step 20

Have a variety of silver balls on hand. For this project, 1/8", 3/16", ¼" and ¾" pieces of balled 18 gauge wire were used.

Step 21

I use a lot of twisted wire in my projects. For embellishments on the "O" ring, I pulled out my coil of 22 gauge twisted wire. For one toggle, one 6" (152mm) piece of 22 gauge wire, folded in half and tightly twisted, should be more than enough to fit inside the toggle frame.

Step 22

Make curves without kinks, which happens with twisted wire, using nylon bending pliers: left to right-Nylon Ring Bending Pliers, Nylon Jaw Deep Bending Pliers, Nylon Bracelet Bending Pliers. Shape a piece for the deeper curve first. Trim and file the ends to fit. Cut and shape a piece longer than needed for the piece across the opening end of the toggle. Trim and file the ends to fit.

Step 23

Since these designs are symmetrical, a dotted line was drawn on the backing to separate the halves. Decide where to place the scrolled wire pieces. Trim and file the wire ends to fit. Notice the scrap piece of twisted wire from Step 22 bent into an upside down "V" that is used as embellishment inside one of the frames.

Step 24

Place small bits of easy paste solder on the backs of the scrolls. Press the scrolls into place inside the frame. Place easy paste solder inside the frame and on the backing and press the twisted wire into the solder and down onto the backing.

Place the piece on a Solderite board or magnesia soldering brick. Heat until the solder flows. Immediately remove the heat. Wait 30 seconds or more before moving the piece to a bench block to cool.

Why not add all the embellishments and solder then? Because this way, the pieces will not move around while other embellishments are "auditioned."

Step 25

The balls on balled wire cannot be pushed together or pulled apart to fit a space. Balled chain is perfect to use as an embellishment on this project. Cut chain to fit the deeper curve first. Then cut chain to fit the curve next to the opening. Remove the chain. Place easy paste solder on the backing where the ball chain will be secured. Press the chain into place. Place the piece on a Solderite board or magnesia soldering brick. Heat until the solder flows. Immediately remove the heat. Wait 30 seconds or more before moving the piece to a bench block to cool.

Step 26

Add balled silver embellishments as desired using easy paste solder. Add balls or a series of balls on either side of the jump ring using easy solder, if desired.

Step 27

When satisfied with the design, place the piece on a Solderite board or magnesia soldering brick. Heat until the solder flows. Immediately remove the heat. Wait 30 seconds or more before moving the piece to a bench block to cool. Use a soft steel brush to burnish the toggle. If any pieces pop off, resolder them in place using a bit more easy paste solder.

Step 28

Pickle, rinse, and dry the piece.

Step 29

Trim excess metal from around the piece. File the edge and inside the opening. The metal points of the backing sheet need to be filed smooth so they do not scratch the skin when worn. Use sanding sponges to smooth the "O" ring back and edges.

Step 30

Using the steel brush on the piece again will bring up a satin shine.

Step 31:

The T-bar

Since I was making lots of T-bars, I folded a 30" (76.5cm) piece of 16 gauge round wire in half and soldered the cut ends together with easy paste solder. After making a tight twist, I ended up with about a foot of usable twisted wire.

If a twisted wire T-bar is not desired, follow the same steps, substituting 12 gauge round wire for the twisted wire.

Step 32

Because short lengths are used and the twisted wire might slide apart if not twisted tightly enough, heat the wire until the surface is very shiny-but not melting-to slightly fuse the twist together.

Step 33

Dig a hole deep enough in a magnesia soldering block that the jump ring hanging from the twisted wire will not touch the bottom of the hole. The hole should be narrow enough that the twisted wire ends will sit on either side and not be in danger of sliding into the hole.

Close the 18 gauge 3.5mm jump ring. For each toggle being made, cut a 1½" piece of twisted wire. Determine the center of the twisted wire and mark with a Sharpie. Place a blob of medium paste solder on the mark. Slide the 3.5mm jump ring on the twisted wire and over the solder, keeping the ring seam up so it will be placed in the solder.

Solder the ring to the twisted wire. Have a solder pick ready. The ring will want to settle into a twisted wire groove. The solder pick can keep the ring in line until the solder flows. The solder will flow up the jump ring seam and out between the twisted wires.

Step 34

Keeping in mind that the jump ring seam is on top of the T-bar, use a flat nose pliers to squish the ring into an oval around the twisted wire. Use sanding pads to clean up the jump ring seam.

Step 35

Use an ultra-fine point retractable Sharpie to mark ½" (scant 13mm) out on either side of the jump ring.

Step 36

Cut excess twisted wire close to the marks. Finish by filing the ends perfectly flat. The miter jig vise works well for this, too.

Step 37

Cut two ¾" pieces of 18 gauge wire. Cut each piece in half and lay the pieces side by side on a soldering surface. Heat until the wire balls up. When cool, file the back sides of the balls flat on a piece of 320 grit sandpaper placed on a bench block.

Step 38

Press the rounded end of a ball into the surface of a magnesia soldering block. Place a blob of easy paste solder on the flat surface of the ball.

Step 39

Grasp the twisted wire just below the jump ring with cross lock tweezers. Hold the twisted wire just above the ball with the paste solder. Heat the two pieces until the solder flows. When the solder flows, press the flat end of the twisted wire to the flat side of the ball. Heat just a tad more, watching to make sure the solder flows. Remove the heat, keeping the two pieces pressed together for a few seconds to make sure the solder solidifies enough to hold the pieces together.

Step 40

Repeat Step 39 with the other end. Place the T-bar on a bench block to cool.

Step 41

Check the end ball connections. Resolder any that come loose.

Step 42

Add an 18 gauge 4.5mm ID jump ring to the T-bar connector ring. Solder closed with easy paste solder.

Step 43

Pickle, rinse, and dry the T-bar

Step 44

If the ball ends are not as round as desired, file and sand them to your liking.

Step 45

Tumble for several hours. If anything comes loose, resolder.

Step 46

Use bracelet bending pliers to give the "O" ring portion of the toggle a gentle curve that will make it sit better on the wrist.

Step 47

Patina can be added now, or after construction of your project. Since most Bali beads have some shine to them, after removing patina from the high areas tumble again for 15 to 20 minutes to highlight the design.

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!