Wire-Link Treasure Bracelet

Skill Level: Advanced

Technique: Wire Weaving

I noticed that a wearer of one of my mosaic-style bracelets liked to "play" with it unconsciously; rubbing the stones and lightly kneading the frame wires, causing the bracelet to become over-worked and eventually to break. That was when I decided to design a less rigid frame with more flexibility for my mosaic-style bracelets. At first I made a three section frame that worked, but then thought to make the design more like a tennis bracelet, allowing me to be able to create small mosaic tiles that link closely to one another, and flow beautifully around the wrist. You can make an all Swarovski Crystal stunner, or any combination of ideas on these wire-link frames.

Materials

• 18- or 20-gauge round half hard wire, 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 feet (for links and hook & eye)
• 24-gauge round dead soft wire, 10 feet minimum
• Variety of small to medium beads (2mm - 6mm) in various shapes

Tools

• Flat nose pliers
• Chain nose pliers
• Round nose pliers
• Wire cutters
• Emery board or File
• Ring mandrel or ring stick (for shaping)
• Ruler
• Marker

Instructions

1. Depending on the wrist size you are designing for, cut seven to eleven pieces of the half hard wire each 2-1/2 inches long for the links. My wrist is 7-1/2" and ten links is perfect for my size, so one or two less links will fit a smaller or more average (6-1/2”) size wrist (once the links and clasp are together you can measure length to check, if necessary). 
   
   On each link wire, measure down from each end and mark at 1 inch, leaving a 1/2 inch space in the center. At each mark, bend the wire ends up 90°, forming an open box.
   
   Use a file or emery board to de-burr the wire ends, and round nose pliers to form an open eye at each end of the box. These are now the connection loops.
   
   Tip: As shown in the photo below, for an assembly line style shortcut, my round nose pliers are 1/2 inch across the box joint. I use them to make both bends at the same time and finish up with my flat nose pliers to even up the angles. I then use my flush cutters to clean up the ends in case one side is noticeably longer and so both ends are flush cut.
   
   
2. Hook each link together and crimp closed with your flat nose pliers.
   
   
3. Create and attach the hook and eye closure to the bracelet frame as described below:
• For the hook: Measure 4" of half hard wire. Find center of wire length and with tip of round nose pliers bend wire in half. With flat nose squeeze end closed with ends running parallel.
• Roll tip at center bend a quarter turn with round nose pliers. This will act as a guide opening to the hook.
• At 1/2" from the rolled outward tip, bend with round nose pliers, forming the hook.
• Trim to even the end wires; flush cut if needed. De-burr the ends.
• Roll the ends with round nose pliers outward to form area for link hooks to join and add to hook end of links.
• For the eye: Measure 1 1/2" of half hard wire. Bend at center with the widest part of round nose pliers forming a semi V or U shape. De-burr ends.
• Form a loop on each end the same as on the links. Add to other end of links.
  




4. Using either a ring mandrel, ring stick, or dowel, gently shape each wire link frame so it will curve around a wrist.
   
   
   
5. Now it is time to create the mosaic designs within the links. Similar to my Dragonskin mosaic design, cut 10" of the 24-gauge wire. Make a small coil and wrap coil end around first link frame and guide the wire to wrap once around the underside on the opposite side of the frame wire.
   
   
6. Add beads across the top wrap once, return wire across back side, wrap once to start new bead row on top.  Repeat until the link is covered with beads and a last wrap across back, trim 1/2", coil end and tuck into link under back wires.
   
   
7. Repeat steps 5 & 6 until each link is covered with a treasure of beads.
   
   
   

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