Classic Bangle Bracelet

To start this project, decide on what size of bangle you are going to be making. Typically, they are sized in small, 7"; medium, 7 ½" and large, 8". If you are going to do the math, measure the diameter of the bracelet, add the thickness of the metal and times by pi (3.14).

Before you make your cut, use a miter jig to true up the end. This will help ensure an accurate cut for better soldering success. If you do not have a miter jig, then use a file and the side of your bench pin to file the end of the wire.

Use your bench pin and a jeweler's saw, with the appropriate sized saw blade, and cut your metal. Cut a bit generously, maybe 1mm extra, to allow for filing. If your wire is not the right gauge, use your rolling mill to thin the metal down.

Before soldering, you do not have to have the bracelet in the round, just bring the ends together until they touch and form a flush butt joint.

If the ends do not align tightly, no light shining through the joint, pop in the miter jig and true up your ends again. Feel the edges for burrs and use a hand file very gently to remove them.

Time to solder! You can brace your bracelet in a third hand with the solder underneath or you can lay it flat, with the solder under the seam... whichever works best for you. Exhaust fan, safety glasses and mask! Safety is so important. Flux. For big metal pieces I use Handy Flux, which contains fluoride and is very bad for you, use your safety mask! Add a big piece of hard solder, but not too much. My suggestion is to use the biggest, hottest torch flame you can make. A small butane torch will not heat the metal sufficiently to do the job. I used a Smith Acetylene/Air torch for this project. A Smith Little Torch would work as well.

Pickle and rinse.

Slide bracelet on the bracelet mandrel and use a rawhide or nylon mallet and form the round into the round shape of a bracelet. Make sure you take it off and reverse it and round again. On a bench block, check for to make sure it is flat, hammer flat if it is not.

Use a half round file and file the seam. File until you have a seamless joint. File the side seams as well. When it comes to the top of the bracelet with the texture. File minimally on top.

Then if you need to adjust the texture, slide it back on the mandrel and texture JUST enough to balance it out.

On your flex shaft, these sanding barrels are amazing for bracelets. Please wear your particulate mask while sanding. Silver dust up your nose or down your lungs is not good for you. Polishing the bangles is an option. There are many ways to get the results you want. Polishing machine, tumbler, polishing pads, buffs and polishing compounds. I like to use polishing papers and pro polish pads.